Blending new space with old
James Weinberg
4 years ago
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tedbixby
4 years agoJ Williams
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Endless quest for pink blend/yellow blend/pink-yellow blend
Comments (43)So many good suggestions still coming in--appreciate that. I won't be ordering until after Thanksgiving (or maybe after Xmas), so I'm open to any more beautiful ideas. I'm looking them all up. Some I kinda know. But I don't know much of anything about Mrs. Dudley Cross, cherrykist. Is it hardy in Zone 6? HMF say Zone 7--but I know it is sometimes rather conservative on hardiness. And I'm not sure about its height since HMF says 3-5 ft (or something like that). What is your experience--does it stay around 3 ft? It is a lovely rose, but not a type I have ever seen, so I'm not sure what to think about it. It's really cool looking at all the gorgeous pics--thanks everyone. Kate...See MoreNew wood/old wood... will the new wood blend with old in 6-8 mont
Comments (3)It is pretty easy to get a decent match on older wood - if you are willing to pay! There are numerous companies that specialize in reclaimed lumber. They would be able to match you up with some planks from the same time period and mill them to match yours. We just did that with heart pine in a 1912 house. It is not cheap though. Lumber, milling, installation/weaving, sanding and finishing came in over $25/sq ft. Fortunately it was just a few small patches. If you are just trying to make a new board look "old" - good luck. Modern lumber just isn't going to have the same look as the old growth trees they were logging 100 years ago. If you can swap out some boards from a closet for "free" that is a better option. As for the costs, ripping up 2 sections and repairing them obviously will cost more than just 1 section. For the urine damaged areas - whose idea was it to just sand? If you asked him to do it to save some money on repairs and now don't like the look, expect to pay to have it fixed. If you left it up to the contractor as to which boards to replace and which to salvage and he just did a poor job, then he should stand by his work and fix it....See MoreFrom old home to new - or new to old? What does it feel like?
Comments (30)I love old houses - the quality, the history (I was THRILLED when I saw the names of the owners of our then under 5 year old house on the 1930 census), and the style. If I don't win the lottery, I will never live in another "new" build (80's and up) because the vast majority of non custom built homes are just not up to my standards. Of the 4 new builds I lived in in my life, only two were decent. The last decent one had been built by a guy who had previously done commercial building. It was built to last and I have no doubt that one would still stand after a tornado. Because of the commercial background, the finish "prettyness" wasn't there, but those details were added later, by us. The last new build was a nightmare. The "quality" semi custom build was so lacking that I can't even imagine how much worse some of the mass produced really poor quality houses will last. Within the first 5 years the deck was partially rotting (no flashing between the house and it), the roof leaked at the chimney, many of the windows wouldn't work well and/or leaked at the top, lots of the trim wood was rotting out and the floors of both 1st and 2nd floor creaked in almost every spot as did the entire staircase. And then of course you had the "minor" issues like one couldn't use a hairdryer in the master bath before resetting the outlet in the upstairs bath if someone had used a hairdryer in it before the master bath. And the defective shingles requiring a complete reroof at 3 years is hard to forget. My brother has a friend who last year moved into a house in one of those new mass built neighbourhoods in South Carolina. Brand new. 6 months after moving in, a water pipe junction burst (iirc, they thought it hadn't been correctly connected or something) in the attic while they were on vacation and ruined most of the house and their items. The builder denied responsibility and the insurance company was blaming it on the builder since the house was still under "warranty" and it was turning into a huge mess, to say the least. New does not equal free of work and I'd rather strip wallpaper than deal with finding out what corners were cut....See MoreBlending Old Wood Floors with New Modern Addition
Comments (5)Watch out for vinyl...it normally doesn't like in-floor radiant heat. Then again neither does wood (engineered hardwood can be used...but it must be SPECIFICALLY designed for in-floor radiant heat). Cork is out. Carpet is in. Concrete is in. Tile is in. Stone is in. Linoleum is out (doesn't like heat). A concrete floor should cost around $7-$18/sf...depending on what you do with the colour. A fully functional clear epoxy coating (with the appropriate aggregate used) is $7/sf. If you want to add colour you can climb the ladder very quickly into the $18/sf range. A STUNNING 'artistic' stained concrete floor with 3+ colours = $18-$25/sf. That includes the coat of clear epoxy. Be aware of concrete's maintenance needs. It is a high-maintenance floor if you do it 'on the cheap'. You can grind concrete and then polish...that's nice but you still need to pay for the proper micro-topping. That's the base floor for $5/sf. It stains. It etches. It is a dusty headache. If you 'seal it' with a wax like application (add another $1/sf) you need to reapply the wax every 6-12months...for ever. If you seal it with urethane (low end finish) you need to reseal it every 2 years...forever. You can seal it AND add wax every 4-6 months. But you have to keep doing that for a LONG time. And then every 5th application you need to strip the floors and start all over again. Clear epoxy is your toughest finish that still keeps the look of 'concrete'. It does not need maintenance. But the price tag starts to go up quickly. And you still need the expensive finishing concrete we call a 'microtopping'. If you are looking for economical...concrete probably isn't you best bet. Carpet is better bang for your buck....See MoreJames Weinberg
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