Need help on wood floor plank width please!
HU-196020793
4 years ago
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G & S Floor Service
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Wood Floor Planks Sizes- 3' or 5''? Need Advice
Comments (19)coolmom1, Thanks for letting me know that I guessed what your beautiful floors were. I really am getting very good at knowing the different wood species when I should be doing my work and then making a decision. One day I want the Brazilian Cherry rich floors that give contrast to my family room furniture and the next day I want the Quartersawn White Oak floors with the rose stain and that nice Semi-Gloss finish that I have grown to love by having the samples on the floor for so many weeks (at first I felt it was too shiny). I keep wondering what the 5" wide planks look like. I wish they had the Quartersawn Oak floors in a 4" wide plank since 5" may look too wide in my rooms. I do like the look of the 3.25" width. I love the quartersawn rays but I also love the Maple floors above in the natural finish....See MoreNeed help deciding on width of new solid wood flooring
Comments (18)"....we will have plywood subfloor on slab."....Ummm???? I'm not a fan of using plywood over concrete. It often causes FAR more problems then it "solves". And I know MANY hardwood flooring professionals who shake their head at that sort of technique. My other concern about that statement: "...and he is putting some kind of moisture barrier underlayment under the flooring where we will have plywood subfloor on slab". That indicates a vapour barrier OVER plywood that is sitting on the slab. Oh. No. He. Didn't! When it comes to wooden subfloors, a vapour barrier is NOT allowed. A vapour RETARDANT is allowed (with caution)....but I'm still very worried about "plywood over slab" and then "vapour barrier over the plywood over the slab". These could be red flags. My spidy senses are tingling. I think you need to speak with someone who is NWFA certified to see how this whole plan is going to "work out". It *might work....or it could go south very quickly....See MorePLEASE HELP, NEED HELP NOW! About putting in engineered wood flooring.
Comments (18)I prefer site finished. It is easier to refinish when it needs it. Your friend has probably done "buff and coat" procedures. This is normally done ONCE and then a FULL sand and refinish. If your friend has been doing the buff and coat MORE THAN once, then she's doing it "wrong" (could be "right" for her, but it isn't the regular way for hardwood). Traditionally the FULL sand and refinish occurs around the 20 year mark. So the floors, after 20 years SHOULD look like this. That's kinda what tells you "it's time". A buff and coat only adds a coat of finish (to freshen up the floor). It doesn't "correct" anything. The FULL sand and refinish will do 10 TIMES more for the look of the floor than a buff and coat. The sand/refinish will strip the old finish off and then carve off 1-2mm of WOOD. That means 99.9% of all dings and gouges will be taken care of. The "dirt and food in between" (the planks) is MUCH MORE likely to occur with factory finished floors. These floors have bevelled edges (a little shoulder on every plank that creates little valleys between each plank). But it can occur with floors SHRINKING from LOW humidity. The floor can create little gaps between planks. That's normal if the humidity is too low or is uncontrolled. The THINNER the plank, the LESS the wood will/can shrink. That's why narrow/strip hardwood is the BEST option for uncontrolled humidity. Those big, beautiful, expensive, wide plank products that are SUPER trendy = not an option for uncontrolled humidity. A factory finished hardwood (with Aluminum Oxide = AO) is going to be SUPER expensive to refinish and here's why. The AO finish is SOOOO tough (how tough is it SJ?). It is SOOOO tough it takes 2-3 TIMES the amount of effort/material to strip it from the wood floor. Once the AO is gone, the wood turns into a normal hardwood floor. And just for fun, the 'refresh' buff and coat is almost IMPOSSIBLE to do. Even the toughest finish looks tired around the 15 year mark. Sadly, AO finishes often prevent a recoat (the finish is chemically very slick...almost nothing sticks to it = HELL to add '1 coat'). The average cost of a full sand/refinish = $5/sf. The average cost of a sand/refinish of AO = $7-$9/sf. Yes. It is THAT TOUGH to remove. A traditional buff and coat = $2.50 - $3/sf. So if you do the math, the site finished hardwood may cost a bit more on day 1....but by year 30 it will be MUCH cheaper/easier to deal with/live with. It allows you to freshen up the finish around year 15 (if you wish). It allows for a routine sand/refinish without adding a HIGHER COST of labour. So "cost effective" today can be much more costly by the time you plan on refinishing. In fact, so many people look at the extra costs and figure a new floor is cheaper....and they are right. Sigh...so there goes the idea of using up all the life on the hardwood (3/4" solid hardwood). That goes out the window when the owner realizes the costs are much higher and they choose to rip it out and throw it out; thus negating the benefit of a solid hardwood!...See MoreTell me about wood-look floor--bevel vs square edge, plank width etc.
Comments (25)Living with my Karndean Warm Ash 9" planks for 2 months. Its very pretty, love 9" and the color. I was going for exactly whT the OP was goung for and the look is right. But. Has no bevel. Not Into cleaning, the idea of any bevel sounded gross with my not so often cleaning. Wish I had done a micro bevel if it was avail. Didnt even consider and wish I had. Prof install, Karndean is not maybe the best but decent brand......the ends of the planks stick up just a tiny bit. Most noticeable when walking down the hallway as the planks are laid Ling. Really distracting. And of course I can't imagine it not chipping. Really sad, super expensive small new build. Other thoughts, I hate the grain in lvp. although I went with a very minimal grain, again the idea if dirt building up in the grin was gross. But even with minimal grain you notice if you Re sweeping with or against the grain. You have to sweep with the grain. I have soft spots that you can feel give. Drives me nuts. No noise, just give. Btw that and the flex in in the trex I feel like I'm living in a fun house mystery spot. Wish I had gone glue down but assumed it was some cheap way to go. It can be fixed, click cannot. No give....See MorePatricia Colwell Consulting
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