I had a similar issue and used some pvc trim and faux painted it. You could use some crown trim, or some crown trim tiles. http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/bath/msg0718384732262.html Here are the final pics http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/bath/msg092039319369.html

@chispa is dead on - these guys are amateurs and hacks. I circled in yellow something you didn't point out. They can't even seem to get an outside miter correct. And no, slamming caulk in that joint is NOT an appropriate fix. The best, most stable and professional way to have made this miter would be: - cut to the appropriate angles - which are almost never 45 degrees - use the touch up stick on the raw inner edges of the miter cut - glue and pin nail the joint - immediately wipe off any excess glue that seeps out the joint Here's what an outside miter should look like - this is my own kitchen install - done by me, a DIYer. This is in an 83 year old home. I also routed and miter returned my own window stool (i.e., sill). I've never done this before. But this is how a miter should look. I don't post to brag, but rather to point out that your professionals are anything but . . . . An no, the gap between your ceiling and upper is not "faint". There are lots of ways to deal with an uneven ceiling. At a minimum, scribing the upper trim should have been done. A skilled finish carpenter and cabinet installer needs to use very little, if any caulk. Here's the challenge, I don't believe these guys have the necessary skill set. They clearly have no pride in their work. I wouldn't accept this shoddy work on a $500 job let alone one that's $50K.

I agree with what Kristin Petro Interiors, Inc. said. And yes, the adjustment for the uneven ceiling would have been made on the flat stock, and not as noticeable. You'd still have a gap, but it'd be smaller. If you are able to have the crown removed, and have a stock piece added just beneath, the area between the crown and ceiling will still need to be caulked. This is done by adding backer rod in the correct size (backer rod is a round tube of squishy foam which is pressed into the gap to act as both a filler and something for the caulk to adhere to). Then caulked at the ceiling, then painted to match the cabinets. Most ceilings are a bit off (unlike yours, which apparently is very uneven), so 'stock and caulk' are often a necessity. I'm not sure if you can use backer rod and caulk to correct such a large gap if the stock piece is not added (for whatever reasons). Were it me, I'd try, because the uneven gap does not look attractive. But you'd have to do a very, very neat job to tie it into the existing crown. It's doable, I've done it - though our gaps were far smaller, but it requires a good hand and patience.

I’m trying. Unfortunately, i signed off on it. Lesson learned. We‘re adding cabinets next to the fridge to give it room to open and pushing the others down. I’m not sure I prefer a small counter area for a coffee pot or the long cabinets more, but it should help with the fridge issue. They added the fascia and crown to the top of the ceiling as well. After I pointed things out, it seems like they’re wanting to fix as much as they can on the plan. Not wanting to budge on the Dishwasher issue so far because of the plumbing already being done though. Maybe I can change the island without altering the plumbing lines? Going to keep pushing.