Is it reasonable to have an estimate on the total cabinet cost before committing? I tend to think so :) How each place does it depends. I like to offer "in this brand, this layout, with these options, in the style you selected will be this (I aim just a tad high to cover since it is nicer to finish low) and not less than this. I know that some higher end outfits will just do a ball park and no design without a layout. I am A) a lousy guesser; B) think you should know what you are spending and have some idea of what we do, how we work-IOW what you are buying. New build: So the KD would draw up a preliminary design ... then come in to physically measure /verify details once the house is "enclosed" ... and at that point the design is finalized /order is placed? Depends on the extent of the build and type of construction and the brands lead time. I always measure when the framing is done to at least double check for windows and electric/machanicals. I always check after the rock is in just to be sure. Occasionally something specified has been moved (like lights). Then we order. Typically the "design has been finalized already" final measures are a double check and should only require a tweak at most. For new construction or major additions I like to have input prior to final plans to make sure what you want will work. Often in conjunction with an architect or builder (so long as there is a retainer). Some will do that , some won't. I prefer it for a lot of reasons-aside from fitting what you want, it avoids last minute budget overages requiring dumping design work when the client has spent too much elsewhere. Does the KD also come in the day the cabinets are installed? I kind of don't see the point in that, but maybe I'm missing something. That depends but I usually do to make sure everything is clear. The better I know the installer the less important it is that I am there the first day. (but I do offer to assist with the on site layout if they like) Getting there early in an install prevents problems, sometimes things that I worry about can be checked, if there are any problems we can get replacements faster. My approach is not common. I do it in part as self defense, A) have had bad things happen when not looking B) maintain the relationship with the client. More I do it since I sell kitchens, not boxes. You bought a kitchen, part of my job is to make sure you get it.

It's no doubt too late for the OP and I don't know what the cost difference is, but I'll second what rwiegand said. All the 1950's cookie cutter tract homes in my subdivision have plaster walls and ceilings (plaster board, not wood lath) and they look light years ahead of the drywall in the homes (some custom) of friends which were built in the 80's up to the 2000's. The standard surface in the Chicago area is a smooth finish without texture although popcorn ceilings were popular for time a few decades back. A couple of years ago, one bedroom ceiling developed a narrow settling crack about 5' long. I called in a plasterer and nearly had a heart attack when he got to work by undercutting the crack. He explained what he was doing even though it looked way worse. I was skeptical but it turned out great. One coat of primer and then I repainted the entire ceiling, one coat and it's impossible to tell where the crack was or the large groove he initially made into the ceiling. And I don't paint with the 'ceiling white' color that 'hides imperfections'. I use flat super-white-white on all my ceilings. I forgot the exact numbers he told me, but the plasterer's union in the Chicago area is a tiny fraction of the size it was 40 years ago. He was from a plastering company (not a side job) and their web site shows examples of their beautiful work - all the new stuff being in very high-end homes. In many ways, their repair work is even more amazing - repairing long stretches of ornate plaster cornices without a hint of where original ends and new begins.

The best specification document in the world won't save you from an incompetent or dishonest contractor. It can, however be a valuable communication tool to get on the same page with a good contractor. If you write down that you want a level 5 drywall finish and provide a link to or the whole definition what that means you're less likely to end up with a level 3 finish, and if you do you have a leg to stand on in subsequent negotiations. It also leads to the "I can do that but it will cost you $xxx. are you sure?" conversation, which can be very helpful in managing the budget. We did a lot of extra air sealing and insulation in our last build; work that is not typical here yet. We spec'd details on the drawings and included written descriptions in our spec sheet, including exact products. Our contractor appreciated that we had done the research, it also let him off the hook to some extent because he just had to follow the prescription rather than meet some perhaps unattainable performance standard. We made it clear that we were very open to better ideas and better products, but the spec served as a starting point and changes were the result of discussion not arbitrary whims. For many things simply stating that a specific product be used and that it be installed according to the manufacturers instructions or to an industry group standard is sufficient-- you don't' need to incorporate 100 pages of tile guide. Although I've managed commercial construction projects with 2000 page spec documents detailing absolutely every last detail, I don't think that's necessary or desirable in residential construction, and may be counterproductive. Most people won't read it. I focus on things that matter to me that may or may not happen by default. I don't ask for a specific species of 2x4, nor specify which brand of plaster is used, I do say where I want stainless fasteners, what kind of rain screen I want, and where I want extra blocking in the walls to hang cabinets. All plumbing and lighting fixtures, tile, flooring, paint, etc are specified by exact brand and part number. I'm happy to let the plumber use the drain pipe of his choice.

Hello. Fair enough that is good question. I will just point out a few things to consider for yourself to possibly help you make an informed decision on this matter. 1) I would not recommend you have them just spray the walls. Here is why. Firstly, I like to see the paint being worked into the surface with a roller rather than just sitting on top with it being sprayed on. This is especially true for primer. A level 5 finish will have so much drywall dust on it the primer really needs to be worked into the surface with backrolling after spraying or just by rolling on the primer. Why you may ask.......for proper adhesion is the most important reason. 2) Spraying without back rolling - I am not a big fan of this procedure. Here's why. Walls just sprayed will not touch up well. One will not be able to match the look of a sprayed surface with a roller. Its just not possible. Spraying isn't really the most efficient way of doing a job always. It's great for emty unfinished homes with no flooring or furniture but just not effective for places with flooring or furniture and with the time spent covering things and masking off floors and ceilings paint could be going on the walls by brush and roller. In lived in spaces spraying is too messy having overspray floating around making things very dusty. 3) Finishes While spraying looks great on trim and doors it is my opinion is doesn't look great on walls. It has more sheen (is more shiny) when sprayed with no rolling. The surface just sprayed will be less wipable and durable as mentioned above with the adhesion issues that can occur with spraying only. Great finishes can also be made by doing things by hand (meaning a brush and roller rather than spray equipment). It just takes some knowledge and skill. Things like using a paint that is good quality, using a a high quality roller sleeves, and using good techniques in applying the paint and backrolling. One could also use a roller sleeve with less nap (nap is the length of the fibres on the roller sleeve. The shorter the nap the less stipple that should be left. An example would be that a 10mm roller sleeve with leave a tighter stipple than a 20mm sleeve). I like 12mm or 13mm sleeves for walls. With these things in place and a good tradesman the final results and look should leave you very happy. I hope this helped. If you have any further questions let me know and I will give you my thoughts.