Master Bathroom Design/style
4 years ago
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help designing a master bathroom 13'x5'
Comments (39)So you have two issues: the shut-off valves need to be accessible in case you have to shut of water to the bathroom to do repairs, have a leak, etc. That's what's in the access panel in the corner of the room that we're trying to find another place for... The shower valves are behind the handles ("trim"), behind the tile, inside the shower wall. Since you're considering doing away with the access you currently have and creating a finished, tiled wall on that wall, you want to be sure that all the plumbing in there is in top notch shape and won't need replacing soon. In a situation where there's just drywall on the other side of the tiled wall, it's not a big deal to cut out the drywall, replace the valves, replace the drywall, finish and repaint. Doing the same thing on a tiled wall is a lot harder and more expensive. You just need to think about how you'd handle that scenario in the future (for your new shower plumbing) and if I were you, and you have the budget, I'd go ahead and replace the valves in the old shower, from the back of the wall while you're reno-ing the new bathroom. (Although I have only done this from the front/tiled side, I am pretty sure it can be done from the back side without damaging the tile) Then you won't need to remove the old bath's tile at all. Your old bathroom probably has the sort of showerhead/handle/faucet/valve that comes all together as a kit... but in your new shower you're likely to be buying seperate valves & trim. It's kinda confusing, depending on what you're adding (just a showerhead and one control? Or, also a handshower or body jets?) Keep in mind when you start shopping for these parts that if you do it a la carte from Kohler, Grohe, etc, you need to get a valve and trim (that's the guts and the shiny handle) for each component. I was dismayed at first because I found the picture of the handle I wanted on an online plumbing store and thought to myself, well, that's not too expensive!... it was like $100... and then realized that was the TRIM ONLY and I still needed the valve which was another $200!...See MoreMaster Bathroom cottage style
Comments (7)It sounds like you have a very well-defined design vision in mind, which is a good thing. But IMO, there's no more durable floor for a bathroom than tile - stone, porcelain or ceramic. One of the prettiest floors I've ever seen that might work well in a cottage bath is a diamond-checkerboard in two soft-contrast colors. By soft contrast, I mean not black and white, but two colors that are close in tone depth, or even the same color but one in matte, the other gloss. I think the prettiest one I ever saw was done in travertine and grey limestone. Just enough contrast for visual interest, but not enough to be distracting. A warm octagon-shaped terra-cotta style tile could also be lovely and cottagey. Or a cobblestone look. I would not do wood in a bathroom because you're just daring something to leak! And wood-look tile -- well, they just seem fake....See MoreHelp with Master Bathroom Design
Comments (17)Gather all of the tools you use when doing your hair and makeup. Determine the space you need for the things you use. Figure out how to incorporate a magnifying makeup mirror so that you can apply your makeup. One nice thing about having the makeup area next to a side wall is that your makeup mirror can be on a swing arm attached to that wall. center spaces generally require a stand alone mirror. Make sure you can plug everything in at one time. Curling irons, blow dryers, makeup mirror. If you have a two level counter the outlets can be placed on the edge of the lower counter. If they are on a back wall they hang in front of you and you loose the extra cord length needed when doing the back of your hair. If you use anything that plugs in near the sink make sure your outlets are correctly placed so the cord doesn't hang over the sink. This was one of my mom's only complaints. My dad was left handed and had all of the outlets placed on the left side of all of the sinks throughout the home. For the next 40 years she and 5 of the 6 kids had cords hanging across the sink because they were not left handed. My niece was able to figure out a way to hang her blow dryer and curling irons on a wall and keep them all plugged in. All you have to do is pick up the blow dryer and turn it on. Sounds lazy, but how many of us leave our curling irons lay out on the counter because we don't want to put them away hot? Hers sits across 2 metal hooks and when she is done using it she simply sets it back on the hooks. I have not been able to get this to work in my space, but I am still looking for ideas....See MoreDesign help - bathroom/master bath
Comments (75)I could see the advantages of the closet and the bathroom being at the one side with the remainder area for bedroom. However, that design doesn't have the same charm as closets either side of a window seat. At this point, I would work to make the addition fit the style of the existing space. For example, vintage homes pre WWII often had charming built in cupboards and wardrobes but those weren't as common in the post war cape cods and mid century ranches. Houses built in the last 40 years are likely to have walk in closets where those are rare in vintage houses. I like to see additions which match closely to the existing house and, in the best circumstances, can't be distinguished from the original portion at first glance. So, my final choice of floor plan would be greatly influenced by the age and style of the house. I don't care for putting the toilet at the end of a 5 foot tunnel; 30 to 36 inches would be quite enough. I also would not like a shower tunnel, especially one without a door. I like an enclosed shower area that I can get quite warm and not feel any drafts. In an addition of that size, I would expect a shower larger than 3 x 4 feet. At a minimum, I would be looking for 42 x 54 or 48 x 48. If the master suite has a king sized bed, I expect a king sized shower too!...See More- 4 years ago
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