Definitely want to see answer to this. Soon to be in same situation and don't want the harsh stuff on my trees

I have to say when I started growing fruit trees, I had the same idea as you do (and almost all newbies). Low or no spray. No chemicals, etc. Then after the few years, reality set in.

If there is such thing, everyone would do it by now.

If you want to do totally organic, you need to compromise like not worrying that most of your fruit may look unappealing, your trees may have few leave that look "normal" and sometimes, you won't get any fruit because bugs, and disease get to them sooner than you and they get them everytime.

What varities of Asian pear and Apricot did you buy.

Where are you in New England. Location/zone is very important to know.

I am in Boston area (by Waltham). Haven't planted the fruit trees yet. Are of my yard that is empty now, since two huge pine trees have been removed by previous owner, so trying to figure out what useful trees I can put there.

Thanks for getting back to me! I am in Bedford, Mass-- Zone 5B or 6A.

The Asian pear is a 2-in-1 graft from gurneys.com: Chojuro and "Drippin' Honey": link

The apricot is an "Adirondack Gold" from St. Lawrence Nurseries: link

I don't mind spraying more frequently-- I will be outside watering anyway; it is relaxing after work. And I am not religious about being completely organic, but I would rather not kill the honeybees that pollinate my garden. And my small kids play unattended near the garden and trees.

Gardens Alive, which is owned by the same people that own Gurney's, has a kit of fertilizers and sprays here: http://www.gardensalive.com/product/perfect-fruit-spray-kit-for-fruit-trees/

St. Lawrence has some general tips on organic spraying but I would like more details. For example they mention both oil and sulfur sprays but don't describe when or why to use either one.

Would love to get your thoughts on either or both. Thanks very much!

Mike, if you are in Bedford, not New Bedford, you are in zone 6, at the border of 6a and 6 b. A few years back, plant hardiness zone got updated. Most get half a zone warmer. I live near Worcester so I moved up from zone 5 b to 6a.

Cannot comment on Garden Alive products. I have never used it. Your Asian pear should grow with almost no spray. Once it starts fruiting, you will find out about coddling moth and oriental fruit moth. You have plenty of time to read old threads about these two nemesis of fruit growers.

I do not have apricot. I think some varieties may need cross pollination. You may want to check that. Fruit trees in our area needs to be planted in full sun.

Thanks for the update on the zone. Though it did get down to -12 degrees here this winter. The trees are in full sun, and St. Lawrence said the Adirondack Gold apricot, unlike the wild Manchurian apricot, does not need a pollinator.

Maybe the Asian pear should grow with almost no spray, but something sure ate it up last year. Some leaves curled and fell off and some branches turned black. New leaves evenually grew on most but not all branches. Any guesses what the problem was and what to do about it?

Thanks for the pointer to universities. I found a spraying schedule from UNH: link

It says when to spray, but not what. But I am getting closer.

Mike,

After posting last reply, I think the blackened leaves could be pear psylla. If you take picture and post it, it will help for people to better diagnose it.

i do not have serious case of blackened leaves so I do not treat it. Your case sounded more serious, unfortunately.

mike,

"Some leaves curled and fell off and some branches turned black. " Somehow, I read that the leaves turned black. That's why I thought it could be psylla but if the branches turned black, you should look up pictures of fire blight. Some Asian pears are susceptible to it.

It looks like streptomycin is a chemical for it. Spring it in the spring when leaves are out but before the disease starts attacking your trees.

It's hard to say what to spray and when because we don't know what the causes. If it's psylla, you spray with dormant oil before bud break (around now) and may need to spray insecticide after bud breaks.

Look up Penn State Extension service. I like their literature on fruit trees for home orchardists.