Problem solved! I wanted to thank you dadoes for your help. I feel a bit ashamed for letting this get out of control and for not opening my eyes when I had the tub out of the machine. The crud built up on the outside of the drum was so thick that it had slowly blocked the slits in the drum. Thus, much of the water on the rinse and spin cycles was trapped in the drum with the clothes. This cause out of balance problem, caused the machine to sense problems due to too much weight (?), and kept the clothes wet. I fashioned a piece of plastic to act as the lid plunger and was able to run the machine without the lid. As the machine stopped spinning, I could see water slosh down the side of the was tub and settle in the bottom of the tub. The first picture shows the tub blocked by the crud. The second picture (next message) shows the slits in the tub cleaned after using a 3000 psi power washer with 0 degree tip! I use this setup to blast commercial crab pots clean. Notice it still was unable to clean the calcified crud from the stainless tub. Any suggestions as to what I can use to soften this crud so that I could power wash it clean?

Softener Rinse light indicates Hot Bowl Flag ... meaning a warm or hot wash has not yet been followed by a cold rinse as per the normal operational sequence. Max spin speed is restricted to medium (700 RPM) until a cold rinse occurs. During normal operation the computer automatically sets Hot Bowl during wash fill (unless the fill is cold), then clears it after the rinse. Pressing the Options button in Diagnostics manually turns the flag on or off. Low Water Level light indicates Restart mode ... meaning if a non-fatal fault occurs, the machine will attempt to continue the cycle. A fatal fault will trigger if the error condition continues to occur several times in succession. Water Level Down button toggles Restart on/off. Restart is normally enabled, but can be disabled for diagnostic purposes so an error condition will trigger a fatal fault immediately, which makes it easier to find a problem. You might turn off Restart mode, press Power to exit diagnostics, then immediately run a Regular cycle to check if an error occurs and triggers a fault display. You can go back into diagnostics to check what is the fault code ... just don't unplug the power cord first. Unplugging and replugging resets Restart mode back on. The diverter could be electrically bad. Try testing the diverter. - Get into diagnostics. - Press Delicate cycle to turn on the diverter (takes about 2 mins for it to shift modes) - While waiting, press Wash Temp Down (or Up, cold or hot water) to fill some water into the tub, just enough to see it coming about halfway up on the agitator base. Turn off the water flow when there's enough. Actually, check both hot and cold to make sure both valves work. - Press Regular cycle button to turn on the pump. I suggest waiting a full 3 mins after pressing Delicate above until turning on the pump, just to be sure the diverter had time to shift. There's no indication on the panel when it shifts. - With the pump running and the diverter on, water should shower out of the recirculation port at right/rear of the tub cover, and none from the drain hose. - Press Regular & Delicate to turn off the pump & diverter - Wait at least 3 mins, 4 mins might be better, for the diverter to shift again. - Press Regular again to run the pump. Water should run out the drain hose and none from the recirculation port. - If in either case water flows where it shouldn't, then the diverter may be broken or electrically bad. Note: Medium Water Level light indicates Recycle mode, which makes the machine run the selected cycle repeatedly from start to finish. Water Level Up button toggles it. Recycle is normally off. Can be enabled for diagnostic purposes to make the machine run continuously / repeatedly through a cycle to find a fault that doesn't occur on every run. Unplugging the power cord for 30 seconds turns Recycle off (and Restart on), or both can be toggled manually.

Electrical problems (something zapping the board) is not the same as a physical problem (diverter clogged with debris). The only way to know if the pump is within spec on electrical characteristics is by checking it with a meter. Having proper tools when electronics is involved is part-and-parcel of working on the machine. Alternatively, you can try running it on a test electric cord (CAREFUL!) to see it runs OK for a while or overheats and shuts off. The pump motor windings should be a reddish/copper color. Take the plastic cover off, is there any charring/discoloration evident? A burned odor to it? An IWL16 shouldn't be old enough to have bad bearings, but I suppose anything can happen. Rotating the basket by hand should reveal if there's any undue physical resistance or jamming. There'll be a slight and rapid cogging feel when the machine is plugged in (even if turned off) from the magnets in the motor but of course it shouldn't bind. Unplug the machine and spin the basket VERY slowly, it'll turn freely ... spin it FASTER and the magnets will grab as a brake. You can also remove the SmartDrive rotor to examine the motor windings for obvious damage. Unscrew the large spiral nut, the rotor will back itself off the shaft and stator. The magnets are STRONG so keep stray metal objects away from it, and be careful when setting the rotor back in place to not pinch a finger.

The agitator is bolted directly to the drive shaft and turns as per the motor's rotation (or oscillation). The agitator is always driven by the motor's rotation, whether during agitation or spin. The inner basket sits atop a clutch cog under the agitator. When the tub fills with water, air caught under the basket base causes it to float upward slightly and disengage from the cog so the agitator can oscillate separately (the basket free-spins during agitation). The basket settles back down on the drive cog for spin when the water drains. Turning the agitator by hand when the machine is empty of water should rotate the basket with it. Removing the agitator -- Take off the softener dispenser/cap at the top. Reach down inside and unscrew the hold-down nut. The agitator then lifts up and out (unless it's stuck). Turn it over and examine whether the keyed socket that fits on the shaft is perhaps worn or cracked. Don't overtighten the plastic hold-down nut when replacing the agitator to avoid stripping the threads.