I, too, would have loved a dual fuel range. However, our house is a single story, no basement(Florida) and the kitchen is in the middle of the house(no outside wall). I bought a Bosch HES7282U in August and have been VERY happy with it. This is my third smoothtop electric range and the difference between this one and the others is night and day. Superb results with convection bake, roast and broil, and the elements are very responsive to changes in temperature setting.....unlike the other ranges I've had. I highly recommend it. Hope this helps. Jane

Vocabulary can be a slippery thing. From your photo and your budget, I'm guessing that you aren't actually thinking about a "stove" or "range" -- at least, not as those terms are usually understood around here. Am I correct that what you want to do is yank out that radiant electric downdraft cooktop (Jenn Aire?) and drop in a 36" wide induction cooktop while adding an overhead vent? Also, am I correct that budget of $3k has to cover both the cooktop and vent hood? If so, I have some suggestions for things to consider. First, cooktop cutouts sizes vary between model years and brands. You might be able to open up the cabinets and drawers in the island and find a way to measure the dimensions of the existing cut-out from below. Or, take your cooktop's model number and do an online search for a pdf of the install instructions which will have the dimensions of the cut-out. Then, check those specs against the specs for the induction cooktops you might be considering. Depending on the particular induction cooktop you are considering, it might: (a) fit in the existing cut-out; (b) you might have to trim one or more sides to enlarge the cut-out (which means budgeting for the work unless your countertop is something other than the stone it looks like in your photo and you have the diy skills and tools to make the necessary cuts); or (c) the existing cut-out may be too big for some induction cooktops, in which case you have to figure out how to (and budget for) build up the rim support under the cooktop. Second, I'm recalling that some of the older Jenn Aire radiant electric downdraft cooktops were actually 42" wide. Is yours one one of those? If so, it rather narrows your choices of induction cooktops. All of the 42" induction cooktops --- at least all of the ones that I can think of off the top of my head --- are from expensive brands like Miele which will eat up most of your $3k budget. If your present cooktop is a 42" model, you might consider going with a 36" model and have some sort of cosmetic and structural cover fabricated (maybe in stainless steel) to cover the gaps and provide support. I'm guessing a new countertop for the island is not in the budget. Third, Green Designs mentioned a possible need for an electrical upgrade. Here's what that means if you did not understand the comment. Some 36" induction cooktops can run on a 40 amp circuit but many require a 50 amp circuit. Not so many years ago, 36" radiant electric cooktops might only have been wired to a 40 amp circuit. Seeing the existing downdraft radiant cooktop makes me suspect that the existing electrical circuit probably is a 50 amp circuit. Only you or an electrician on site can determine whether that is the case. You need to verify that you already you have 50 amp service (checking the circuit breaker may be the fastest way to do that). Otherwise, there are not many 36" induction cooktops that now are rated to run on a 40 amp circuit. Frigidaire comes to mind as one, and worth considering in light of your target budget. Fourth, the vent hood is going to be more expensive. As Jaykaym says, the Home Depot unit is out of consideration because it is a wall hung model. The linked Cavaliere is an island hood but it is only 30" wide, which is too narrow for your cooktop. At least, look at the 36" wide model. The basic problem you have to solve with any hood is that steam and etc. spread out as they rise. Think of the plume of cooking effluent as an upside down cone that gets wider as it rises. You want the hood wide enough to capture as much of the plume as possible. so that the fan grabs as much of the plume as it can. Too small a hood and, no matter how powerful the fan, you will be raising the plume up higher and spreading some of it further around the kitchen. Lots of very detailed advice here on fan and hood sizing over the years (particularly from Kaseki, our resident vent guru) if you care to search for details. The rule of thumb around here for decades has been that you want the hood to be at least three inches wider in each dimension than the cooktop it hangs above. With a 36" wide cooktop, the standard advice is to look for a 42" wide hood. You can go narrower with a wall mounted hood because the backwalls and cabinets to help confine the rising plume. No such aids for an over-island hood. That said, budget constrains your choices, which likely means looking at something for $100 more, such as the 36" version of the hood in your link. It will be better than nothing and, indeed, will be noticeably more effective than the existing downdraft unit. Be aware that running a 900 CFM fan into a 6" duct will be considerably noisier than better (but maybe less affordable) choices. Fifth, speaking of that 900 CFM fan, have you looked into make-up air (MUA)? Do you have any gas appliances (say, furnaces or water heaters) or fireplaces? Unless you have an adequate source of MUA for what your hood is sucking out of the house, running a strong vent fan can backdraft copious amounts of carbon monoxide into the living spaces. Also, more and more localities are adopting code provisions that require MUA for range hoods with fans rated to draw 400 cfm or above. Best check your local codes before anbody starts cutting holes in the ceiling and roof.

IPI is Intermittent Pilot Ignition and all the IPI components are below the fireplace. The link below is to your owner's manual and on page 32 is your IPI/electrical schematic. The 120v to the fireplace should be powering a wall-wart transformer that supplies low voltage to the IPI controls. The wall switch for the fireplace should be on the low voltage side of things (the manual does NOT show that 120v would be run to the wall switch). Your backup battery holder should be under the fireplace as well. https://woodstoves.net/documents/napoleon/WHD31_manual.pdf

Hi, T.V., When comparing operating costs, keep in mind that the cost of propane varies seasonally. Make sure you're using typical winter prices for propane when making any comparisons. You can, of course, take advantage of lower summer prices if you have a large propane storage tank. Factor in any known near-term price increases such as carbon taxes, etc. so your cost comparison isn't invalidated in the near term. Based on the numbers you provided, you can almost flip a coin with regard to propane vs. electric heat system operating cost. Your operating cost for propane (excluding maintenance and depreciation expenses) is equivalent to electric if your propane-fired furnace efficiency is 92% The initial cost of the two systems will be different as will annual maintenance expense. ETA: My early morning math was in error. When I saw Mike_Home's numbers below I realized that I flipped my electric and gas numbers. The operating cost of the propane-fired cost would indeed be 14% higher than electric assuming a furnace efficiency of 95% I would definitely consider a cold-climate heat pump and also a hybrid option (a cold-climate heat pump paired with a propane furnace as emergency heat) as alternatives. Cold-climate heat pumps can operate in temperatures as low as -25C.