Best Eating Apple
6 years ago
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Want to plant an apple tree --help?
Comments (10)Your question is pretty broad. It's similar to going onto an aviation forum and asking, "How do you fly a plane?" I'd recommend that you do some Google searches, search through and read some of the threads on here (see the search box at the bottom of the main forum), and maybe get some books on the subject. Research is the only way you are really going to get all of your questions answered. There is no perfect variety. Everyone's tastes are different and needs vary. Some people may value disease resistance highly, while others may be confident in their ability to treat their trees on a regular basis. Some may be seeking something different or be interested in preserving an older cultivars. The only universal difference between antique and modern apples is the amount of time the cultivar has been around. On average, modern cultivars are developed for consistent appearance and cosmetic appeal and tolerance of shipping and rough handling, while antique cultivars were often chosen for their flavor or cider-making qualities. Choosing a root stock should be about much more than dwarf v. semi-dwarf growth rate. Dwarf rootstock will result in a slower growing tree and may require less frequent pruning than a tree with a semi-dwarf rootstock, but the ultimate size of the tree is going to be determined by the pruner. Things like tree architecture, fruit size and quality, disease and pest resistance, drought resistance, soil adaptability, whether of not the tree requires external support, cold hardiness, proclivity to sucker, graft compatibility, amount of fruit produced (productivity), how young the tree will produce (precocity), how long the tree will last and produce fruit (senescence), and the amount and frequency of maintenance are also influenced or determined by rootstock selection. Don't waste money on buying unusually large trees. Larger trees are likely to experience more transplant shock. Smaller trees often outgrow and even overtake larger trees. Also, smaller trees are easier to plant. I usually start with 2' to 4' trees. Precocity will vary with scion and rootstock type, the age of the tree, and environmental conditions. In general, more dwarfing rootstocks will produce at an earlier age. Most of my semi-dwarf trees (so far, I've used EMLA111 rootstock exclusively) produced fruit their second year. I removed it early to allow the tree to spend more energy on becoming established. You really don't have to worry about having multiple cultivars for pollination if other apples are within eyesight. But, who can stop with just one type of apple? Personally, I'd shy away from multiple types grafted onto one tree. All-in-one trees require more attention to proper pruning technique and have a number of other disadvantages. The only time I would consider one is if I only had a very small spot and was limited to just one tree. If there's one thing you come away with from this response, it should be check your sources out before ordering! Your list of sources above tells me that you haven't even started doing that. Before buying any type of plant, check the nursery out on Garden Watchdog. I will include a link to my list of possible sources below. Urban Homestead, Burnt Ridge Nursery, and Cummins Nursery are examples of respectable sources for apple trees. Here is a link that might be useful: Sources for Fruit Trees and Plants...See MoreLiberty apple still best resistance to cedar apple rust in Iowa?
Comments (7)I agree with you, Acer, that the choice is a contradiction. The Green Giant (Thuja) was the other contender when I narrowed down my choices. There were a few things that tilted the selection to cedar. One is that it is nearly impossible here in town to get an apple tree far enough away from junipers to avoid cedar-apple rust if the apple tree is susceptible -- the experts say something like a half-mile of distance is needed. There are probably several junipers in neighbors' yards just on my block alone. So one more juniper will not likely cause more trouble than the other existing dozens would. Second, I prefer native plants. If there were no resistant apple trees, I would plant the juniper anyway because the juniper is native. According to one source, it is the ONLY needleleaf evergreen native to this particular area. On the other hand, apple trees are the interloper here. As far as I know, no apples are native to Iowa, not even crabapples. So why plant an apple at all? Well, I have this stubborn conviction that every yard needs an apple tree because I grew up with one. Even tho it was out behind the garage and surrounded by tall shrubs and could only be seen when one was standing right underneath it, it impressed me enough to want an apple tree wherever I call home. "Home is where the apple tree grows." Third, along with being native is the observation that these junipers are found in native stands along with black walnuts, so they are already good friends and won't cause trouble between themselves. It's good to know that my trees will feel good with each other. Their driplines will be very close, maybe overlapping. Fourth, the juniper provides berries that birds enjoy during the winter and the thuja does not. Feeding wildlife is an important consideration to me. No, I have not heard of cedar-needle pie either! Haha. I'll have to work on that one -- what a challenge! But I think one can make gin from the berries. I wonder how the berries would flavor citrus-based confections like lemon pudding? Fifth was the growth rate. I think the juniper grows a bit faster than the Thuja. I can certainly afford a bigger juniper to start with because a close friend has a farm full of junipers -- he admires the tree -- and he'll dig one up to transplant. It'll be like a family connection through the tree. So I might have a useful screen in only a few years to block a neighboring apartment house window that looks down into my big patio window, which I like to keep uncurtained. When it's all added up, I am simply very happy that my stubborn, contradictory convictions can be satisfied with a really promising solution like a disease-resistant tree....See MoreNewtown Pippin
Comments (15)It's the only apple that fits the description, Harvestman. Everything, including the tangerine-like smell, just not the ripening date. It's only a couple weeks early and my McIntosh are equally early. Late October doesn't happen here with anything, even my Arkansas Black is off mid-October. You can push some freezes and most will hold longer but they'll be over ripe. I posted pictures and the taste description and that is what was said. Anything else that fits the looks doesn't fit the flavor. It also goes from tart to sweet. Like I said, I'll find out for sure in a year or two. I got my niece's grafted and I got one bought....See MoreHeirloom Apple Name
Comments (3)Found this is some apple nursery catalog... CHENANGO STRAWBERRY - An old favorite from Chenango County, New York. A most beautiful long conical apple, greenish or yellowish white with red stripes and a bright pink blush on the sunny side The shine skin is almost translucent through which the gleams like porcelain. A fine flavored juicy, tender-fleshed apple with a singularly powerful aroma. A bowl of Chenangos fills the room with its scent. However, it must be picked at exactly the proper time, usually in Michigan about the first week in September, just as the skin begins to develop a milky appearance, otherwise the overripe flesh becomes dry and tasteless....See More- 6 years ago
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