My cabinets go the the ceiling. It is rare for a ceiling to be entirely level so there are a few very faint gaps between the ceiling and the top of the crown molding.

Thank you Anglophilia - is there a way to add filler to make it less noticeable? Perhaps adding white caulking or grout? Also, is it normal for nail holes to be filled as part of finishing the job or do they typically just stay as is? there are a number of places (may be hard to see in the pics) where the framing does not match up too well. Not sure if this can be addressed without redoing. Don‘t want to be unreasonable, so Any input on what one should reasonably expect is much appreciated. I so appreciate the insight I have gotten from all of these comments on Houzz - I cannot thank all of you enough.

The top should have been scribed to the ceiling and caulked. Same with your base molding from your other post. These guys are amateurs. Do not pay any more money. If they don't understand what scribing is, then call a finish carpenter to give you a quote to do this properly. Deduct the cost of the finish carpenter from the balance owed to the contractor.

Inside corner molding, shoe molding, and scribe molding appear to not have been ordered by your cabinet seller. It saved a couple of hundred dollars on the order, and on the install. I bet you would have paid the extra $900 had you known what that meant for what it would look like. The end result is that every bit of out of level floor, wall, and ceiling, is very visible.

The cabinet seller can still order the moldings, and the installer can still do another trip. It depend on the brand how fast that can come in. It’s all fixable to be concealed with the proper moldings.

Thank you - all of this is completely foreign to me and what you are saying makes sense. It is comforting to know that this is correctable. Also, you are absolutely right. I would have paid the extra. However, the general contractor did not mention this option/cost.

@chispa is dead on - these guys are amateurs and hacks. I circled in yellow something you didn't point out. They can't even seem to get an outside miter correct. And no, slamming caulk in that joint is NOT an appropriate fix. The best, most stable and professional way to have made this miter would be:

- cut to the appropriate angles - which are almost never 45 degrees

- use the touch up stick on the raw inner edges of the miter cut

- glue and pin nail the joint

- immediately wipe off any excess glue that seeps out the joint

Here's what an outside miter should look like - this is my own kitchen install - done by me, a DIYer. This is in an 83 year old home.

I also routed and miter returned my own window stool (i.e., sill). I've never done this before. But this is how a miter should look. I don't post to brag, but rather to point out that your professionals are anything but . . . .

An no, the gap between your ceiling and upper is not "faint". There are lots of ways to deal with an uneven ceiling. At a minimum, scribing the upper trim should have been done. A skilled finish carpenter and cabinet installer needs to use very little, if any caulk.

Here's the challenge, I don't believe these guys have the necessary skill set. They clearly have no pride in their work. I wouldn't accept this shoddy work on a $500 job let alone one that's $50K.

Thank you missenigma, yours looks really nice! Well done. The pics you provided are very helpful. I REALLY appreciate your in depth response.

Regarding the outside miter, the pic actually didn’t represent reality well. The pic below shows it better, but does not change the issues that you raised. The separation where the moldings meet (circled in red) is an example of what is found throughout the moldings that were installed.

For a semi-custom cabinet kitchen remodel, is scribing or addressing the uneven ceiling issue typically included? Or is this considered a custom or up-charge item? My GC never brought it up but my contract does include installing molding. In case he comes back with an added charge to address this, I want to have an informed response. I want to be fair - I am not looking to take advantage or try to squeeze in a freebie. All if you have given me such an education!

That should be the standard of any cabinet install: standard, semi-custom, or custom. The quality of the install should be the same across the board. The bumper on a Corolla is put on just as straight as the bumper on a Lexus.

You're not asking for a freebie. You're asking for the job to be done correctly. I can go to Home Goods and see cheap furniture with better applied molding.

It's just really, really sloppy finish work. They even managed to cut the trim at the top of cabinet too short....there is a gap next to the exterior wall. Strictly amateur hour work.

The trim needs to be replaced and not by the hack who first installed it. On your contractor's dime, not yours. And he needs to call the drywall guys back to float/ fill the bow in the soffit & paint before the new trim is installed.