Is this door transition/threshold OK? Trim notched, visible screws
AMS
4 years ago
Hi all,
I'm in the midst of a budget remodel using IKEA cabinets. I had a contractor install the cabinets and new Marmoleum click flooring (which I love!). I'd like advice on whether the threshold / transition that was put in place is typical (spoiler alert - I don't like it!).
Despite removing layers of old flooring, the new Marmoleum floor still ended up about ~3/8 higher than the wood flooring in the adjacent dining area. I asked for a transition piece, made of wood, to span the opening - which is quite wide - 5 feet. I didn't give much guidance other than that, which I acknowledge is my fault.
I came home to a skinny threshold attached with 5 visible screws (not countersunk), and notched out quarter round trim. It's not stained yet - that's fine. The transition piece is actually higher than the higher flooring - so it makes the step up feel even higher. Is this typical? I was expecting no visible fasteners, and was hoping for a lower profile 'taller' piece of wood (e.g., the width of the wall). Do you think this can be rectified?
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What do you do at the door transition?
Comments (9)Doesn't matter. You can use either a marble OR (for the OP's benefit) a wood threshold between tile and ANY other flooring material. The marble is thick also, is it meant to be a "bump" in the floor? I just cannot see it being flat to the tile and wood floor Although many people do request that a marble threshold be flush with their floor on atleast the bathroom side, this is actually wrong. Johnmari is right. The whole reason why marble thresholds used to be REQUIRED at all bathroom doors was to provide a small dam at the doorway to guard against minor flooding, from say, kids splashing in a tub, or a minor toilet overflow. Mowers-- you're doing fine. You were right to install that plywood. What you had before wasn't NEARLY enough, and what you've put down now brings it up to where it should be. One thing to think about-- instead of using 1/4" CBU, what about using Ditra instead? It's only 1/8" thick, as opposed to the 1/4" of the CBU, and it'll provide alot more protection against movement to your floor. As for the heating mats, I don't see a problem with that, either (OVER the Ditra, not under). About the only thing you'll have to do is undercut your bathroom door, and maybe use a flange extension on your toilet flange, if it's already set....See MoreNew here, question about flooring transition
Comments (8)Hi, and thanks for the responses! Under the tile is 1/2" plywood. We originally had planned to have tile here (we're the original owners), then changed our minds. Our builder told us we'd be able to put tile down anytime - that the 1/2" plywood would be ok. It wouldn't surprise me if this is something else he was less than honest about. The area with the tile is very small, maybe 4x4. Oh, and I know the pictures don't show it, but the tile is higher than the carpet, but not by a whole lot. There isn't a horrible height difference right now. If we extend the tile any farther, it will look really weird. Right now the tile/carpet edge is right at the edge of the stairs. So if the tile ran any farther, it would jut out past the stairs. I have a pic hubby took while doing this that might show what I'm trying to describe. Notice where the edge of the stairs is. This entryway extends through the living room to the kitchen, so the only option we'd have for extending the tile would be to extend it all the way, which would look really weird! I think... So hubby talked to some work friends (weekend warriors) about this today and here's what they suggested. Use a rubber mallet to "pound" the curved metal carpet gripper as flat as possible. Then buy some wooden carpet -> tile transition, the kind with pre-drilled screw holes on top, and just screw the transition down into the subfloor so it "covers" the existing metal stuff, the tile edges, and part of the carpet. Kind of like this: *sigh* Is this salvageable? :( I know we can cover the wall edge with quarter round, but then there's still the issue of what to do with the tile edge that hits against the threshold/door area... Normally I'm picky about aesthetics, but right now I just want this to be done. :(...See MoreNeuma doors
Comments (114)we have had our Neuma door for about 10 years and I love the door but have always had problems getting parts but i read these blogs and oh what a blessing i found , Sergio Casas ! so much help , the best ever !!! he is sending replacement parts today Thank you so much Sergio and I agree with everyone else you deserve a big raise !...See MoreLayout for Review/Input - Appreciate any and all help!
Comments (12)You're welcome. Can you put a lower counter below the one window on the left wall? If it's the right height for a baking counter, say 33", that would make a nice baking center for you. If that's possible, here's another idea. Move the DO to the lower end of the left wall with a pantry cab between it and the wall. Then add a lower counter below the window, spanning the distance between DO cabs and cabs on upper side of the left wall. Then turn the island perpendicular to its present position and shift it over to give you enough aisle space between perimeter cabs and island. Rhome has only 36" between prep area and cooktop and it works for her but most prefer 42". This eliminates the butt to butt problem of sink, DW and cooktop. On the backside of the island, go with a raised curved counter with seating facing the baking center. This eliminates the in-a-row seating that makes conversation harder and also provids a buffer between seaters and cooktop activity (a pop-up downdraft helps with that, too). These changes mean that fridge traffic no longer crosses the work zones so you can eliminate the undercabinet fridge. You can increase to a 36" fridge if you need more room. Oh, one thing just popped out at me. You wrote that you're doing standard depth fridge but your plan shows a fridge with CD dimensions. A standard depth fridge will stick out several inches more than you show. You could take the money you would have spent on a fridge and undercab fridge and get a CD fridge instead and gain more aisle space. I'm talking stand alone, not built-in. If the window doesn't allow for a 33" or 34" counter, you could still put one in front of it, just do a "floating" counter. A GWer did such a thing for her sink in an old house. Wish I could remember who it was.... It was clever and allowed her to put counter where one wouldn't think counter could go. Until I remember who it is, here's my recollection of how it works. She has cabinets up to the window sill, then open space in front of the window between lower cabs and counter. You could leave this clear or put baskets there for storage. The unfitted look would be appropriate for your old home's age. Heck, if this look works for you, you can go with standard height counters and have a really nice long counter run, perfect for baking prep....See More
AMS
4 years agoAMS
4 years agoAMS
4 years agoSJ McCarthy
4 years ago
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