Large gap between crown on upper cabinets and ceiling
jpen9784
4 years ago
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live_wire_oak
4 years agoPatricia Colwell Consulting
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Cabinet designer screw up??? Crown doesn't cover gap
Comments (16)Thanks to all who have responded. I was unable to get back to my computer since I posted so I will reply to all questions / suggestions in this response. Here goes: To weedmeister: tile goes down lastâ¦after the cabinets are in. As you will (or already have read), many of the pro installers will install plywood or some suitable material over the Hardie board to bring the cabinet install up to finished floor height. To monkeymo: You are correct. The solution is to use a stacked molding. My KD did not provide a crown diagram (she had to leave town on family business right after we ordered cabinets). When we met with our âÂÂnewâ KD yesterday to address this issue, she provided the crown diagram which showed the stacked molding. Our order did include the Single Bead Molding which is attached to blocking. As âÂÂlive wire oakâ remarked, the crown is installed on top of the SBM. Nonetheless, the crown that was ordered would still not have reached the ceiling. By ordering the Large Crown Molding (LCM8) we will get the necessary height. To live wire oak: You are correct: this is my first kitchen install and it has been very challengingâ¦and will likely continue to be. However, I will get it done and it will look great! And, yes, had I been aware of the stacked molding that was intended to be used, that would have covered one base. The crown originally ordered has a vertical height of 1 15/16; the LCM8 that we will be ordering to replace it has a vertical height of 2 13/16 so all will be fine. Several installers, including the one that works with HD to install cabinets, have told me that installing the cabinet bases on the Hardie board is perfectly OK. I know where they live so IâÂÂm sure they werenâÂÂt setting me up. :-) To lisa1 517: Thanks for your suggestion. You, too, are right on the money. Stacked it is! To kitchenkrazed09: All I can tell you is that my cabinet, including the base, is 93â tall. Kraftmaid calls it an OC302493. The base is 4 ýâ and the cabinet is 88 1/2â (the front of the cabinet âÂÂoverlapsâ the base by ýâ so it appears to be 89 (does that count for 90âÂÂ? ;-) ). To Buehl: Thanks for your picture. The link I posted and referred to in my post is of the same picture. Not trying to be a smart a**, I just didnâÂÂt want that look with painted cabinets. It really looks nice with your stained installation, however! Once again, I sure appreciate everyoneâÂÂs comments, etc. This forumâÂÂs members are a tremendous resource! I will be posting some pictures as my installation progresses....See MoreWhat to do with 13'' gap between cabinets and ceiling?
Comments (19)So true, Chinchette. It's on point that our cabinets are white, flowing into a creamy white ceiling and cream walls. Heaviness just wasn't an issue. I might well have stopped the cabinets short of the ceiling if I had dark ones, especially if there was a definite contrast with adjacent surfaces. Even something this minor leaves SO much to personal preference and realities. I'm short and use a stepstool just to reach standard shelves. Okay that far, even if getting it out is a drag. I only wish...Marcolo, I think, had suggested climbable cabinets a couple of years ago. I might really have done something with that. I've spent my life climbing store shelves when the staff is hiding and really appreciate ones with good handholds. :) I might have stepped back the middle unit, with a short 15" base flush with the rest, another 15"er on that set back 4", which would give me a step to my very sturdy niche counter (that extra plywood raising the uppers). All that'd be needed would be some "decorative" details to hold onto. Sigh for what might have been... But, back to it--I do also have a basement with a room for my freezer, pantry, etc., and I already knew I'd always prefer strolling downstairs to grab something from a shelf there to climbing a tall stool in the kitchen. Lack of real need = lack of desire and empty shelves for me. Anne, seeing that a nice shadow feature is your own first choice, I say go for it. It adds depth and architectural interest, and just happens to be less popular than to the ceiling at this particular point in time. So what? I considered doing that for some time before choosing against it because I'm a bad housekeeper. By the time I get up there, it's always an unpleasant experience. BTW, if I went that way, I had decided I would box in most of the empty area with a vertical board set back several inches from the front of the cabinets, whatever depth needed so it wouldn't be noticeable, hopefully only 6" or so, so only a strip that deep would need wiping off. I also intended to top the cabinets with plywood to the height of the top of the crown molding so that, even if the molding looked as if it extended a bit above the top of the cabinets it was really a flush surface for easy cleaning. Regarding your question about the plywood between our base and upper-to-ceiling pantry cabinets, it's there to raise the uppers closer to the ceiling, but also to create a shadow line down there to break up the vertical surface. I had to keep it shallow for aisle-width reasons, so the top molding was also kept shallow to be in conformity. What is up is stock molding and a bit deeper, but you can't tell....See More6 inch upper cabinet gap - what to do?
Comments (9)Sorry for my late response - it's been a crazy week shuttling back and forth with the remodel going on. Just wanted to thank you all for your responses! Shanghaimom, the pictures you posted were very helpful for visualizing what a wine rack would look like. We were actually 99% set on a wine rack after seeing it, but at the last minute decided to do a pull-out spice rack in the gap. It'll be kind of high for me, but we've got a ton of spices and bottles (some of which only get used once every couple of months), so I think it will be more practical for us to have the spice rack there. Plus moving all those spices/bottles into the pull-out will clear up at least one of our pantry shelves for other things. Thanks again for the helpful input!...See MoreCaulking the gaps between cabinets and walls & ceiling
Comments (6)Realize that “painters” are a dime a dozen, and usually do not do prep before slapping on some housepaint. A great Painting Contractor, as well as being licensed and insured, will talk to you about the prep that is needed before the paint goes up. And he will charge for it too. It won’t be Mr, $250 Per Room advertising on Craigslist....See MoreMain Line Kitchen Design
4 years ago2ManyDiversions
4 years agoShannon_WI
4 years agoGannonCo
4 years ago
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