4' would be fine...and the beauty is that 'Blue Chip' is an excellent low-growing sprawler...I have about 4 of them tucked in spaces around roses where I need a splash of blue/purple. They bloom all summer/fall and I found they are very winter hardy. Just a haircut in the Spring and they start blooming. Just a hint, though...they are lazy and might take awhile to bud out...so don't be too hasty to yank them if you think they've died. I had one that I thought didn't make it through the Winter but I over-pruned it in the Spring and it took it awhile to bounce back. It was late June/July before it woke up and then it went bonkers and started growing like its siblings to make up for lost time. An added bonus is the beautiful butterflies that will haunt your garden...

Point taken about how not all of California is a Mediterranean climate, certainly there are deserts and high elevation mountains as well, which are not classic Mediterranean climates, but are still influenced by one. As you noted, the OP is located in a part of southern California that is squarely within a year round growing climate, so I was directing my comments to her situation. On the other hand, even interior southern California mountains and the Sierras are more similar in rainfall patterns to coastal Mediterranean conditions; we don't get the bone chilling winter cold nor do we get the summer rainfall, but instead just less frequent and less intense thundershowers. So the point I am making with regards to plants selected for New Mexico conditions, is that they won't always be the best fit. As to the need to cultivate soil to an 18 inch depth, I still think it is an outmoded approach, and would only advise a client to even consider it if they knew they had caliche or heavily compacted subsoil due to home construction, and would then suggest they do some deep drilling to break through the caliche,(for deep rooted trees only), or have the soil ripped if this is feasible to improve the drainage and they can afford it. Otherwise I think it would be much more efficient to mound the topography to get the required drainage and soil depth, and use the top dressing method of organic mulches and soil amendments to be renewed every few years, and let the soil bacteria and earthworms do the work of creating a better soil profile. As Al also alludes, it is much easier to plant smaller plants at the right time of year to work with the soil conditions, rather than force the issue and try to establish new plants in bone dry clay soils in the middle of summer; in my opinion it is just foolish to think they will get off to as good a start as anything planted to work with our rainy season and cooler weather. Not to mention that it will take a lot more water and regular attention to establish a new native plant planted outside the rainy season window of planting opportunity. If you want to till the soil to an 18 inch depth, and have the energy to take this on, feel free to continue with your approach. My take is that there are easier ways to landscape that work just as well, and take less resources of personal manual energy or mechanical energy to accomplish. I don't think there is any question that late fall into winter planting, no soil amendment or cultivation, planting out from smallest size possible and mulching heavily and supplemental watering as required the first several years can accomplish the miracle of catching up to larger sizes,(0ften as quickly as 3 years), with more intensive manipulation of the soils and more water for things planted outside the winter rainy season, and this process more closely replicates how nature actually does it in California situations. Now if you are talking about plants that require more water retentive yet also well drained soils, additional depth of soil amending may make sense, but to generalize and say that it is always better or required is not necessarily true. It is often illuminating to find that plants from one part of the world where they are subjected to seasonal flooding may in fact prove to be fairly good candidates for rather drought tolerant plantings here in California. A couple of examples from South Afica come to mind; such as various species of Kniphofia/Poker Plants, or Restios such as Chondropetalum tectorum. Plants are often more adaptable to situations outside the norm of their actual habitat than we would expect, but it also happens that there are others which are not...

Marie, I'm super glad you liked everything. Tried to pick a few things off your list that you really wanted. I fell in love with those earrings! Some of that candy IS FOR YOUR DAUGHTER...PUT AWAY THE 2ND BOX OF MALTED MILK EGGS AND NO ONE WILL GET HURT! LOL I hope the Ramapo does well for you.

Oh my, I didn't notice how much and how many ideas many have here since ,y last post yesterday! Rina, you could never hijack mine, in fact I would of love to have seen many of your plants here! I shall have to take a peek at yours..The Solena and Denthor I have one and waiting on the other. I will share with you once I get the other Rina)) If you posted your jades I will for sure go look. You know me and my Jades..What about Maruba? Do you have one of those? Looks to me you are nuts about Jades too!! I love it and your cat fits right in with all the color. Beautiful. What's that very red plant? beautiful.. Rockdale, you have ben to Logees?? I love that place. I am getting your package ready along with Rob's for the beginning of next week). Rockdale I love that plant. Yes, let's talk )) Stupidlazydga, I'll bet you spend most of your days in that little place of warmth and sun!! I would for sure and what a perfect spot for lots of succulents a coffee on a sunny cold day! Is that an Orange tree you have there and Hoya? Many plants of which I love and I am growing. In fact, several different rare Hoya and about 35 citrus trees....Nice Well looking up further, wow!! Looks like you have plenty of room for succulents and many others, more room than my loan Home Depot..Great job and very nice.