JaG, unless dormant oils are combined with other products - sulphur or copper/lime solutions are common - they DO NOT address disease issues. The link you provided contradicts what you are saying ;) It plainly says horticultural oils have been found effective against some fungal pathogens. It also didn't address dormant oils, just horticultural oils (unless my skim reading missed it). Applying a dormant oil is different than using a lighter weight oil during the growing season. The purpose of a dormant oil is that it is heavier and denies oxygen entry through itself. Anything overwintering on/in the tree that requires oxygen will likely die. Such an application can't be made during the growing season without major damage to the tree because the tree needs oxygen during the growing season, but can survive for awhile without it when fully dormant. The article did address the use of horticultural oils on dormant trees very briefly in that it mentioned it can delay bud break/blooming. This would be very desirable in areas where the springs can go from warm to sub freezing overnight. It's not relevant to the OP, but it does point to the value of using dormant oil sprays as part of a routine program rather than waiting to ID a specific pathogen. Every source I have ever read finds dormant oils applied during the dormant stage to be effective against many insects, their eggs, larvae as well as many fungal pathogens overwintering even as spores in the bark/buds. I don't really see a down side to routine applications during the dormant season. The link you provided didn't address any.

thanks for all the support...I guess I'm not going to return the plants, my back is quickly improving...so a little at a time and I'll be ok... I do have a few additional questions though from the comments above "ghost" growth just want to make sure I"m not taking something off that would otherwise be ok...what I'm seeing is these little whitish colored shoots (for lack of a more technical name) now have leaves at the ends? is this a premature stem or just some weird mutant growth? Second question...do the roses need to be inside while soaking? I have several rain filled buckets out back (that I would not be able to move in) that I could put them in? But they'd be outside... I also do have several big tub with rope handles, they are very large, and could probably fit in a few of those...but do I just soak the roots or the whole plant? any pros or cons to this practice of soaking the whole thing?

Forget you ever THOUGHT of Linseed oil!!! It's a very slow-drying oil, and doesn't do well outside for any length of time. I'd use it ONLY for low-priority items that can easily be moved inside often....small tables, carvings, etc. My Redwood deck is 12+ yrs.-old. * This is in Fargo, ND...where temps go from -35 to a couple of 95-100 deg. readings every year. * Humidity is all over the map too. * Physical orientation: West side, Zero shade, 6' off ground. Full sun from 11am. * I had first applied Penofin back in '96 when it was new. * Since about 2000, I've been using SIKKENS SRD Semi-transparent. It's all I've used since. NOTE: Redwood is soft, but VERY dimensionally stable outside. * You WILL have to sand horizontal surfaces every 3-4 years to keep that "new" look. * I've got lots of pics of my deck, if I can just find them on my computer! (You can maybe search on the 'Decks' forum too. I've posted some pics there too...) * I sanded all my spindles last summer, along with sanding between them where they attach to the 2x8 Redwood skirtboards. THAT was fun...but had to be done. * No matter HOW GOOD a stain is...it can't do everything. * Periodic sanding gives you NEW wood again, that will ABSORB & HOLD new stains evenly. * Sanding removes degraded/crumpled wood fibers, exposing more rigid/open structures. * Cleaning is important too...BUT...doesn't do ANYTHING to remove many old fibers. Sooooo...my deck stain of choice...Sikkens SRD. I LOVE the Redwood #089 color. If our store dropped Sikkens...people up here would HANG us!! (I went through almost THREE 5G pails when I did our fence last summer...@ $170 per 5-er. Gallons are ~ $35/gal.) On below link, check the "Application Guide" info. too. Faron Here is a link that might be useful: Sikkens website, SRD page.

Thanks for getting back to me! I am in Bedford, Mass-- Zone 5B or 6A. The Asian pear is a 2-in-1 graft from gurneys.com: Chojuro and "Drippin' Honey": link The apricot is an "Adirondack Gold" from St. Lawrence Nurseries: link I don't mind spraying more frequently-- I will be outside watering anyway; it is relaxing after work. And I am not religious about being completely organic, but I would rather not kill the honeybees that pollinate my garden. And my small kids play unattended near the garden and trees. Gardens Alive, which is owned by the same people that own Gurney's, has a kit of fertilizers and sprays here: http://www.gardensalive.com/product/perfect-fruit-spray-kit-for-fruit-trees/ St. Lawrence has some general tips on organic spraying but I would like more details. For example they mention both oil and sulfur sprays but don't describe when or why to use either one. Would love to get your thoughts on either or both. Thanks very much!