Your Fiddle Leaf Fig may benefit from proper water and nourishment. I highly suggest reading the following guide to ensure you are watering your Fiddle Leaf Fig properly. The Ultimate Guide to Watering your Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree

you can use stick to straighten the stem, so it doesn't lean. top up the soil and cover the sticking roots. other than that the usual. provide as much light as you can and appropriate watering. provide artificial light for the upcoming winter moths. do that and the stem will fortify and straighten. if you want a bigger intervention you can cut the stem close to the ground and let it branch out and thicken. Your plant actually looks pretty good, not much wrong with it.

"fresh new growth at the tips is a sign of a happy plant" "Fresh new growth at the tips" may not even represent true growth, let alone serving as a reliable indicator of a happy plant. True "growth" is measured by the increase (in weight) of the plant's dry mass. Plants are organisms that shed parts in response to stress. If the dry weight of the shed parts is greater than the dry weight of newly added parts and thickening, the plant is losing weight and going backwards in terms of growth; so, new growth at branch/stem tips means no more than the fact the plant is managing to find a supply of nutrients sufficient to allow branch extension. The plant might be securing these nutrients by cannibalizing its own organs, because that's what plants do. "a plant will wilt when it really needs water .... and its a great tell as to when to water" And, a plant will wilt when it's over-watered, which means wilting is not a reliable indicator signaling the plant needs watering. Wilting while the grower can still detect moisture in the grow medium should raise a red flag, and it's a good bet it would over-watering causing the wilting. Hi, Monica. This doesn't look at all like a disease pathogen, but it does look like a physiological disorder linked to adverse cultural conditions. IOW, I believe you're over-watering; and, it's likely the only change you need to make to correct the issue is alter your watering intervals based on moisture levels deep in the pot. To do that, I suggest you make/use a wooden "tell" to "tell" you when it's time to water. See "Using a Tell" below. A couple of "tricks" that will limit how much excess water the grow medium can hold; 1) After watering, tip the pot at a 45* angle. It has a notable impact on how much water can remain in the pot. Use the line drawing to compare B to A for an accurate representation of how much difference it can make. Figure D illustrates how valuable using an overturned pot as ballast can be, and E illustrates how much difference using a wick can make. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Questions? Al

as for location, is this spot enough for it to survive?