I heard back from Sansone today with their load calculation. They are saying my total cooling BTU requirement is calculated at 22,984 BTU; but my sensible requirement is 20,394 BTU. A 2-speed 2 ton unit will not provide enough sensible BTUs (around 16K); and a 3 ton will be too much (around 25K) which is over the +15% max parameter. So based on this, that is why they are saying I need a 2.5 ton unit to be sized correctly. The ONLY one they stock is the CA16NA030 (builder model) with the FV4-002 would be priced around $4000. For them to order the 24ABC630 is $600 extra and the 24ACC630 is $1000 extra, saying that it is not recommend. They also said 'for as much as we'd like to sell you a more expensive 2-stage system, your sensible BTU will be under at the 2 ton and over at the 3 ton'. Later today I had another dealer come out (Island Air). I didn't show them the cooling figures I got from Sansone. This other dealer (which is also rated high on Angie's List) said that they could get me the 24ABC630 with FV4-002 for the same $4000 price that Sansone wants for the builder's CA16 model, and the 24ACC630 is $300 more. Then they said as far as a 2 stage 24ACB736 + FV4-002, that I would need the 3 ton, as it would operate at the lower stage (2.5 ton) most of the time and only go to the higher 3 ton stage some in the summer, but only for a short period. It's price at $4600 (same as Sansone, but Sansone says its not the right size). Also, the 5-stage 24AVA936 + FE4-002 would also be at the 3 ton, but with since it has 5 stages, would step down to 2.5, 2, 1.5, 1 ton depending on what is needed. Their pricing it was $5800, again same as Sansone. So at this point I'm not sure which system or dealer to go with.... Sansone (that did the Load Cal) is saying I need 20,394 Sensible BTUs, and the only way to get that is with a 2.5 ton. But the only one they stock is the CA16 builders that I don't want, and their prices for the 24ACC/ABC are way too much. The other dealer (Island Air) doesn't sell the CA16, and the price for their 24ACC/ABC is better than Sansone. But they are also saying that I would be fine with the 2-stage 24ACB736, 24ANB136, or 5-stage 24VNA936, since they would be operating at the lower stage most of time, but at least offer extra cooling BTUs at the higher stage when needed.

Suburbanmd, I actually did run his shirt through 3 sanitize cycles, so maybe it is the soap. Strange thing, on the 10 year old now broken machine, I only used warm/cold setting & FS. Perhaps the FS was masking the smell. Also, we have a recirculating hot water pump that was running, so basically it has instant hot water. Plus, the utility room is the first stop in the hot water loop. I can also verify this, as I just could not resist the temptation to put my hand in the flow of the water to test its temp. I have a load of linens to do tonight or tomorrow that I will do with the Kirkland HE liquid I have on hand and just let the machine do its thing as you say. The linens are not really that soiled, just one night stay by a guest, but still it will be interesting to see how it does and to check the soap level. Janet, it is ironic you mention your model number, as when the delivery folks first delivered my machine and placed it, husband looked at it and said it was not the right one. Turns out it was the WM2016CW! What I do not understand is why of all the models they took the water plus feature out of my chosen model. Do you find that the towels are actually in any water in the drum or have they absorbed it all? Mine has so very little you have to hunt for it and move them over just to find the frog puddle. Maybe this is quite normal for FL machines and being my first, I am used to the concept of water in a wash. I am still concerned about how it will do on the dog blankets and dog hair. How can it rinse the hair out when there is hardly any water? Only trial will tell. Oh, and yesterday it started leaking slightly from the front left hand corner! I wiped up water several times including when I first got up, and no, the only high water time was when it did the error code while wildly filling. I have read that over sudsing can cause leaks, so maybe this high water level reached that point? Then again, it might be something else. Do any of the FL machines actually spray the clothes to rinse them while they are spinning, much like the TL do? It seems like this would add a lot to rinsing the clothes. Thanks, Schutzhund

Yes while the U-value is important, what is more important is to know where the value comes from. If the company is providing the u-value is it a value that is center of glass or is it a whole unit value.. You can not compare the two numbers if they are from separate measurements. An example is I have the Architectural Information for a major window manufacturer. This manufacturer actually provides the whole unit value when you ask for their measurements, but if you dig you can get the center of glass measurements. Their philosophy is they want you to know how the overall unit is going to perform not just the center of the glass which is the most efficient. The center of glass on their casements for a insulated glass two pane system is .25 but the whole window performance is .34. if you went to their triple pane system you could get a center of glass reading of .16 with a whole unit reading of .25. Many companies will only give you the center of glass readings because they put the window in the best operating light but it is not reflective of how the overall window will perform. The second factor you want to take into consideration is the DP rating (design Pressure)Some manufacturers will call it performance number and may be specified with an R or a C r being a residential classification and C being a commercial classification, the reason they give two different readings is due to installation differences and construction types. I just happen to have some Pella readings here in front of me and on a Pella casement it gives a DP of 50 on a venting unit for their architect series and a rating of up to 70 on their designer series. The higher the number the better it is going to stand up in bad weather conditions such as driving rain and high winds. Pellas double hungs are performing at a dp rating of 50 also. Pellas 8 foot wide by 6/8 high slider is posting DP ratings of 65 which is one of the best rated sliders on the market. The third factor you want to look at is the VLT or visible light transmittance...how much sunlight is let through as a percentage of possible light that could come through. The fourth major rating you need to consider is the SHGC or the heat gain coefficient. This is kind of a catch 22 becasue in the winter time Heat Gain is a good thing, and in the summer it is a bad thing. SO when you are considering this number you want to think of what is the most important season to your area. On casements if you are going to have them open most of the summer then it is not as much a factor but a double hung will let heat in all summer. If you are in the city or a high noise area such as near an airport, or race track, maybe even a busy lake with al ot of boats then you may want to consider the sound transmittance not only inside to out (STC rating) which helps protect your privacy, but also the Outside to Inside rating which is how does outside sound travel into to the inside of the window, in other words how much road noise, boat noise, plane noise are you going to hear inside the house. Well that is a short lesson for window operational efficiency. I hope it helps

Lower frequency ranges (i.e. traffic noise) are a more difficult noise to cancel so keep that in mind. Getting the windows installed properly and well sealed is priority number 1 so keep that in mind in any product you choose. To what performance improvement and net cancellation they Infinity with the offset glazing will give you is really a case by case basis and what you are comfortable with. This might be a situation where you try to find a room with the fewest windows and try them there and see what they net you in terms of desired performance. I don't want to suggest that you throw money away but if you buy all the windows and expect "X" performance and don't get it, that is a more expensive and frustrating undertaking. There are not guarantees on windows for sound unless you are dealing with specific STC designated windows.