@thinkdesignlive this is a loose idea of what I had planned for a 3 seasons. there’s also a set of stairs in the garage to the basement I’m not sure if that was on my other plan.

@thinkdesignlive I have another idea that popped into my head after staring at your plans for awhile. I’ll try to draw it up. But basically I’m thinking: shift the bathroom you drew back into the flex room (aka old primary room), nix the closet and continue the private hall til it enters a new addition/ primary bed at the back (where you had the new bathroom). Then split the addition area in front to make a new closet for bed 2 on the right and a walk in for the primary on the left. Then I can flip bed 2’s old closet door into bed 3 and still make bed 3’s closet the new coat closet for the entry like I’d planned.

Then my daughter could still have bed 2 if she wants the bigger room/closet and my craft room would be bed 3. I’d be compromising not having a buffer between the primary bathroom and I’d be sharing a partial wall between bed 2 but at least it wouldn’t be a full wall (maybe I could even put some sort of linen closet there. And then I’d still get my bed and bath in the back like I wanted. That might have to be my compromise if we absolutely can’t move the existing bedroom walls for some reason.

Does that make sense how I described it? I’ll try to draw it up later.

@thinkdesignlive I had one more question while I’m working on this. I noticed you actually made the existing bed 2 narrower than it really is in your drawing by a couple feet. So that additional hallway would be a 19’. My proposed hallway was 22’ (like I said, it’s marked 26’ but that is wrong). So my proposed hall was only 3’ longer than the additional hallway you added, is a 22’ hallway really considered that bad?

I just feel like one, slightly longer 22’ hallway would save a lot more square footage than 34’ between 2 hallways.

I don’t think there’s anything particularly wrong with your overall plan - a 17’ addition that minimizes costs and complexity and allows you to add a primary suite and reconfigure the rooms to suit your needs sounds like a reasonable way to proceed. Personally, I don’t think your proposed layout makes the best use of the space (particularly the bathroom), but it’s your house and you have a very specific wish list and your own priorities. There will always have to be compromises, but it seems like a lot revolves around the placement of your bathtub. Anyway, setting aside personal preferences and priorities, I don’t have a problem with the long hallway but I think your closet is going to feel cramped. The last version you posted above shows the walk-in closet is 6’ wide - if you plan to hang clothes on both sides, I think you’ll find the walkway somewhat tight and uncomfortable (definitely not luxurious).

Here’s my last stab. I know the primary bedroom space isn’t luxurious but it is functional and gives you complete privacy (and it is technically the largest bedroom of the 3). I thought the craft room off the view would be really desirable. Otherwise I think it ticks off all your boxes without reworking the existing bedrooms completely (trying to work with existing window locations). The dotted line in the smallest bedroom shows the wall you would take down.

The other reason I like the craft room (not only because it works with the overall architecture of the spaces best) but that for resale this is a perfect babies room.

@thinkdesignlive I noticed you’ve been drawing bedroom 2 at 8.5’ wide, but it is 10’ wide. Are you proposing narrowing it?

No to making bed 2 smaller - assume it’s the same. I have been doing this fast and free hand so something got lost in translation - consider that extra 2’ added space in the vanity area as well in the primary bath. And if you don’t want the craft room you could have a huge primary bedroom at the top of the plan (back of the house) and a huge walk in at the front of the house. Seemed excessively huge for both which is why I preferred this last layout.

Just because something works on a floor plan does not mean it will work in reality. Hire a local architect that can visit the site and investigate the existing conditions of the site and structure that will effect the project.

@Mark Bischak, Architect I’ll definitely bring someone in once we get closer to starting. My husband is a foreman in commercial construction. So we did already take a close look, took exact measurements and determined what is load bearing, where certain things are in the walls, what couldn’t be moved, mocked up the current floor plan etc. But once I pin down a better idea I’ll be contacting someone. I just don’t even want to get to the point of hiring someone if we know we can’t get exactly what we want out of the addition, because in that case I’d probably stay put in our current home, so I was trying to work that out first.

@thinkdesignlive ”excessivly big” actually sounds good to me! 😂 I currently have a 13’6”x 11’6” bedroom and I was hoping to get something bigger. I’m planning on maybe fitting a loveseat, TV, fireplace and a large antique makeup vanity. I’d also like to get as large of a primary closet as possible. So I was also thinking the primary closet towards the front of the house might have to be my compromise.

I’m out in my workshop right now, but I will take a closer look at this plan once l get back in the house to compare measurements. I do think the craft with a view sounds nice in theory, but I really dont need an additional room because I only have guests maybe once per year, so I still think one of the existing bedrooms could be my craft room. I’m not too concerned with resale because this is a house on a family farm thats been passed down through generations and probably won’t ever be sold. BUT if I do leave the existing bedrooms alone, maybe it could be flipped to a large closet and small craft room at the front and large bedroom in back. This definitely has my wheels turning.

You can change the house but not the location so if you like the location and land I would go for it. Oh and of course if it doesn't break the bank. We did a lot of DIY renovations to a house we owned. I usually started out with the "dream" plan and then scale way back due to cost (didn't want to move supporting walls, matching brick on outside would be a pain, digging a foundation etc).

When you think about closets, you need space to walk in. Your configuration needs the entrance on the 7'6" side to work. 1'10" hanging space on each side.

@thinkdesignlive I’ve used some of your suggestions/inspiration and come up with a plan I think I’m finally really happy with! It gives me everything I was hoping for, while leaving the existing structure relatively in place

Just a little reconfiguring in the guest bath/borrowing 1’ from the former primary closet in order to move the tub. And borrowing from the bedroom 2 closet to expand bedroom 3 to the same size.

New primary bath and hallway in the existing footprint of the former primary bedroom. And primary toilet nook where the existing powder room toilet was.

@dan1888 yes, I feared that was too narrow, especially when my husband and I want to be in the closet at the same time. I’ve completely reworked the plan now with a 9x10 closet, you can view it in my previous comment.

Looking better! I’d suggest making all new windows as big as possible and add a pocket door at the end of the hall closer to your bedroom.

And you may want to look at a tv over the fireplace positioned directly across the bed. A corner FP with a tv next to it doesn’t usually look that great. And rather than clerestory windows on the main wall consider full height with sheer drapes (and over drapes for full privacy at night). I fear a room that big with vaulted ceilings - but dinky windows - will feel off. As much natural light as possible is always good.

@thinkdesignlive is there a standard for how close a window can/should be to a corner? Those were my back yard view windows, so I’d love if they could be bigger! I just didn‘t want them behind the bed or too far into the corners.

I already own the corner fireplace, so I thought I could use it there and I was planning a small console I have for under the TV.

My reasoning for the clerestory windows on that side is because it faces towards the road (house is on an angle) and I liked the idea of leaving them uncovered at all times. Plus I wanted one solid wall with no door or window in the way. also thought it would enable more room for storage underneath in the closet.

@thinkdesignlive I haven’t looked into windows for the addition too much yet, I would say I could do a triangular one that went along with the peak, but the problem is, the roof peaks on the back half of the existing hallway/front of the new hallway so it would be too off centered in the room.

I know 10’ ceilings sound big on paper, but the pitch of this house is so low, they will be 7’6 on the side and very gradually peak to 10’ in line with the front of the new hallway. So thats why I wanted that vaulted.

Get pricing on as many fixed pane windows as possible. A money saving option. Avoid vinyl.

@thinkdesignlive also, the fireplace can convert to a flat wall one, so I dont have to make that set in stone and could decide when the room is done. I will play around with furnitire placement making that fireplace flat with TV above and maybe a chair in the corner instead. I also want to try a small loveseat/mini coffee table at rhe end of the bed.

Also from a plumbing perspective it makes more sense to put a walk in shower where you are showing the guest toilet and then keep the fixtures as they are currently located for the toilet and vanity.

@thinkdesignlive we absolutely have to have a tub for that bathroom, so thats why I did it that way. considering the amount of plumbing we’ll be doing everywhere else, I’m not too concerned. All fixtures and flooring will be completely replaced, so now is the time to move them.

It was also really important to me to get a window and light into that bathroom and more appealing to have a toilet in a nook rather than a tight shower with a window in it (not a fan of windows in showers).

The wall between the two existing toilets probably wouldn’t be able to be taken out far enough to the left to accommodate a shower anyway, because it contains the toilet vent pipe and my husband doesn’t want to move that.

@thinkdesignlive I also plan to get a linen cabinet in there, I just have to get more exact measurments on a couple things, like the vanity I want to use.

I’m really surprised by your proposed layout for the bedroom. You’ve been adamant about wanting the bedroom in the back of the house to take advantage of the view, but you’ve oriented all your furniture away from the view to focus on a television.

90% of the time someone is in a bedroom they are unconscious.

@Mark Bischak, Architect - that was the point I was making in my earlier comment when I questioned how much time would actually be spend appreciating the view from the bedroom.

@marilyncb not only for the view, also for the privacy. A big factor was I wanted to be able to leave bilds/curtains open most of the time. To me, if I’m starting from scratch and paying for an addition and can choose where I want my bedroom, the easy choice for me is the back of the house. I think what we were talking about before though was the bathroom/tub, which you can see I put the tub in front of a large window. I’m also still tinkering with the addition and will put as large of windows that will fit properly in that bedroom, so they’ll probably end up quite larger than what’s shown here.

On first try, it worked out best to orient the bed this way with the way the doors are in the room (best wall to center it). I don’t think I’ll be laying in bed much while enjoying the view, because that would mostly be at night. More so, I’d be enjoying the view when I’m doing things like using my bed to fold laundry, using my vanity, sitting in a chair reading, etc. In my current living room, the sofa is in front of the picture window facing away, but that doesn’t mean I don’t still look out the window all the time. Also, this is just a rough layout to be sure I could fit in everything I wanted. I often re-arrange furniture and may end up changing things. I’m already thinking I would move the fireplace under the TV instead of a console table (it can be a corner or flat fireplace) and put a chair in the corner for reading, so that chair would be facing out. Or maybe I’ll completely change it around before I’m done, I actually just re-drew the whole layout blank and printed some furniture cut outs so I could play with layouts.

Maybe things are just getting lost in translation on the internet, but I’m actually kind of surprised at all the backlash I’ve gotten for every choice I’ve made or anything I’ve said I wanted to get out of this reno, rather than advice on how to get it there. I’ve not usually encountered that here before.

@Mark Bischak, Architect When it comes to sleeping absolutely. I have been a homeowner for a couple decades and know what I use my bedroom for and want out of it though. I just don’t get why I’m being harped on and told what I want to get out of my dream home is wrong, when I was just asking for ideas on how to get the rooms placed how I’d hoped with an addition.

Just so it doesn’t get lost among the millions of design details, be sure to do a better job with the outlet and tv cord placement than in your tub inspiration photo.

@hhireno thanks, yes I noticed that too. I’m not sure what they’ve got going on there, if its where they ran to a satellite/cable or what but I’ll be sure to avoid that. Luckily my husband is an electrician so I dont think he’d let that even be an option haha.

It is not necessarily telling you what to do, it is just a little perspective and shedding a little light to help sort out practical decision making.

@Mark Bischak, Architect I get/appreciate that. It’s just that I’ve lived in the same house for 15 years and I know what I dislike about it and wish I could change (but cant because there’s no land to expand). I’ve had my running wishlist for some time. Moving and renovating this house would be the opportunity to get the things we’ve wanted and this would be our forever home. So going through all the work of renovating, adding an addition just to compromise and essentially build the same setup I have at my current home wouldn’t be worth it to me. I feel like most of this thread has been me explaining/defending why I want what I want rather than some ideas or pointers of how to get to what I was hoping for. I feel like I've gotten close with this recent draft, but still mostly negative feedback.

ETA: I just want to make sure the actual floor plan layout looks right, for instance one thing I’m worried about is if it creates too much of a bottleneck having two hallways like suggested. But I did try to widen the second hallway door opening to 3.5 feet to help prevent that (it’s currently only a 30” doorway if left as is). Things like which way my bed is facing is something minuscule I feel I could easily change later if I wanted. My sofa in my current living room faces away from the picture window, but I still look out it all the time while I’m in there. I know a lot of people only sleep in their room, but I also know that I will probably be spending more time in my room and using it as a mini lounge/living room, especially if we don't finish off the basement before we move in, because my tween will take over the living room. I wanted to have my own relaxing quarters at the back of the house.

In terms of street-facing windows in the primary bedroom: we have this situation (albeit on the second floor) -- and we got top-down bottom-up shades. They work great! I can open them all the way when I want; and I can control the amount of light that gets in (can't do that with clerestories).

Re: 10x10 bedrooms... this is what my kids had in our old house. They *are* pretty tight -- you can't gracefully ;) put in a desk unless you stick to a twin bed or do a loft. Needs must, and we crammed 2 tween boys and 2 desks in their room using a bunk bed. Especially because it sounds like you and your husband have skills, you could possibly build a really nice loft+desk for your daughter if you're raising the ceiling anyway -- but I would avoid this if possible!!

@Emily R. Thanks! That’s actually the setup I have in my current home too, my primary facing the street and I wanted to avoid having that again because I find I tend to just leave the blinds closed 24/7, or else I’m having to close them when I change during the day, etc. While this house would be a little more private in the country, the road out front is still somewhat busy as it’s a popular shortcut to the next town. This would also be on land shared with our in-laws and even though the houses are miles apart, my FIL would be sharing the workshop with us and going back and forth through the front drive. So a primary at the back of the house is very appealing to me for privacy and I’d like to take advantage of the field and be able to leave the blinds open. Those blinds you mention sound interesting though, I’ll have to give them a look!

When you say avoid if possible, are you talking about raising the ceiling? I have come to terms with the fact that may have to be where I compromise, just because it would involve re framing the walls in every room on that side and at least I could still vault the primary in the new addition. I’m not sure if you saw my updated plan, but I’m planning to expand the smallest bedroom by taking it into the closet of the larger room, then I can make a closet for the larger room in the new addition. This would make both secondary bedrooms equal size and then my daughter can take the bedroom farthest from us but not feel like she got the smallest room and it will be about the size of her current room. At least then it will require minimal re-framing and drywall patching.

One thing I will have to do though if we don’t re-do the ceiling is have the popcorn removed. I don’t think I can live with the heavy popcorn AND low ceilings. I just hope the popcorn isnt hiding too many imperfections. The guest bath will need the ceiling raised either way because it’s only 7’ and that’s just too low, even lower than the rooms I’m expanding it into.

@knitsewoften When I say 'avoid if possible,' I'm referring to a 10x10 bedroom. ;) But I think you've fixed this with the closet move.

In the new plan, where is the back/view; and where is the street? I was assuming it was on the side with the clerestories.

Yes, I really didn’t want the 10x10 bedroom either lol. My daughter’s room now is 11’6x11’6 and we always thought that was tight.

Tom had two horses and wanted to know the best way to tell them apart. He decided to post on Horzze to see if any other horse enthusiast had ideas. One Horzzer suggested tying different color ribbons in the horse's manes, but the ribbons fell out. Another Horzzer suggested putting a splash of paint on the hindquarter of each horse, but the paint eventually wore off. Finally a seamstress suggested measuring each horse to see if one was taller than the other. Sure enough, Tom discovered his white horse was a full hand taller than his chestnut horse.

The point is, with a remodeling, your concerns should be addressed by someone that can investigate the existing conditions and gather all the pertinent information without trying to convey it over the internet.

@Mark Bischak, Architect I’m not planning to set my layout in stone based on whats discussed here. I’m just looking to brainstorm and get a general floor plan together before I start calling in people to look at it. I’d rather feel prepared and have somewhat of an idea first than get talked into something I don’t want because I had no plans or ideas to convey what I’m wanting.

When you finalize your floor plan, make a list of all the things you like about it and the things you wish were incorporated in it but somehow could not be accomplished. Then throw the floor plan away and give the list to your architect.

@Mark Bischak, Architect Was that really necessary? Wow is all I have to say. Not helpful. I had a feeling I was sensing a condescending tone.

It was more necessary than you know. Good luck with your project.

I think the last plan has merit - just needs tweaking. I’d suggest the loveseat at the end of the bed, the windows flanking the bed to be as wide and tall as possible, the FP centered on that wall with the TV above it and the clerestory windows to run the length of that whole side of the house….additional tweak would be avoiding the awkward placement of linen closet as shown in the primary bath - the wall by the shower would be better….your wish list is doable!

Knitsewoften - he’s just saying that the architect can give you a fresh look at this and will approach it with an open mind by working from a list. Keeping open minds should work all ways.

@thinkdesignlive Thanks, I’m glad to hear you say that. This one is the closest to getting what I’ve hoped and it feels like it all clicked, so I’m glad you think it could work. You’ve been extremely helpful in figuring this out and giving me ideas. I can’t thank you enough.

I actually was planning for a loveseat at the end of the bed, with either a small coffee table or storage trunk to act as a table. The other thing is supposed to represent an armchair and footstool, which I think I’ll actually put in the corner where the fireplace is, and it can face out towards the windows for when I’m reading or knitting. I just wasn’t happy with my chair drawing, so I plopped a bench there until I could look at an image of how to draw a loveseat properly.

For the bathroom, I was hoping to put towel hooks and possibly a hamper on that blank partial wall that’s shared with the side of the shower, so that there’s a quick place to grab towels right out of the shower. For the cabinet, I was just planning a small store bought one rather than a built in, just something small that can hold extra towels and toilet paper. I have one like that in my basement bath and I like that it can be moved if needed. I may also just do one of those counter to ceiling cabs in the vanity if space allowed. So it doesn’t necessarily have to go there.

One thing I’m still worried about is the two halls being too tight for moving furniture. But with taking the original primary closet out to make room for the tub, I’d have about an extra foot to widen that doorway to 3’6”, so I hope that would be enough to make it a non-issue. That was why I was thinking a sliding door or pocket door there, so it could move completely out of the way when needed.

@thinkdesignlive Also, I completely agree about windows, I plan to go as big as possible.

-Wanted the master bathroom/bedroom facing the back of the house (faces a field/trees and has privacy)

Goal achieved.

-Wanted a soaker tub in front of a large bay window facing the back yard and an antique hutch in front of it for bath supplies and TV (like pic 3) and wanted a spacious feel around tub.

The TV in the inspiration picture is pretty high; you'd have to bend your neck to watch it. I'd rather see a lower piece of furniture.

-Walk in closet.

Specific thoughts about this closet:

- With such a large closet, do you think you also need the dresser? It looks cramped by that door.

- I think you've drawn a 2' barn door to cover a 3' door opening. The TV prevents the door from sliding the other direction. Maybe TWO narrow doors that "meet in the middle"? Or a bifold door on a barn door track?

- I wouldn't put doors on the linen closet inside the larger closet. It's all a storage area -- why create an obstacle to reaching your linens?

-Large shower.

Eh, how big is large? Our hall shower is 3x5, and I'd call it average. If you do away with the freestanding cabinet across from the shower, you could make the shower 4x5. With the storage cabinet at the foot of the tub, you have storage for towels and extra toiletries.

-Partition for toilet

-Wanted toilet and shower away from bedroom because my husband works odd hours. Also wanted a door where he could leave the master bath without having to come back into the bedroom/wake me, so I added the door to the hallway between the shower/toilet.

Achieved ... I like the toilet's location /private but not behind a door. Specific thoughts:

- Remember that 30" in front of the toilet is minimum ... and you really want a little more for comfort. The tub in the secondary bathroom appears to have a bit of empty space at one end ... I'd like to give a little extra depth to the master toilet. Alternately, you could go with a wall-mounted toilet, which saves space. Take a tape measure with you and measure toilets at work, stores, etc. to see how this space will "feel".

- I'd add a window (with obscure glass or plantation shutters) right in front of the toilet; otherwise, this could be a dark little space.

- I'd also want shelves above the toilet for toilet paper storage (and other storage needs).

- Where will you place towel bars? a hamper?

- I like that light from the bathroom won't spill over on a sleeper in the bed.

I don’t think your proposed layout makes the best use of the space (particularly the bathroom), but it’s your house and you have a very specific wish list and your own priorities.

Agree.

I don’t have a problem with the long hallway

It IS a long hallway. Could you give up some space from the room that's becoming a yarn/craft room? If you could give up 1-2' to widen the hall, you could have a whole wall of cabinets /shelves on the left side of that long hall as you enter the master bedroom ... this would give you space for storage, artwork, etc. I'd put a small "always on" lamp in this area to provide a soft light for this long hallway.

is there a standard for how close a window can/should be to a corner?

Consider the space necessary for "parking" your curtains.

One thing I will have to do though if we don’t re-do the ceiling is have the popcorn removed.

Removing popcorn is not easy. You might consider covering it with ceiling tiles instead.

@Mrs Pete -I would like the dresser for sure, as it’s something I refinished and is also a decorative piece. I normally use it for socks and underwear. So I put it as close as I could get it to the closet while still showcasing it in the bedroom, for now, but it could change and be moved somewhere else in the room. I possibly might even use it as storage under the TV.

-The closet door and opening are marked to be 30”, which is also the amount of wall to the left of the opening. I just drew it with the barn door partially in front of the doorway. I also had a gap to the side of the dresser, meant for the door to tuck out of the way there. A part of me is wishing I could get the closet door all the way to one side so there’s more wall space if I decide to flip the bed to that wall, so I may still play around with that some more. Agreed about the linen closet doors. I just got stuck in drawing doors on closets and didn’t even think about it, but that makes sense. I actually keep my extra linens in storage cubes, so I could easily just make those open shelves and it would still look neat and uncluttered.

-We’ve been sharing a shower that’s 32”x32”, so a 5x3 is a welcome upgrade in size to me. But we’ll see as plans get finalized more.

-As far as the toilet nook, that’s actually an existing powder room off the current primary bedroom (what I plan to be the new bathroom) so I’ve been able to see how the distance in front of the toilet feels in person. I think we’ll be ok with it, especially with no door. I still like that better than having the toilet out in the room, even if it is a tad tight. I love your idea about moving the wall behind it back, but unfortunately that wall can’t be moved as it contains the toilet vent pipe and my husband doesn’t want that moved. I was planning to use the extra space at the foot of the bathtub for a small closet though. That’s actually about the size of the closet that’s currently in there, but I may make it face the hallway (depending on if I put a sliding door in the hallway or not) so it’s wider and shallow instead of narrower and deep like the current caninet. Then do a second, freestanding cabinet in that bathroom.

I also thought about a window in the primary toilet nook, but we decided against it as I really want a window in the guest bath and we thought two windows that close side by side would look silly from the outside. So I’ll just make sure there’s a good light fixture in the primary toilet nook. I’ll definitely plan for some shelves and I also was planning to keep extra toilet paper in the freestanding cabinet. I also like the idea of a wall mounted toilet because it would be easier to clean around in that small space. I’ll look into that.

-I marked on the photo with an arrow where I’d planned for towel hooks and a hamper, next to the shower.

-I’m confused where you said it is a long hallway. It’s proposed to be 14.5’, so shorter than the existing hallway. My original plan was to take the existing hall straight through the yarn room, but I changed it because that’s what everyone said would be too long. So I thought those were considered two somewhat shorter hallways. I know the existing 16’ hallway looks short in person. Unfortunately, the wall with the yarn room can’t be moved over to widen the second hallway, because it’s the load bearing wall. And I’d rather not take any more square footage from the new bathroom.

-I’ll have to find out all my options for the ceilings in the existing bedrooms. My original thought was to take them down and vault to get some much needed height, but I decided it might be too much work with having to re-frame every wall to the new height. Then I thought maybe getting the popcorn scraped would be the easy option, but if it’s not easy, then I may even just take them down and re-drywall. I’m leery about putting another layer of anything over them as the ceilings in that half of the house are so low, but I’ll look into how much thickness the tiles you mention would add.

Thanks!

Timely article about bedrooms....some inspiration to get your layout right.

White Oak Primary Bedroom · More Info

The above is a good example of windows with drapes in corners. You can start to see how you won't be able to appreciate much view (so consider wall mount lamps, no plantation shutters for your condition).

OR since you have enough space with 15' you could turn the bed like this and put the TV over the dresser (I would not have the love seat with 15' but if you went to 17' then the loveseat could be considered). I like the continuous clerestory and you can see that the view would be fully appreciated:

Cali Coastal · More Info

With either of these layouts shown above you may then be able to rework the closet door all the way to the corner (in your mind, place your dresser where the dressers are shown in these images).

I like Mr's Pete's comment about deleting the linen entirely in the bath and to use the hutch for extra toiletries, etc. Would the antique vanity fit there opposite the shower (where you are showing linen?)

I would like the dresser for sure, as it’s something I refinished and is also a decorative piece.

So it's a lovely piece, but those socks and underwear could probably fit in the good-sized closet. I was going to suggest -- as you've already said -- it might work under the TV. Or might it go into the closet /set the tone in that space?

-The closet door and opening are marked to be 30”, which is also the amount of wall to the left of the opening.

A barn door type door needs to be a few inches larger than its opening. A bifold barn door could work here.

-We’ve been sharing a shower that’s 32”x32”, so a 5x3 is a welcome upgrade in size to me. But we’ll see as plans get finalized more.

32x32 is summer-camp for sure, but remember that wasn't just more than you have ... your goal is an ideal space. Have you measured showers in hotels, friends' houses, etc. to judge what you consider an ideal size? In the layout you're considering now, you do have space to go a little deeper ... as long as you maintain the walkway to the toilet.

3x5 is adequate but not the "large shower" that was your goal. Think through it ... you don't want to finish this and have regrets.

-As far as the toilet nook,

That is a long walk from the bedroom ... I hadn't considered that. The width is fine, but with the depth being a bit tight and the toilet stack already being in place (I understand not wanting to move that), maybe a wall-hung toilet is worth investigation. It's a higher cost and installation is more difficult, but -- once those one-time problems are behind you -- I think it'd make everyday use more comfortable.

That’s actually about the size of the closet that’s currently in there, but I may make it face the hallway (depending on if I put a sliding door in the hallway or not) so it’s wider and shallow instead of narrower and deep like the current caninet.

I'd have this closet face the hallway. This'd make for easier access. OR, if you do it in the bathroom, consider a pull-out cabinet instead of a typical closet ... that'll allow you to reach things at the back of what will be a deep closet.

I also thought about a window in the primary toilet nook, but we decided against it as I really want a window in the guest bath and we thought two windows that close side by side would look silly from the outside.

This is the back of the house, I'd go with the two windows. It'll be more pleasant walking down that little hallway, and it'll be a more pleasant view while, um, doing your business.

I also was planning to keep extra toilet paper in the freestanding cabinet.

I'd think you want the toilet paper AT the toilet ... since this space seems wide enough, perhaps you could find a narrow cabinet that'd fit in this space?
-I marked on the photo with an arrow where I’d planned for towel hooks and a hamper, next to the shower.

Ah, so I see these aren't after-thoughts, but if you widen the shower this space will be too small for two towels to hang. If you widen the shower (narrow the walkway), you could potentially hang towels (spaced farther apart) on that wall across from the shower.

-I’m confused where you said it is a long hallway. It’s proposed to be 14.5’, so shorter than the existing hallway.

14' maybe shorter than what you have now, but it is a relatively long walkway to your bedroom.

Unfortunately, the wall with the yarn room can’t be moved over to widen the second hallway, because it’s the load bearing wall. And I’d rather not take any more square footage from the new bathroom.

Well, we're talking about a remodel, and I get that everything isn't a possibility.
I’m leery about putting another layer of anything over them as the ceilings in that half of the house are so low, but I’ll look into how much thickness the tiles you mention would add.
I understand the desire not to take away height, but popcorn ceilings mostly contain asbestos and require special care in removal. Covering them would be considerably easier ... you can see these tiles on Amazon, where you can also read reviews and ask questions of the people who've used them.