Peat, semi-peat free or totally peat free?
MYAL plantLOVER
4 years ago
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gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
4 years agoMYAL plantLOVER
4 years agoRelated Discussions
To use peat pots or not to use peat pots?
Comments (25)Let me start out by saying I'm no expert, but have been gardening, lets say 60+ years. I love peat pots because of easy plant watering and easy planting. Yes, I use all kinds of little and big solid containers but peat pots let me keep using two words, easy & reliable. This is my approach. Never buy a jiffy peat pot because they are too thick, too short and have no holes for water absorption. There are peat pots out there ½ the thickness of jiffies, aprox an inch deeper and most important they have at least 4 slits around the bottom that go up about ¾ inch. This all leads to easy watering by putting 18 pots in those black plant trays you see everywhere. Put the tray where you want it, put an inch or plus of water in the tray, come back next day to see if top is damp, if not, put more water in tray. Just keep top damp about 50% of the time. One more little item-----is the tray & water level? If not get that level out and make it so. This is nearly always necessary in my state of TN. When planting take your finger and with a little thump the wet bottom will fall off without disturbing the root system..That's it, nothing fancy....See MoreNew lawn - topdressing with compost vs peat moss
Comments (3)>>topdress with compost or peat moss? Either. Compost holds water a touch better, which can actually be a slight disadvantage as it can encourage rot. But it usually doesn't if you restrict yourself to 1/4" absolute maximum, with 1/8" being quite enough. Compost may have a few drifted weed seeds in it that peat won't usually get, but it's nothing significant if the compost was made correctly and stored properly. Peat moss gets the bad rep of repelling water...and it does, but the water drops through to the soil. No harm, no foul, and the peat moss functions as a perfectly good mulch. In your case, if the compost is expensive and the peat moss is free, use the peat moss. >>Also, I'm following these instructions on WikiHow - are they any good? Do. Not. Till. It destroys the natural water channels, injects oxygen into layers where it shouldn't exist, brings up weed seeds stamped 1897 (but are still perfectly viable), and burns off organic matter at a fantastic rate. If you feel you must open the soil surface, use a slit seeder or rake the soil lightly beforehand. Seeds are very, very good at punching through soil we consider hard. Also, do not lime at seeding time. This is an ancient holdover that keeps getting repeated. Lime works in slowly, setting up a very high pH zone around the new grass roots--which want a slightly lower than neutral pH. Also, only lime if a soil test shows the need for it, and only if you know exactly what kind of lime to use and how much. >>And finally, do you recommend fertilizing with alfalfa pellets before seeding? That's what DCHall suggested in his "How do I level my yard?" guide. Sure, go for it. It'll give your new grass something to nibble on when it's young. If you can't get alfalfa, soybean meal, cottonseed meal, corn meal (or cracked corn but I don't recommend that on a new seed bed as it attracts birds), or Milorganite (I'm not sure if you have that in Poland or what they call it--it's a processed biosolid) are all great. Don't bother with a synthetic fertilizer. It's a flash in the pan and will be long gone before the grass grows enough to use it. That's for later if you want to go the synthetic route....See MoreCoco Peat, Coco Coir, Peat Moss...where?
Comments (19)I also have found coco coir to be excellent for seed germination. Coir is going to be superior peat for this for the same reason a paper towel is. It actually allows the seed to stay consistently moist. Peat dries out faster and doesn't have a reliable pH. You also don't have to worry about a bunch of sticks with coco. No nutes necessary for germination. The seed has its own food. Problem is, you have to transplant pretty soon or use liquid fertilizer if you use a medium without nutrients. I make soil blocks with a coco coir/vermicast/sifted compost mix so I don't have to worry about a quick transplant. Coco also won't mold or grow moss and algae on it like peat moss does. At least not until you put nutrients on it. It's just you adding the nutes instead of a pump. There is a very good reason peat isn't used for hydroponics but coco is. Coco is more stable, nearly all brands desalinate as they know the hydro industry is their number 1 customer - so normally no worries concerning salt, and it it's great for aeration because it doesn't break down as fast as peat moss. In fact, I sterilize, desalinate, and reuse the coco for my hydro plants. It lasts at least 3 growing cycles of tomatoes and many more for lettuce (shorter cycles is why). For anyone thinking, "But I don't do hydro," keep in mind that potted plants that require liquid fertilizer is hydro. It's just you adding the nutes instead of a pump. I hold no illusion that coco is more environmentally friendly. I did, because I fell for the media hype. But the reality is otherwise and I now definitely recognize this....See MoreSkip the vermiculite and peat moss?
Comments (8)I think the vermiculite is really to help retain moisture, especially in raised beds ( more exposure to wind drying ) which are on hard bases ( no water available to draw up ). I'd try it out for a season and see how you go - if you're heaping beds on top of existing soil I reckon the above advise will see you right. I've never had a problem with just compost. Best of luck. D...See Moregardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
4 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
4 years agoMYAL plantLOVER
4 years agoMYAL plantLOVER
4 years agorhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7
4 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
4 years agoannpat
4 years agoannpat
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoMYAL plantLOVER
4 years agoMYAL plantLOVER
4 years agoannpat
4 years agolast modified: 4 years ago
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