The time has come when we REALLY need to make up our mind. Plumber is going to get to the master bath in a couple of days. Electrician wants to know where to put lights. Here are 4 layouts we are considering. Each layout shows 2 bed positions. We think Position 1 provides for the best interior decorating options and looks best in the room (opposite the sliding glass doors), and Position 2 provides for better views and generally better traffic flow, especially in Plan A. Note: The ceiling is slightly vaulted (1/12 slope) with peak in dressing room. Plan A: what is currently framed. POSITIVES: it's currently framed, you enter right into the bedroom, and the dressing room area is nice and symmetric, a nice room into itself. The door is clearly visible. NEGATIVES: upon entering the bedroom, with bed in Position 2, you are right at the head of the bed. With bed in Position 1, you have to walk around it to go to the dressing / bath area. It may be a positive or negative (depending on how you look at it) that you enter the bathroom and can go straight into the toilet, though there is a door there. On the other hand, upon entering the bathroom, when you turn to the right, you'll see a very cool angular freestanding tub (LACAVA) which will look better from a few feet away at the top of the bathroom. Plan B: entering the bedroom up just a bit from what we currently have framed. POSITIVES: upon entering upstairs, you could easily go to the bedroom or bathroom. I kind of like entering the master bath in this position, straight to sink and no way will toilet be in view. We could even consider removing the door to the toilet. I also like this entry better in terms of stepping in and not entering right at the head of the bed in Position 2. Could put low linen closet opposite toilet entry. NEGATIVES: there is a door to the suite that can be closed off to make the whole suite private, but you can't see the door from either bed position. Dressing area closets aren't quite balanced, though this could be OK. Per earlier comment, when you walk into the bathroom and turn to the right the tub will be RIGHT there. We could of course use this Plan B but keep our existing bathroom entry. (this became Plan D) Plan C: straight shot up to the top and then take a left to the bedroom. POSITIVES: Maximizes headboard width for the bed in Position 1. Best layout for someone with a king size bed (which is not us). Clean traffic flow. Upon entering bedroom, bed in position 2 is right in view. Preferred bathroom entry NEGATIVES: no structure to hold up the 6' high headboard wall, so an "L" is added which could hold light switches but is not optimal aesthetically. Could either put a post there or give up the short wall idea and go straight to the ceiling. Plan D: Like Plan B, but with bathroom entry and closets adjusted to be like A. POSITIVES: It's already framed. Best view of bathroom when you walk in because tub and shower will be at some distance. Room will feel bigger I think than in B. Closets are more symmetric than B. NEGATIVES: Same ones as B. Can't see door from bed. Comments anyone? Is anything jumping out to anyone that I'm missing? Thanks in advance!!!!

OK... to answer.. my frig does have to go there. We tried a zillion layout configurations over the couple years we've worked on this. As of now, it's wired and the water line is in. Plus, there's a window above the bakers table which will bring in natural light and a beautiful view. It's a quirky layout which is why it took so long and so many wonderful minds (who had tons of patience with me) to get there. Again, not perfect, but it's a weird little house. Not sure about the difference in CA and US IKEA. I do know IKEA has a 21" base. I think it was bmore the other day who aid I can get drawers for it. Either way... I'd go 18" if I had to and cut back the width. I know I could also use 15x20" uppers and stack them ... turning them sideways. Here's what I'm thinking rhome. DH has always love the idea of a countertop curving in. So I could do a gentle curve in and round the edge. I don't know if I can get that area tomorrow to mock up. It depends on where they work on the floor next (it looks so awesome!) I can "see" the 3" difference in the pics... but feel it even more as I stood there. I had one of the helpers look and he felt it made a big difference in the way the clearance appeared. I hope I'm not making too big a deal of it. It's really only a couple of feet. I like the idea that I can turn and pivot and place something on there from the oven. So these are the things I do know: 1. I definitely don't want to do narrow depth all along the window wall... lose too much storage and countertop depth. 2. I could do shelves but I'm not a floor to ceiling or dish hutch type. I don't want that area to look heavy. 3. Corners kinda suck, but I'm stuck with one. 4. THe appliances have to stay where shown. Too much thought and $$$ put into getting it there. I still think that cart was kinda cool. Also might help with the transition if it was a different countertop material. Might be an answer (here I go thinking aloud again) if I could find something cool that was a tad lower then counter height, the narrower depth, and used a different material. Then maybe I could go corner, 30", 18", and something narrower, lowered, and with a different top at 24". Whaddaya think of that idea?

Or, how about this. (See below for the Zone Map) . Laundry: I moved the Washer/Dryer to the other side of the Kitchen so it's closer to the bedrooms. To hide the laundry center when not in use, the washer/dryer is in a cabinet or closet. While it fits your current appliance, it will also fit a stacked washer/dryer if you ever want separate appliances. (I don't know your experience with your all-in-one model, but the reviews I've read about them in general aren't that great - but if you like it, great!) Above the washer/dryer are shelves or cabinets (your choice) for storing laundry detergent, dryer sheets, etc. If in the future you switch to stacked washer/dryer, you can simply remove the shelves/cabinets and put in the stacked appliances. This gives you options. . Kitchen: All perimeter counters are deeper than standard The sink/cooktop counters are 28.5" deep with 27" deep base cabinets (3" deeper than standard. The short counter run on the right is 6" deeper than standard with the upper cabinet to the counter 9" deeper than standard (at 21"D). There are two windows - a 63" one centered over the sink and a 36" on the other side of the cooktop. Both flank the range hood over the cooktop. The 36" window helps to open up the corner and adds more light. There are only two upper cabinets - the Dish Hutch next to the DW and the appliance garage (or other storage) next to the tall oven cabinet. I moved the refrigerator to the other side so it's now next to the DR and is a straight shot from the Living Room. This way, someone looking for a snack or setting the table will not get in the way of someone prepping and/or cooking. The move of the refrigerator also helps keep the workflow consistent with the normal Kitchen workflow of: Refrigerator --> Sink & Prep Zone --> Cooktop/Oven & Cooking Zone Instead of pantry cabinets, I put in a reach-in/step-in built-in pantry. This type of pantry is not only much less expensive, but it's also much more efficient, flexible, and overall useful pantry than cabinets. You can utilize the entire height (ceiling-to-floor), can see everything with one glance (no opening/closing drawers/doors looking for something), and shelves can be adjusted to fit your needs now and in the future. The oven cabinet houses the wall oven and a MW in an alcove. With an alcove rather than a built-in MW, you can easily switch out the MW if it dies; plus, a standard MW in an alcove is less expensive than a built-in MW. Another option is a MW drawer - perhaps in the 24" cabinet next to the prep sink. I was trying to save you drawer space since you want as few uppers as possible and you do not have a separate pantry elsewhere. Above the oven & MW is tray storage for cookie sheets, cooling racks, muffin tins, roasting pans, etc. Next to the oven cabinet is an upper cabinet to the counter for appliances or other storage. This helps to eliminate the "dark corner" that often results from tall cabinets near corners. The upper cabinet is 21" deep - plenty deep enough to house just about any small appliance you can think of. It will also provide you with some deeper storage for items that might require it. Other than appliances, I probably wouldn't store frequently used items, though - unless you're tall. [See the end of this thread for how it might look. I can't easily show the 3D version of the appliance garage - but the upper cabinet is shallower than the base and there's counter b/w them.] The range hood is 6" wider than the cooktop and 24" deep. It's especially important to have the wider & deep hood b/c you do not have upper cabinets flanking the hood to assist it with capturing steam/smoke/grease/odors/etc. I wasn't sure what size the cooktop was, so I put in a 36" wide cooktop. If you're putting in a 30" cooktop, then you have 6" to play with. Personally, I'd increase the space b/w the sink and cooktop those 6" to give you more space to work with either as a tertiary Prep Zone or for the Cooking Zone, but it's your call. There are several Prep Zones in case the two of you want to prep or cook together - or if you have guests who want to help out. Finally, the island. The island has the primary Prep Zone with a generously sized prep sink. You said you like to sit and visit while your DH preps - this provides ample room for that. There are 4 seats arranged in a better configuration for visiting. Sitting all in a row is not conducive to visiting - it's more like sitting with strangers at a diner. By having the seats around the corner like this, it makes it easy to converse with guests! Note that I put an 18" overhang on the end - this is in case you or your DH or guests are tall. 15" is the minimum recommended overhang depth - but it's for short-to-average height people, not tall. I wish I had done an 18-inch overhang instead of 15"! (We're all relatively tall - we range from 5'10" to 6'7".) There is plenty of workspace for your DH! There's also additional workspace if you also help out occasionally or if a guest would like to help. There is plenty of storage on both sides of the island. (I added storage wherever I could to make up for the lack of upper cabinets.) Overall, the island has an area (to the left of the prep sink) with a wonderful expanse of uninterrupted counter for large baking projects (like holiday cookie baking), crafts, wrapping gifts, etc. Here is the layout's zone map. Zone Map: . . Oven cabinet with wall oven + MW + Tray storage and a sample of what it might look like with the appliance garage next to it. . . Tray & platter storage example:

Thank you everyone for your feedback! @benjesbride I guess I just wanted a roomy shower since it is a master. Also at its current layout there is only 2 ft on either side of the tub. So it's very tight in there. There is literally only 15 sq of tile on the floor...I seriously bang my leg on the tub getting to the toilet. So, while I could put a shower where the tub is, it would have to be a little 3x3 corner shower for space concerns. And that feels cheap for a master bath to me, anyways. Perhaps second only to the labor of moving the toilet, is the labor of getting the cinderella tub out.