Hardwood floor replacement issues
Crystal Howley
4 years ago
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Comments (9)
sambah006
4 years agoG & S Floor Service
4 years agoRelated Discussions
engineered hardwood floor over old hardwood floor
Comments (14)You need to do a little more archeological digging still. You need to know the whole construction of the floor before you can decide how best to install something new. I'd take up that plywood piece in the kitchen and see what's under it. It's higher than the surrounding floor, so needs to go. You should also be able to see from there what subfloor is under the original kitchen hardwood. It's too bad the space under your entryway is finished, but I'd still do some exploring from below to see what's under there, and to figure out the fix to stop it from squeaking. Is it drywall below or a drop ceiling? I know it probably seems like a pain to tear out drywall, but if you cut out a clean patch, like 2' x the width of the joists, it'll be relatively simple to repair. Just make sure to cut it down the center of the joists so that there's room to screw the patch piece to it later. Cut the hole under the area that squeaks the most, if you can. Have someone walk on and watch the floor from below to see what's moving. It might be as simple as pounding in a couple shims from below, or face-nailing a loose board from above. You want to find out what's underneath the hardwood. It might be laid directly on the floor joists, or there might be 10" wide boards that the hardwood is nailed to. Another thought is to take out a board in the hallway, since that's not original and you want to replace it. See what the subfloor is there. I am a bit puzzled at why, when you've stripped the kitchen down to the original hardwood, it's still higher than the hallway floor. Is your current surface perhaps not the original kitchen hardwood? Peeling back the plywood area will help determine that. BTW, I haven't heard of that stop squeaking product you linked to, so can't offer any personal opinion. And don't pour self-leveling compound over top of hardwood. It needs to go over plywood....See MoreReplacing old hardwood with new hardwood, questions.
Comments (7)I'm curious to see the replies. My son almost bought an older house, 1951, the wood under the carpet is about 2"wide strips looks like solid wood, but seems to have a lot of nails. Is that how it was done back then? I wondered how it would look if he had them finished, but he backed out of the deal after the inspection. We are about to tear out decent wood because the sun has faded it and since it is not a big area it would cost a lot to refinish, and I hear the refinished floor would need to be done again much sooner than a new prefinished. I wish I could take out the old wood in a way that it could be used by someone, but I think it will get wrecked. The store I am using charges $3 sf to install it, the wood price obviously varies. They use their own employees, no subs, and did a nice job on our mbr and hall, so I will use them even though I dont know what an independent installer would charge. My maple will cost $5.54 sf, plus install....See MoreHardwood Flooring in Old Colonial - Contractor Issue
Comments (5)When you post photos, you need to leave the page alone until the upload is complete. And remember: photos must be in jpg format. The time isn't a big deal. Most contractors offer 1 year warranty on materials/labour. The plank width must have been well documented in the contract. The purchase order will show what was PURCHASED. It is possible the wrong wood was delivered (aka. what was ordered was not delivered). This is rare but it happens. Doesn't matter. You have your contract. Pull it out and contact the contractor. Use email with photos (of the contract and the wood installed). Use email = paper trail. Please try to load photos in your next post. That would help....See MoreHardwood floor finish issue?
Comments (2)They did NOT show you samples with a coat of finish over top. That's part of why these look a little different. The shade difference could be a multitude of things..sanding being one of them. The can they pulled the stain from could be another. Or even the TIMING of the stain application under the appliances is also another. Or it could be raw. The 'haziness' is coming from the gray. Gray is a combination of white and black. White is OPAQUE like milk. Black can be CLEAR (you can see through it = transparent). Like coca cola. When you MIX opaque with clear you get something in between, you get TRANSLUCENT (you see light coming through but you cannot see the light source). Translucent, like a frosted shower glass, is HAZY. It is part of the world of physics and chemistry. It is just what white does. If you had gone AWAY from gray, you would not have this hazy issue...assuming something didn't go wrong. Now onto the AMOUNT of COATS the finish was given? How many coats did you pay for? How long did they wait from stain application to FIRST COAT of polyurethane application? Each minwax stain has it's own 'dry time'. Some are 24 hours, others are 72 hours under PERFECT conditions. To get Bona to work over top of minwax these dry times MUST be adhered to. If your stain needed (say) 36 hours but the refinishers gave it 8 hours, then there are issues to be had with Bona. For this reason, we always suggest using the colours produced by the company that makes the finish. Ie. Bona stains coated by Bona coating system. But bona stains are expensive AND tricky to work with. And BONA is tricky to work with. Bona traffic is SUPER tricky to work with. Whew. Lots of tricky things going on here....See MoreCrystal Howley
4 years agoG & S Floor Service
4 years agocat_ky
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoci_lantro
4 years agoDavidR
4 years agoG & S Floor Service
4 years agolast modified: 4 years ago
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