Naval orange growing only side branches not upright!
ginjj
6 years ago
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johnmerr
6 years agoDenise Becker
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Sunkist Naval Orange Tree
Comments (6)Dittos that Sunkist is the name of the grower's co-operative, not the variety. I believe they grow a lot of Washington, also called Parent Washington, because many of the other varieties came from Parent Washington. There are now varieties that are a little earlier and some that are a little later. And of course the novel CaraCara which gets a little pink color. Most are "sports" where a branch from a certain tree, for what ever reason, just started growing differently, and someone noticed and started propagating it. Parent Washington seems to do this rather freely. So, for best quality/flavor, some say the Fukumoto is the best, and it is an early one. For a late variety, Lane Late is good and well proven. All are very similar fruit, really only very subtle differences. I have: Atwood Desert Fukumoto (early) Lane Late Thompson Improved (early) Parent Washington Cara Cara pink...See MoreWhat should I buy to replace thick skin Wash Naval?
Comments (27)Ginny, Waiting longer, but not too long, should definitely help; how much help depends on the climate. Next year, try sampling two oranges every two weeks starting late Nov. This is an educational step teaching you when to harvest the fruit. Although this can change from year to year depending on climate and care, at least you get a baseline regarding the progression from very acid to ripened sweet. For my area, late Dec is usually the ripest time, but I always go by feel to find them when heavy in addition to sampling. Regarding your trees: Chances are your soil pH will be at least a little high which means the tree can't take up the nutrients it needs -- even if they are in the soil in abundance. The long-term treatment is clear: 1) keep the soil pH around 6.5 2) apply a fertilizer with a ratio *near* 5-1-3 NPK. It must have micro-nutrients labeled on it. 3) once a year apply 1Tbsp/gal Epsom Salts dissolved in warm water (as very few ferts have Magnesium (Mg) in them). If it's an *organic* fertilizer, the NPK ratio can be different and it's probably OK. But citrus use lots of N, hardly any P, and K in about half the rate of N. The second #, P=Phosphorus builds up in the soil and is becoming taboo. There are a few ways of lowering your soil pH, with many good ideas on the net. If you go the Sulfur route, you can apply the sulfur granules once/year when warm in spring at the same time you apply the Epsom salts. As you've done a great job so far answering our questions, you may want more opinions on exactly what the tree is deficient in. If so, take several more photos of the sections that are yellow; take some closeup, some a few feet away. Use your highest resolution and largest image size and upload it to Photobucket (don't post the actual photo here). By examining larger sections of the leaves, we'll know better what you need. As ashley has stated, applying some iron chelate in vinegar water is a simple test to see if iron is all it needs. But honestly it's probably academic anyway, since the care steps I listed above should resolve any issues long-term. We've covered the sweetness topic. Regarding the dryness topic, if you get a year where the majority of them are looking that way, take some pics and lets try to figure it out what happened. As I said earlier, there are some known effects for causing that particular condition: excessive N, lower K, but it can also be caused by excessive watering. It also can happen when they are over-ripe. The internal cells will burst and dry out; in some climates this can happen relatively quickly after their peak ripeness. Chris...See MoreGrowing a Navel Orange from a Branch Cutting
Comments (3)I agree with Mike. I have taken them that size, nicked the bark and placed in rooting hormone. Then planted in moist soil and placed in a tall plastic bag. Works like a mini green house. It can take 2-3 months to develop enough roots to plant after that. Some people use cut off 2 or 3 liter coke bottles for the same purpose. I get about a 30% success rate on rooting citrus cuttings. Rob...See MoreCalomondin Orange growing flowers vs leaves
Comments (19)Sounds like an OK plan to me. Since Vladimir lives in the same zone as you (and a 40 year tree as experience!) I'm sure he'd have much better advice for you than me. I live in a warmer zone (I border 7b & 8a). Some citrus books I've read say the less temperature change for citrus tree to adjust to, the less winter leaf drop (WLD) it will have when bringing it inside, but I'm not an expert on that. I don't think 50 is too early. Last year I moved my citrus inside what I thought was too early, well before the first cold blast, and they did adjust better to indoors than usual, so I may bring them in early this year again. (I also gave them more light). I've let some Calamondins stay out under 40 before with no damage, but where I live the days warm up fairly quickly so they don't have to stay in bitter cold for long. Usually My Calamondin & Owari Mandarins are the last trees I have to bring inside. Having a good sunny window is very important. Sounds like you're all set and I'm sure will do well....See Moreginjj
6 years agojohnmerr
6 years agoDenise Becker
6 years agoginjj
6 years agoDenise Becker
6 years agolast modified: 6 years ago
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