Master suite feedback?
Lynn Heins
4 years ago
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thinkdesignlive
4 years agoLindsey_CA
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Master Suite Addition Floorplan Help
Comments (67)That's a pretty vanity MClarke - but we'de really prefer separate his & hers pieces to avoid my 'counter creep'... Plus, having one long vanity on the left wall puts one person using a vanity under a lower ceiling. That's why I had to X out two of the 'why don't you try' options on the bottom. Do you think the two 5' vanities in the top left option are too small? What about the 8' + 5' vanities in the top right plan? That doesn't give me my FFP (which doesn't exist - the armoire does, but wouldn't be right for the bath) but the sight lines from the bathroom door would still be attractive (the main reason for my longed-for FFP)....See MoreJust need a little input on a master suite layout.
Comments (7)Overall, I like the design. It's different. I don't like that the bathroom entry door from the living room walks right in to the master shower with a wall of glass in front. But since you designed it that way I'll leave it. I like the curved wall but I'm not liking the acute corner in the shower. It's dead space, and in a steam shower you size the generator off of the volume of space that you need to steam. I don't want to change the curved lines into straight ones. But I might stretch them a bit. Here's an alternative: First, I moved the water closet and added a pocket door for access. That opens up the closet a bit more. I flipped the closet design to give you an entire wall of closet rod. Moving the water closet also resulted in the vanity being shifted upwards a bit, as well as the loss of the two cabinet towers you had at each end of the bathroom vanity. Those two cabinet towers were relocated to the wall at the bottom of the shower. They were made wider as well. I cut and pasted, but that niche can be filled with a complete cabinet unit affording much more storage than before. I changed the curve of the shower wall to get rid of the acute corner in the shower and to open it up a bit. By widening the top of the shower it allowed me to shift the shower heads up on the curved wall and to steal space from the bottom of the shower while still maintaining a spacious shower. That's where I relocated the two cabinets that used to be next to the bathroom vanity. Not sure if this matters, but increasing the curve of the shower wall causes the shower wall to project more into the bedroom. That projection blocks the direct line-of-sight between the door leading to the living room and the pillows on the bed. Now if someone is sleeping and someone else opens the bedroom door, a light in the living room won't shine directly on the sleeping person's face. So...just a slight tweaking of your design to get the ideas flowing....See MoreMaster suite remodel
Comments (7)Not the way you have it configured where you're giving up the desired corner space for a bedroom and giving it over to a closet and bath. Ideally you want a bedroom (and public rooms) to have windows on 2 walls for light and cross breezes. Additionally both are poorly laid out. 1. A 6 x 8 closet means you can only have hanging on one side unless you intend to hang on the two short sides. The bath is 8' wide or 96" wide. You need a minimum of 3' for the enclosed toilet or else it will feel like a closet. Add to that 4" for walls. That leaves you 56" wide. A vanity is 21" deep which leaves you with 35" which isn't even a normal walkway of 36". It will be too tight. 2. The problem with this arrangement is every time you want to go to the bathroom (think middle of the night) it means walking clear around the bed to get to the bathroom. I wouldn't want to be the spouse who's closer to the closet. Add to that the problem in the morning of running back and forth between the closet (going around the bed each time) and the bathroom trying to get ready or at night doing the reverse getting ready for bed. The 6'8" closet width is still too small for hanging on both of the long sides. The minimum needed for hanging on 2 sides is 7'. Why? Hanging clothes take up 2' of space. 7' - 4' = 3' which again is the minimum you would want for walkway into a closet and especially a long one. In both designs if either one needs the facilities in the middle of the night, it means possibly waking the other spouse when it comes time to turn on the bathroom light. And then there is the problem of getting back to the bed without stubbing your shin on the side of the bed. Post the full floor plan so we can see if there's a better solution....See MoreBack to the drawing board with master suite design, what do you think?
Comments (81)I would like the dresser for sure, as it’s something I refinished and is also a decorative piece. So it's a lovely piece, but those socks and underwear could probably fit in the good-sized closet. I was going to suggest -- as you've already said -- it might work under the TV. Or might it go into the closet /set the tone in that space? -The closet door and opening are marked to be 30”, which is also the amount of wall to the left of the opening. A barn door type door needs to be a few inches larger than its opening. A bifold barn door could work here. -We’ve been sharing a shower that’s 32”x32”, so a 5x3 is a welcome upgrade in size to me. But we’ll see as plans get finalized more. 32x32 is summer-camp for sure, but remember that wasn't just more than you have ... your goal is an ideal space. Have you measured showers in hotels, friends' houses, etc. to judge what you consider an ideal size? In the layout you're considering now, you do have space to go a little deeper ... as long as you maintain the walkway to the toilet. 3x5 is adequate but not the "large shower" that was your goal. Think through it ... you don't want to finish this and have regrets. -As far as the toilet nook, That is a long walk from the bedroom ... I hadn't considered that. The width is fine, but with the depth being a bit tight and the toilet stack already being in place (I understand not wanting to move that), maybe a wall-hung toilet is worth investigation. It's a higher cost and installation is more difficult, but -- once those one-time problems are behind you -- I think it'd make everyday use more comfortable. That’s actually about the size of the closet that’s currently in there, but I may make it face the hallway (depending on if I put a sliding door in the hallway or not) so it’s wider and shallow instead of narrower and deep like the current caninet. I'd have this closet face the hallway. This'd make for easier access. OR, if you do it in the bathroom, consider a pull-out cabinet instead of a typical closet ... that'll allow you to reach things at the back of what will be a deep closet. I also thought about a window in the primary toilet nook, but we decided against it as I really want a window in the guest bath and we thought two windows that close side by side would look silly from the outside. This is the back of the house, I'd go with the two windows. It'll be more pleasant walking down that little hallway, and it'll be a more pleasant view while, um, doing your business. I also was planning to keep extra toilet paper in the freestanding cabinet. I'd think you want the toilet paper AT the toilet ... since this space seems wide enough, perhaps you could find a narrow cabinet that'd fit in this space? -I marked on the photo with an arrow where I’d planned for towel hooks and a hamper, next to the shower. Ah, so I see these aren't after-thoughts, but if you widen the shower this space will be too small for two towels to hang. If you widen the shower (narrow the walkway), you could potentially hang towels (spaced farther apart) on that wall across from the shower. -I’m confused where you said it is a long hallway. It’s proposed to be 14.5’, so shorter than the existing hallway. 14' maybe shorter than what you have now, but it is a relatively long walkway to your bedroom. Unfortunately, the wall with the yarn room can’t be moved over to widen the second hallway, because it’s the load bearing wall. And I’d rather not take any more square footage from the new bathroom. Well, we're talking about a remodel, and I get that everything isn't a possibility. I’m leery about putting another layer of anything over them as the ceilings in that half of the house are so low, but I’ll look into how much thickness the tiles you mention would add. I understand the desire not to take away height, but popcorn ceilings mostly contain asbestos and require special care in removal. Covering them would be considerably easier ... you can see these tiles on Amazon, where you can also read reviews and ask questions of the people who've used them....See MoreMark Bischak, Architect
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