If wind is the main concern, casements/awnings are going to give the lowest air infiltration rating of any operable window. Don't make the mistake of choosing windows based solely on U-factors. That would be the equivalent of purchasing an automobile based solely on it's MPG rating.

You should also be very focused on the quality of the installation. Never assume that because a window dealer has been in business a long time that they have experienced installers. Ask lots of questions about the install technics and the insulation used. In your case, I would demand they use low expansion foam instead of fiberglass.

Very good advice from Sky.

The IG unit, no matter how energy efficient, is only as good as the surrounding sash, frame and installation.

And, unfortunately some of the largest dealers employ subs of subs of subs and many of the installers have no interest in your successful and correct installation.

Shop wisely and interview. Have each installer write out the installation procedures and then make sure the one you hire follows them.

Michael

We are prepared to use someone who is very familiar with our weather issues. He installs roofing and windows and has been on our roof a few times replacing shingles. Willing to get any window we request. He actually has reinforced most of the shingles for us b/c the builder hired sub-par workers to install the roof when our house was initially built.

We will be sure he uses the foam insulation vs fiberglass.

I have tried going on the window ratings website to search, but it seems you have to go under each manufacturer. Is there an easier way? I also read the other post about the Superspacer and I am not very familiar with any of the manuf. names listed as using the superspacer..only Simonton.

So, no recommendations at all to help me along the process?? Believe me I have been doing lots of research from this forum. I am not one who flies by day and wants everyone else to do my homework for me. Alot of contractors do not like me b/c I am too informed for them and sometimes more on top of their product than they are. (most recently our pool builder...he could not stand me!!)

Thx.

check out PH tech products. There could be a ph tech distributor in your area. Great product!! U values as low as .19

www.phtech.ca

It's difficult to say "go buy this window" because everyone has their own needs and budget. Some of the Nationally known companies like Simonton, Gorell, Milgard, Soft-lite, Sunrise and others have a good reputation for consistent quality. OTOH there are many smaller single factory operations that also produce fine quality windows.

Not trying to disparage your choice of installer, but unless he has a lot of experience with low expansion foams like Hilti and a lot of experience installing the specific window you decide on, I'd pass on him.

Super Spacer is great and has been around for many years so it's not really anything new. Some like it, some don't see any huge benefit. Our main brand is Simonton and most of the windows we sell are with Intercept Spacer. We have had very few problems with it and in the mid-Atlantic U.S. there's less benefit than in more extreme climates IMO. Super Spacer is going to cost about $20-$30. more per window so it's up to the individual to decide if it's worth the upgrade.

I own a PHTech (Silensia) patio door off my dining room. It's 8 years old and looks and operates like new. They make some great products up there in Canada.

ProVia offers the PHTech patio door with their name brand of Prestige.

Michael

If you are looking for a window that offers low-maintenance and energy efficiency for a period of time greater than 5-10 years, I would not suggest using a disposable plastic or vinyl window.

You've mentioned U-value, but air infiltration is just as important, if not more important. Plastic and vinyl materials have high expansion coefficients which cause these materials to expand and contract during temperature changes. This expansion and contraction over a period of time causes this material to crystalize, or become hard and brittle. These plastic or vinyl materials also become deformed, which allows air infiltration around moveable parts. Either way, these are short term products that don't provide the energy savings you are seeking over an extended time period.

Test studies have shown that the highest quality plastic/vinyl window will test at approximately half (50%) of the manufacturers ratings when it has been subjected to environmental temperature swings over a short period of time. In contrast, the worst wood windows retained 85% of their initial ratings. If you are looking for more than U-value ratings, I'd suggest staying away from plastic/vinyl windows.

Additionally, modern technology can achieve modest U-value ratings in the .30 range while utilizing dual insulated glass. To achieve lower ratings, one must utilize triple pane glass technology. The down side to the triple pane glass is the additional weight of the extra pane of glass, and the additional seals required. The latter will double a windows exposure to seal failures, and regardless of warranties, it is a pain (pane) to have to replace glass.

Find a decent U-value in a good quality wood window that offers low air-infiltration. Good quality manufacturers can help design your glass requirements by using low SHGC glass products on your homes elevation that requires it.

Wow....that is all I can about this post directly above.

Some of the worst and most baseless propaganda I have ever seen.

You wouldn't to happen to work for a wood window company "wood" you?

Why don't you post up some of those test studies for all of us to read and evaluate?

I sell both wood and vinyl and wouldn't ever utter some of the lies that you are claiming.

Crystallized and hard and brittle? Wow. Pure bunk.

Why don't you post up what some of the air infiltration rating on your wood windows are and post up what they are after about 3 years of drying out and continuing to shrink.

BTW, air infiltration accounts for maybe 10% of the windows efficiency on the total.

Copied from Tru_Blu....

Many competitors grossly exaggerate the expansion and contraction of UPVC. For example, if you had even a 6-foot UPVC frame manufactured at a temperature of 60 degrees F, It would only expand or contract about the thickness of a nickel at 110 degrees or 10 degrees.

Yes while the U-value is important, what is more important is to know where the value comes from. If the company is providing the u-value is it a value that is center of glass or is it a whole unit value.. You can not compare the two numbers if they are from separate measurements.

An example is I have the Architectural Information for a major window manufacturer. This manufacturer actually provides the whole unit value when you ask for their measurements, but if you dig you can get the center of glass measurements. Their philosophy is they want you to know how the overall unit is going to perform not just the center of the glass which is the most efficient. The center of glass on their casements for a insulated glass two pane system is .25 but the whole window performance is .34. if you went to their triple pane system you could get a center of glass reading of .16 with a whole unit reading of .25. Many companies will only give you the center of glass readings because they put the window in the best operating light but it is not reflective of how the overall window will perform.

The second factor you want to take into consideration is the DP rating (design Pressure)Some manufacturers will call it performance number and may be specified with an R or a C r being a residential classification and C being a commercial classification, the reason they give two different readings is due to installation differences and construction types. I just happen to have some Pella readings here in front of me and on a Pella casement it gives a DP of 50 on a venting unit for their architect series and a rating of up to 70 on their designer series. The higher the number the better it is going to stand up in bad weather conditions such as driving rain and high winds. Pellas double hungs are performing at a dp rating of 50 also. Pellas 8 foot wide by 6/8 high slider is posting DP ratings of 65 which is one of the best rated sliders on the market.

The third factor you want to look at is the VLT or visible light transmittance...how much sunlight is let through as a percentage of possible light that could come through.

The fourth major rating you need to consider is the SHGC or the heat gain coefficient. This is kind of a catch 22 becasue in the winter time Heat Gain is a good thing, and in the summer it is a bad thing. SO when you are considering this number you want to think of what is the most important season to your area. On casements if you are going to have them open most of the summer then it is not as much a factor but a double hung will let heat in all summer.

If you are in the city or a high noise area such as near an airport, or race track, maybe even a busy lake with al ot of boats then you may want to consider the sound transmittance not only inside to out (STC rating) which helps protect your privacy, but also the Outside to Inside rating which is how does outside sound travel into to the inside of the window, in other words how much road noise, boat noise, plane noise are you going to hear inside the house.

Well that is a short lesson for window operational efficiency. I hope it helps

Why not advise the consumer to just ask for U-factors and avoid the U-Value COG (Center of Glass) confusion altogether?