floor boards separating and cracking
laurienj9
4 years ago
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Help Please-grout cracking/tile separating in new bathroom
Comments (9)Curb movement like that is typically from a wood-built curb (stacked 2-by lumber, for example) that is absorbing moisture and expanding/swelling. How is moisture getting to the curb? Could be one of several things. Not sure how conscientious the installer was in terms of making sure the shower pan membrane is sloped (versus laying the membrane flat on a flat subfloor), or how he detailed the membrane over the curb. It's possible there are nails through the top or inside faces of the curb (and thus through the membrane) and moisture is getting through the nail holes. It's possible that he built you a perfect curb but used wet pressure-treated wood and the PT wood is warping as it dries. Or your house is on a slab, and he put the wood right on the slab. Moisture through the slab is causing the wood curb to expand. So it could be one of several things. It should be fairly easy to diagnose though, as the tiles are popping off on the outside face of the curb. They'll have to be removed eventually to diagnose and repair. When they are removed, take a look to see what's in there. Post photos if you can. To give you a bit of an education as to how a typical CPE-membraned shower with a wood curb is built, check out Harry's pictorial. Note that Harry's membrane is "draped" over the wood curb. That there are no nails/screws on the top or inside face of the curb. That the lathe (wire mesh) is bent in a "U" shape and it's simply the inverted "U" bends that hold it over the curb. Again, there are no fasteners through the lathe and into the top or inside face of the curb. I have seen instances where the membrane gets draped over the wood curb, then the installer nails cement board on the three faces of the curb and tiles on the cement board. Not good. Again, nails through the membrane on the top and inside face are a no-no. I don't see screws through the bottom track of your door frame that go into the curb. That's good. Best, Mongo...See Morehow to fill cracks on old hard wood flooring
Comments (2)OK, my take on it, is to get the interior up to the highest rH it will see in the humid season(NOW), for a week or longer. Then fill the gaps. This allows the wood to swell to its largest dimensions, and won't squeeze the filler out, as it will, filling during the winter-heating-dryingout, months and come the humid months and the floor swells. During the winter, the floor will shrink, unless you have a humidifier. You will see gaps appear....See MoreBar top cracking and separating
Comments (13)I don't understand the joinery for the bar top if he used solid wood. There's no room for the boards to move the way he has them mechanically interlocked with the cross-grain pieces. Cross-grain joints are always an area where you have to be careful with woodworking. Solid wood is going to move, that's just a fact. What you design for is how you want to have the wood move. You can fasten/glue in the middle and allow the wood to move toward both ends, or you can fasten one end and allow the wood to move towards the other end. There's joinery that allows for movement without glue, such as pinned sliding tenons, sliding dovetails, wide slots for fasteners, etc. Those techniques allow you have tight joints while allowing the wood to move. If you look at your bar top photo, you can see that the boards in the middle have no way to move due to the way they're interleaved with the boards going the other direction. You get stress cracks like yours when the wood wants to move but can't. If your guy has been in business for 30 years as you say, this should all be second nature for him so perhaps there's something I'm missing from the photos. But the cracks are right there, so maybe not. Plywood is a different story as those are pretty stable and don't move much, particularly mdf core. Anyway bottom line is you have a crack where there shouldn't be. You don't need to be an expert to know that ain't right....See MoreBathroom Floor - Backer Board/Cement board the norm?
Comments (10)Whether the mud job is good or not will depend on the materials used, and the skill of the installer. A true mud job involves lath and mortar (cement, coarse sand and water) packed in to the lath and then a second layer of mortar troweled over the top. Done well this will give a strong, flat and level floor. Cement backer boards have now largely taken the place of this labor intensive process. Lath and a thin layer of thinset is a "Jersey mud job". Thinset is made with fine sand and is not strong enough to form a strong base. When you have a solid floor you would ideally put down something like Ditra or a crack isolator membrane and then you would set the tiles in thinset. So to summarize: plywood, cement board (or a good mud job), membrane product and then tile. The use of OSB might also be an issue...plywood is recommended...See MoreSJ McCarthy
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