Is this an automatic transfer switch or a manual one? You can run pretty much anything you want with that generator, but only one at a time, sort of. Resistance heating of air or water takes a lot of power. Big motors take a lot of power to start up. Motors will easily take up twice the running current in starting. Look at your meters when your pump triggers and see what happens! As an illustration, you can sometimes start up a big load and then when it settles down, add smaller loads that would be too much while staring a pump. This really does not apply to your case, however, since the water pump will be on and off a lot. Ronnatalie is right, if you want to run all of that suff seamlessly, you need a bigger generator, much bigger. If you want to be selective and run large loads, like the water heater and pump, one at a time, install a manual transfer switch and use the circuit breakers to turn everything else off.

Hehehe. I just reread. Backfeeding through the dryer was a mistake. I missed the NOT when I typed it. Oops! >>>I am NOT backfeeding through the dryer.I AM using a transfer switch. Sorry for the mistake. Now I get the confusion. My apologies. OK, I if I leave ground in place on the main breaker panel and run the neutral through the transfer switch THEN to its current position on the main panel, I will successfully keep them separated while not killing a lineman, yes? No fires or danger? The generator will have its own ground stake from the frame. I was thinking of using a GE TC10324R or similar. http://www.homedepot.com/buy/electrical-breakers-distribution-load-centers-safety-switches/ge-200-amp-emergency-power-transfer-switch-175644.html I will have to manually make sure that no two large loads are running at once. Short of buying a 70Kw generator, I think this is all I can do. A neighbor works for an electrical supply house so I will go with what transfer switch he suggests.

While it's true that natural gas systems are considerably more reliable than electric systems in a storm, many areas did lose gas service during Katrina and Rita, for weeks at a time. Some utilities now even have a policy of shutting off service before a storm even hits, as a safety precaution. Out here on the West Coast we have another issue: earthquakes, during which underground pipes are actually more vulnerable than above-ground cables. The '89 Loma Prieta quake (which destroyed our home in the Santa Cruz mountains) broke more than 2,000 gas lines, resulting in some spectacular fires. Personally for permanently-installed gen-sets I prefer propane or multi-fuel models, with a large tank mounted on a good slab that is re-fueled when it hits the half-way point. I also strongly advise to have backups to the backup, consisting of one or more small gasoline generators, since that is the most common fuel available during extended outages, even if you have to siphon it from vehicles. It all depends on what risk you are willing to accept, and what events are likely to occur in your area.

I would suggest just installing a 400 amp manual, non-fused, service entrance rated transfer switch with an inlet to plug your generator into. This way, you will be able to power your entire interior panel and have the luxury of using any circuit that you need. If the only objective here were to service the house main panel (interior panel?), I'd have no qualms with this approach, but it doesn't address the two-service configuration. [Also, assuming the remote house disconnect is fused at 200A, then a lower-rated transfer switch (e.g., 200A) could be used below the disconnect. Note that the OP still hasn't confirmed that the disconnect is fused, but I think he's implying that. It makes sense that it'd be fused in order to protect the 4-ought AL wire feeding the house.] **** If, as is likely, that water pump in the barn is 220V, the simple 120V extension cord option for the barn doesn't appear to be a viable option so, yes, I think you're looking at a two-transfer switch design of some sort. My hunch is that any kind of single switch designed to handle two services would put you into some really pricey industrial hardware, so it's probably a case of "two is cheaper than one". To further flesh out Option #2, you could consider installing a j-box with a 120/240V generator inlet spliced to two ouput feeds--one to each transfer switch, located immediately downstream of the discos. What remains to be vetted, to my way of thinking, is the issue of how the grounding system works with that three-wire feeder. I hope that one of the double-E's here comes along to weigh in on that because I don't feel qualified to give you a confident recommendation about how to bond (or not bond) at the generator itself.