bj We had a simialr siutation. We used up our cash on the first 2 draws plus a partial on the third (the bank paid the other part of draw 3). AFter that - all draws were paid by the bank. We chose this route to delay the interest payments on the contruction loan for as long as possible. We broke ground in September of last year - but our first significant payment of interest to the bank just started this month. That worked out best for us because we had big delays (remember to get a schedule!) and at least we weren't caught having to pay interest on the loan during this time. You could flip the strategy and use bank funds up early - but then you have interest payments earlier. And if you have a delay - you will be paying interest (stress meter is starting to rise!) Either way can work - just think about your cash flow as well as tax situation (maybe you need the write off). The mechanics are very simple. For the draws we paid from our cash - we wrote the builder a check. Get a receipt for the draw from the builder because the bank needs it as proof of payment before they will start paying draws from the money you are borrowing. When you do this - you might want to have your own inspection done prior to each draw to make sure all work has been done to code or do your own inspection. I chose to do my own inspection. Once you are through with your cash out - then the builder will make contact with the lender to say he is ready for the next draw. The lender will schedule an inspection - once complete - the draw will be paid. Don't expect these inpsections to be anything more than a quick look to make sure that the major pieces are in place. We decided to have an active role in the dispersement of the money (your lender should have a form that you must sign and the builder must sign that is an agreement on the disbursement method). An active role means that when the builder asks for the draw - the bank contacts me to see if it OK to send the money, even after the inspection is done. I also opted (this is on the disbursement form) to have the money deposited into our bank account. Then I pay the builder with a check. My builder does not like this arrangement - most won't. My banker advised me to do it since it gives me some level of control. I happen to like it. If you opt for the passive role, then the builder asks for a draw - bank sends out inspector - and then money is directly deposited into the builders account. You are notified of what is going on, but the entire transaction is done without you having to specifically approve of the draw disbursement. Hope this helps.

After posting earlier this weekend, I ventured into our local Friends of the Library bookstore on Sunday and happened across three "finds". 1) Sharon O'Connor's Menus and Music. This looks like a cookbook more for a gourmet, but she has suggestions for the classical music that should accompany each menu/item. The book originally came with a cassette tape (published in 1985)with music by the San Francisco String Quartet. Unfortunately, this copy didn't come with the cassette. The book is still quite new - the spine isn't bent or cracked in any way. I can probably find much of the music in my own CD collection! $2. (No cover price listed.) 2) Jeannie Jones' "Homestyle Cooking Made Healthy". This was another one that was so new it creaks when you open it. The recipes are all healthy and the pictures, beautiful! I had checked this one out of the library and decided it was worth owning if I could find a used copy. $3. (Back cover says $27.95) 3) Okay, this one is OT - sheet music for Johnny Mercer's "Dream"! 50c. I love to browse our Friends of the Library Bookstore's sheet music. I've come across some good "finds"! DonnaR/CA

Doesn't sound as though they've approached you for more money? They shouldn't. Don't borrow trouble thinking about "what ifs". It's on their nickel for sure. The only thing where they might need more money would be if it substantially changes what's possible with the design and that affects the cabinet order. Even then, cabinets shouldn't be ordered until all of the structural changes are actually made because you can sometimes run into stuff that simply can't be changed without a lot more money being spent. So, even then, I'd expect the GC to suck it up.

Update. I visited both the Apple Store (to hold iPhones) and the AT&T store to discuss upfront costs and plans. The jury's still out on whether to get a 6s or 6s Plus. I was annoyed at first when I had to sign up and wait to be seen by someone in the AT&T store. I almost left in a polite huff and decided that would be foolish, so I hunkered down and waited. I'm glad I did because a very very knowledgeable young woman answered all my questions. She actually gave me way more info than I needed, but here's the deal: In my case, lascatx is wrong about them charging me monthly for the balance of the phone and not stopping until I bring it to their attention. In the past, I have opted for 2-year contracts at a lower, subsidized price. All I paid monthly was for my plan, i.e., voice, data, text. That was/is one of the benefits of locking into a contract. The salesperson told me that AT&T is one of the few carriers still doing this and soon, within a year, they will cease altogether. The option is still available to me to do this, but it would be the last time. My $70/mo total bill, which includes an unlimited data plan, is still mine to keep. I can buy the phone at the lesser amount and agree to a 2-year contract, or I can buy the phone for the full price. I'm not interested in paying over time and having it added to my monthly bill. If I decided to break my contract at any point, I will have to pony up the balance. So, really no risk at all for me to do the contract, as it's a savings of $450. She mentioned $40 here or there if I do one or the other, but at that point, I had reached my saturation point and I'm not gonna fuss over that amount. I hope this has been helpful. I have an existing plan I'd like to keep; I seem to do well with phones for two years; paying less is also nice.