bandage adhesive allergies any one?
6 years ago
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Suggestions about bandages over stiches?
Comments (18)They didn't tell me to take it off until I asked, which happened to be 3 days later. This is not just a small laproscopic hole, it's inches long with stitches inside the incision and outside of it. It's on my arm and standard of care is 7-10 days before removal of sutures. They instructed me to keep it dry for 24 hours and then, when it was time to get it wet, afterwards, daub it with a towel, follwed by blow drying it with a hair dryer. Honestly, I didn't even shower at all for 24 hours, waiting until the next day. I stayed in and didn't risk getting the sutures wet. I can shower and wash it fully with soap, but not scrub it. I did get to take off any other material that had adhesive backing today that hadn't already "fallen" off. The wounds is looking really good and I credit it to their instructions. They're staying on top of it. I now know, tape is highly irritating to my fair redhead freckle skin. Added to the ever growing list!...See MoreInstalling wood parquet floor : any tips for us?
Comments (2)The metal strips are embedded in the underside crosswise to the parquet strips to hold the tile pieces together because these strips are not glued to one another. Presumably any cut edges will be hidden by edge molding so a jigsaw is ok, even if the cut is rougher. When I installed my oak parquet the same way as you are, I used a radial arm saw for most of my cuts: I simply marked where my cuts would be, and then pulled out and snipped off the part of any metal strip that would be in the way of the radial arm saw blade. You will have to use a jig saw for any complex cuts, but bear in mind that the metal strips can get dislodged by too much vibration, so it's not a bad idea to put masking tape on temporarily to hold everything together. When you have applied the adhesive, set a tile down as close as you can to the adjacent ones so that, when you slide it into position, you don't have adhesive being forced up by the sliding action and showing on the top surface. Keep some paper towels and solvent handy, because you will occasionally have some smear to cleanup. Use the solvent sparingly if you have prefinished parquet. Like any tile job, doing the layout, and then getting the first tile row completely straight is the critical part....See MoreNew House 'Allergy Syndrome?!'
Comments (19)Interesting thread- how did I miss this a year ago? My mother and I were talking a few months back about the materials used in new housing construction- after she went to visit my brother in his huge, new house that is all cheapo materials. She complained that everything from doors to counters was plastic. I've been very interested in some of the stuff that's out there lately about various components of plastic being hazardous to the immune system. I got rid of my chronic hayfever about 10 years ago by putting myself on a regimen of vitamins and supplements for a couple of months- said goodbye to a lifetime of hayfever so am convinced that the immune system may play a bigger role than it's given credit for. Who knows how or if all those plastics play into that type of thing. Some of it can also be the landscaping done in new construction areas. Back in the good old days, whatever grew was what grew (think of the farm), now so much of what is planted is well cultivated and is often a male tree that looks prettier than a female tree, or may be less messy, but spends a great deal of time spurting pollen hither and yon. Humidifying is great not just for the linings of the nasal passaged, but also because dust mites don't do well with higher humidity. Rinsing the sinuses with salt water like someone else suggested is also a great thing to learn- I learned to do it with a shot glass and have cleared sinus infections very rapidly that way....See Morerecommendation - Concrete surface prep for OSB subfloor
Comments (15)The 1.3 R value is HUGE on a floor. Imagine your concrete slab as a HUGE refrigerator. And imagine it is left with the door open and running full throttle 24/7 for DECADES. That's what a slab is. We call it a heat sink. Because heat SINKS into it (never to come back out). What you want to do is COMPARE the COST of the DriCore R and the TOTAL RENOVATION cost of the in-floor radiant heating. The 'extra' $1300 for the DriCore is ONLY what you pay for. Leave the heating in the home as it is. I'm not kidding. Us the DriCore to UPGRADE the insulation in the home. And continue using the heating system you have. Now compare the cost of the HYDRONIC heating system purchase and installation with the DriCore R. I'm going to guess there is a HUGE difference. If you do NOT install SOMETHING insulating over that slab, you are going to heat the refrigerator and the EARTH below it. You are going to make some worms VERY happy....nice and toasty. You must have some form of heat break. Gluing plywood to an old slab isn't going to get this done. And this is precisely why the cost of RETROFITTING a hydronic system over a slab is one of the MOST EXPENSIVE upgrades you can do. The cost to do this properly (which means removing an inch of concrete, adding an insulation barrier like cork and then adding the tubing and then pouring new concrete) is exceptionally expensive. Trying to figure out a DIY level hydronic heat retro-fit over concrete slab is very tough. You have already stated you will be adding 2" of flooring height. But where is the HEAT BREAK? The cost of heating a heat sink (your concrete) is VERY HIGH. You will not see any savings. It might even become more expensive. Who has 'sold you' on the retrofit hydronic heat over concrete slab??? I'm in Canada and have had people in Northern Saskatchewan (1 hour drive south of the Territories). They routinely reach -40 C (same as -40 F). The basement never reached 16 C (60 F) in the winter time. They added 6mm cork (1/4") over the basement slab then added 11mm cork flooring over that. The basement was the warmest space in their house. It sat at a comfortable 22 C (72 F) without any change in their lifestyle (setting on their thermostat sat at the same place all the time). I saved them $25,000 because they were going to do the hydronic heat (properly). Not bad for a day's work (talking on the phone with them = 4 hours). All they needed was a regular heat source and some INSULATION over the slab. The 6mm cork underlay = the same as the insulating foam in the DriCore R (1.3 increase). The 11mm cork floating floor = same again (another 1.3). A regular heat source PLUS insulation over cement = warm spaces PLUS reduced heating costs. Nothing else needs to be added. No expensive retro fit (which needs to have the concrete jacked out and the insulation added then the tubes sunk in cement). This is the POWER of insulating a HEAT SINK. It's like turning off the refrigerator AND throwing down some carpet. Remove the chilly iceberg and you will automatically save money. It's your call....See More- 6 years ago
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