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I have the same FE 30 problem on my KM5733 Induction cooktop whenever it's circuit breaker/isolation switch (in my house's fuse box) has been turned off and then on again. I have turned in back on after waiting a day or longer (figuring it needed to reset itself?) and the results have been hit and miss and I have had no idea why it would work sometimes and not others. Needless to say, I've trolled the net looking for answers and Miele online support is useless (unless you're ok with shelling out loads of cash to have a technician come by) and I still haven't heard back from them after lodging an enquiry. What I have discovered from this and other forums is that these units do not like being attached to a power source which has a voltage significantly above the amount stipulated in its specifications (for my unit it's 230 Volts). After reading this I used a voltage meter to measure the voltage in one of the power outlets in my house (I have a really cheap meter I'd bought a while ago at an electronics retailer). Sure enough it was above 260 Volts which is totally beyond the range it's supposed to be for where I'm living. The thing is, I know the unit works just fine provided it has been turned on and it doesn't get the initial FE 30 error (it's almost like you have to get past an initial voltage check and then once it's going everything is ok). If the voltage is at an "acceptable" (whatever that may be) level when it's turned on, it will turn on and then stay on even if the voltage goes up afterwards (which it obviously has done during the time from when it was last switched on until recently). How did I get it to work this time? well I thought of ways to reduce the voltage to the unit and came across all sorts of stuff on the net including powerbox voltage reducers, optimisers, blah, blah... I thought this is total rubbish and I'm going to ring the power company and complain about the voltage being so high when it's not supposed to be. I then thought back to my old high school physics days and remembered that there's a relationship between voltage, current and resistance. I then thought the voltage to the induction cooktop (as well as to all the other power outlets/circuits in the house) is likely to drop if I plug in and turned on a lot of high resistance electrical appliances. Sure enough, when I turned on the kettle, toaster, clothes dryer, computers, televisions, electric oil heaters, lights and dishwasher, the voltage in the power outlet I'd been measuring went down from 260 to 235 volts. I then turned on the power to the induction top back on and it turned on and with no FE 30 error! I boiled some water to make sure everything was working ok (it was) and then I turned off the induction top and all of the other devices I'd switched on. Still no FE 30 error! Great. I double checked the unit by turning it back on and boiling water again and it did it with no problems. I then turned the unit off and measured the voltage in the power outlet again and sure enough it was back at 260 Volts. Hurray! I'm now going to ring the power company and make a complaint...

Bravo! Very happy to hear your machine is working! I can understand having a 3, 5 and 7 year old ourselves that the laundry piles up FAST! I would suspect the F-27 error is due to over suds error. The hotter that water, the more suds are produced. The smallest amount of detergent produces suds like crazy on sanitary cycle. I have found Tide HE to be very sudsy as it is. I have given up on HE liquids all together. If you have soft water, you may want to give HE powders a try. I find powder to be less sudsy more so on hotter temps and rinses cleaner all together. The target to shoot for is a FEW suds/bubbles being splashed onto the window. In a HE front load machine, too many suds results in reduced cleaning performance, all the water is used up to make suds and there is no water left to actually clean the clothes. When I used liquid, I would get a pitcher of hot water, and a table spoon of liquid at a time followed by flushing it into the machine with hot water from the pitcher into the machine. So I would put 2 tablespoons into the dispenser then start the machine, once the machine had filled on it's own, I would watch the suds. No suds yet? Add another table spoon of liquid flushed with some hot water from the pitcher. It could get a little tricky using the Sanitary cycle, because as the machine heated the water hotter, more suds were produced. There is a learning curve with HE front loaders, learning how to not over suds the machine, while still using enough detergent to get clean clothes. Having 3 young children, almost all their clothes have been washed on sanitary on a regular basis. The biggest thing I had to get my brain around was that SUDS does not equal cleaning power. I had to get used to seeing very little to no suds and trusting that the clothes were getting clean. Worst thing that could happen is I had to re-run the load with more detergent, and chalk it up to a test run. I have been using home made laundry soap the past few months and find it works better than anything store bought, and produces very little suds and is very forgiving for over dosing the machine. I have tried pretty much every liquid and powder on the market both HE and non-HE. As far as claims for HE detergent (both liquid and powder) producing less suds, I have not found that to be the case. I found no difference in suds or cleaning power between for example Tide HE powder or normal regular every day Tide. Remember that all detergent manufacturers want you to use as much detergent as possible. Half or less of what they tell you to use usually does the job. Have been eying up the Maytag 3000 series in Crimson red as a replacement for our 6.5 year old Whirlpool Duet HT which is getting a little tired after 10+ loads a week for 6.5 years.

I removed the two wires leading to the thermistor from the wiring bundle, separated them physically from eachother (and everything else - suspended in air, as it were) and checked for continuity along each length and between them. They have 100% continuity/no resistance along each wire, and infinite resistance between them. While separated, I plugged everything back in, went to diagnostic mode, reset the error, exited diagnostic mode, then restarted the dryer. Once again, it ran for a second, then shut down with error code E71. Checking the remaining sensors is my next step. The only things I can't test with a multimeter are the top panel control board (TPCB/the front panel display) and the cabinet control board (CCB/where the outlet control thermister plugs in). On the CCB, I can only test the pickup on the board itself, since Electrolux doesn't supply a wiring diagram schematic for the board itself (the pickups actually lead to two soldered holes where I'm actually testing - don't know what you call them). However, since I replaced the board, that should rule out the board as an issue unless the replacement board was bad. The TPCB likewise doesn't have anything I can check due to lack of documentation, and the leads going into it from the CCB cannot be traced back to the outlet control thermister by the tech manual or included wiring diagram. Electrolux says there is no other wiring diagram, but that's impossible (how else was it built) - there's just none that they're willing to make available. The reset procedure, initiated from the TPCB, should be sending a signal to the source on the CCB. The reset procedure appears to work in that the dryer can't be started (then resulting in another shut down/E71 code) unless the previous code is cleared with the reset. I'm hoping this means the TPCB is working correctly, but it may only mean that the reset procedure works correctly, and the TPCB has a programming error as you mentioned. Time to get busy with the other sensors. Insert frowny face emoji here...