I'm going to play devil's advocate here and also try to fill some holes in your story. This whole thing could have certainly been handled better, for both parties. It was an unfortunate mistake on their part, but would you rather they'd gotten it done faster with the wrong wood? Everyone makes mistakes. If I was faced with a potential 4 week delay without a stove I'd go to a used appliance store the first day, buy a cheap stove, bring it home, use it, then donate it later. In a 3 to 4 week period it's not unreasonable to think the furniture situation could have been remedied to make your lot more palatable. You could have prevailed on the floor man to set up your rooms and he would have likely complied. Now let me address the 48 days vs. 7 to 10 days. Where did the 7 to 10 day timeframe originate? It sounds implausible, at least the way I do floors. When the proper floor arrived, how soon was it installed? How long did it take to install? Did they start sanding and finishing right away? How many square feet of flooring was there to sand and finish? What type of finish was used. Answers to these questions will determine how long it really should have taken. Most of this is really pointless at this point because as the tired saying goes, it is what it is. From a retailer's perspective, if you didn't pay me, I'd lien your house. Once I liened your house (which takes my time and costs money) I'd be far less willing to provide any price concession. I would suggest you be proactive to make a settlement. The time you lost is water under the bridge but the floor finish is a real issue. Ask the retailer how much he would charge you to sand and finish the floor and suggest he deduct that amount from the bill. Tell him that in the future, you'd expect him to do the job for that amount of money, to keep him honest. In fact, make him give you a written estimate with no expiration date. I've done that in the past when something didn't turn out well and there was no time to re-do the job. Contact another reputable finisher for a quote so you can compare. Or get the other quote and deduct it from the invoice. PLEASE, PLEASE don't burden another finisher with a long tale of woe. While I might derive a little schadenfreude from hearing of the shortcomings of one of my rivals, I don't want to get the impression that a potential customer will be difficult to work for. Someone who tells me that a 7 day job took 48 days doesn't come across as reasonable when I know that it's not a 7 day job. Keep it short and simple.

Kaya the thing that turns Farmhouse or Modern Farmhouse into Industrial Farmhouse are components like heavier metals, metal trimmed out furniture with rivets, heavy beams, pulleys or industrial style wheels on furniture factory style light fixtures (your island pendents) etc. The term can be thought of this way. It is basically an old factory that is turned into housing but farm style added. If that makes sense. Exposed brick can be one, but this goes with several decor styles so I wouldnt want you to think , I love exposed brick that means I like industrial. I may not be describing this well so I googled definition and they say what I am but better LOL "Industrial farmhouse style combines comfortable and welcoming farmhouseatmosphere with the edgy, rugged lines of industrial style. Traditional industrial style is based on the concept of living in a factory or warehouse setting—picture a modernloft apartment in a big city." Some photos here rivets on hood, barn door, metal pendents, barstools, weathered island here exposed air ducts, island, lighting, windows and painted brick walls here metal and exposed beams, weathered brick wall, concrete island Here hood, weathered walls, heavy beamed island here weathered beams, metal trimmed weathered island, pendents, weathered flooring Hope this helps

If you're wanting a more rustic or mountain cabin look, you could use cedar with a natural wood finish but most country porches ended up being painted white. The posts are not larger than 6"x6" and many end up being smaller and round and more ornate with white railing (though I prefer the plain 6"x6" myself). Like these posts: http://acountryfarmhouse.blogspot.com/2012/06/our-front-steps-and-walkway.html You could extend the depth of your porch so that the overhang of the front of the porch roof extends to be even or nearly even with the two story left wing of the home and do consider a concrete porch floor-- it will last a lot longer. You create a block foundation/form, fill in with hard packed dirt and then pour a 6" floor that slightly overhangs the blocks ... which you can face with brick or stone. Then you can use the same brick or stone to enhance the curb appeal of your home and its new entry door. With the new door, showcase it with some great brick or stone steps at least as wide as the door. Since you need only a few steps and have a wall on the left side of the porch, consider starting the steps across from the front door so they are covered with the deeper porch roof and have the front of the bottom step even with the front of the front porch, adding a brick or stone wall between steps and the porch to the right of the steps that can be usable as a railing ... in lieu of adding an actual railing. On the right side of the porch consider adding a "gazebo" feature -- there are different kinds of roof designs you can use if you don't want to just use a hip roof corner -- and have the front porch wrap around that right front corner of the house at least enough to create the wider gazebo feature and add steps leading from the porch toward the back yard. https://www.pinterest.com/pin/112730796896550817/ If you're wanting rustic or mountain, you could use cedar with a natural wood finish but most country porches ended up being painted white. Know your local building codes. You may be required to have a railing or wall depending upon the height of the top of your porch floor. Depending upon the building codes and whether you have small children that actually need a rail ,,, since your porch is not that high off the ground, and especially if you add depth to the porch so there is less likely to be people bumping into each other knocking each other off the porch, you might consider just adding a hedge in front of the porch rather than replacing the railing. Alternately, if you do decide on a concrete floor with the front faced with brick or stone, you could create a brick or stone "railing" and even have it be able to double as seating or a wall usable for a plant stand for your favorite flower pots..

Hi mike_home, My husband and I had thought of your solution from the very beginning of our basement reno! Everytime we ask a HVAC company to do just install some vents in the basement ceiling they try and sell us a split system or a new A/C system altogether. The cost is always around $10,000. If we could only find someone who does HVAC work that would do that for us our problem would be solved. Yes, our furnace is located in the basement and the separate forced air A/C system is located in the attic. Our home is a Ranch style so the ductwork (is that the same as supply vents?) does not have far to travel. Our basement isn't that hot in the summer so we don't need much extra A/C/. It's so frustrating. Thanks so much for your valuable input! We are also in Central NJ, do you have someone that you could recommend?