recommendation - Concrete surface prep for OSB subfloor
Nev Harris
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
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SJ McCarthy
3 years agoNev Harris
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoRelated Discussions
Subfloor with Delta-FL -- OSB or plywood
Comments (11)I just finished two rooms in my basement with DriCore and I'm pretty impressed with the product. Anyone with a table saw should have a pretty easy time with it. Even though I used the Dricore shims where the floor was irregular, I still have a few places where I hear the knock of Dricore against concrete when you step on it. The laminate flooring helped, but it didn't elimate the noise. In retrospect, I think I could have done a better job to eliminate the noises with more careful shimming, but I was moving along at a fairly rapid pace and lost track. I put in enough Tapcons in the bottom plates of the walls I built to appreciate not needing them with the Dricore. Plus, the Dricore people dwell on the fact that this is a floating floor, and attaching it to the concrete wasn't recommended. I ordered the DriCore directly from the manufacturer (Home Depot had dropped them by the time I was ready to buy), so it showed up on my driveway on a pallet. After carrying 85 sheets of drywall by hand to the basement, 2x2 squares was a welcome change. I think it wound up being about $1.25/sqare foot. Bill...See More3/4 inch solid oak on 3/4 inch OSB
Comments (1)5/8 is pushing it, you will definitely want to use 1½" long staples. Don't use cleats in OSB, as OSB does not have the holding power as plywood, or dimensional lumber. If these two areas connect, place underlayment to match the kitchen height, and still use 1" staples as you don't want the fasteners to blow through the bottom of the subfloor. Staple every 8-12 inches, and no closer to the ends then 2"...See MoreOSB subflooring and glue-down engineered hardwood installation
Comments (0)I am double posting this (from Design Dilemma) because I hope for professional flooring advice and also suggestions from people who've done this. We live in the Pacific Northwest (rainy winters and dry summers). Our house is 13 years old with ¾” OSB subfloors on joists 16” on center. We want to remove the carpeting in the dining room, living room and hallway (above grade) and downstairs hallway (on grade), and replace the carpeting with wood flooring. We also want to keep the height difference between these rooms and the adjoining tiled kitchen to a minimum. Because of this requirement, I am leaning towards 1/2" engineered wood rather than solid 3/4" wood. The new flooring would be professionally installed. Am I correct to say that OSB does not hold nails/staples as well as plywood for nail-down installation, nor does it provide a suitable surface for glue-down engineered wood flooring installation? Would glue-down installation avoid the squeeky-squeeks that might result from a nail-down installation? We have heard that installers recommend having an underlayment put down over the OSB to provide a better adhesive surface for engineered wood flooring and we would have that done. I don't think a floating floor would be an option because of the upstairs room size (50' x 15') and high ceilings (possibly too noisy). For glue-down engineered wood flooring, what underlayment would be best between the OSB subfloor and the engineered wood floor? How thick would it need to be? Thank you Mary...See MoreSubfloor question for SuperCore LVP...please help
Comments (5)What SJM said you have to prep the floor properly. If you look at DriCore installation specs, it tells you that "Any dips or low spots in the concrete surface greater than 1/4" should be troweled level with a Portland cement compound or leveled with a self-leveling compound to ensure an accurate installation." The same goes for LVP flooring "A. The surface of the subfloor must be flat. The flatness requirement is defined as follows: the maximum difference between two high points and the intermediate low point is 1/4" in a 10' radius. Surface flatness must also not vary more than 1/16" when measured with a 3' straight edge. Additionally, the subfloor must not slope more than 1" in 6'. B. High areas can be sanded, ground down, or floated over with an approved self-leveling compound. Fill excessive voids or low areas using a non-gypsum, cementitious-based leveling compound. Allow the leveling compound to dry thoroughly before beginning the LifeProof Vinyl Plank installation. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to be sure it is appropriate for the application. Good luck...See MoreG & S Floor Service
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoNev Harris
3 years agoSJ McCarthy
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoUser
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoNev Harris
3 years agoNev Harris
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoNev Harris
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoSJ McCarthy
3 years agoNev Harris
3 years agoUser
3 years agoSJ McCarthy
3 years ago
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