skip to main content

Irrigation Lawn Care

Winterizing the lawn sprinkler system

4 years ago

I have a compressor and 3/8" hose and 3/8" connectors that will support at least 60 PSI continuously (run at just above 40 PSI presently). My hose length from the compressor to the underground connections is about 40 feet. The longest run underground is about 130 feet. I understand that running air at a high (90) PSI not only exposes the possibility of burning sprinkler heads, but it also may cause air to run on top of the water in the line thereby fooling oneself into thinking the line is pretty much moisture free when water may still be lying in the bottom of the line. I believe running at 40-45 PSI will more likely blow the line clean, but eventually the pop-up heads drop. My question is: with (hopefully) no water remaining, will the pop-up heads retract when sufficient water is removed or should a higher (50-55 PSI) pressure be applied for a short period of time as a second round of insurance? Thanks for the replies.

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (4)

User
4 years ago
I'm sure you're going to get a lot of great replies, but you may be overthinking this a little.

I clean out my system with a shop vac by vacuuming out the water repeatedly, then blowing it out with the air pressure at whatever it can generate. It does fine. When the vacuum won't suck any more water, it's a done deal for the season...

:-)
Wil Haines
Original Author
4 years ago
Thanks morpheuspa. I forgot to state that my air hose is 1/2" and the orfice is 3/8". As always, I appreciate your comments and am sure you are "on it". I also use my same system for blowing out my in-gound pool and I see a few Youtubes where folks are using shop vacs for that job as well. I guess I just have more confidence in a slightly larger system.Regards, Wil
Related Discussions
Lawn sprinkler systems
Q
Comments (19)
I have only installed several systems from first cut to final tweaking..You can use MS Excel for designing after you know pressures and pipe types/lateral distance along with backflow. Granted once you do a few in certain areas you know what PSI the homes have. Head to head is good since you will NOT get the dry spots WHEN pressure in homes go down. Most my homes have over 75 PSI before backflow (when I use 1" from main). But during dry periods it wil drop to below 60 psi. If you design for 75 PSI and get just over the limit of the head (RAD), once the PSI drops, you will not get proper coverage (dry triangles). I do head to head on my lawns and my neighbor just have a system installed. They did not know I do it on the side. Not saying names but a small yard at about 10,000 sq/ft and the heads are WAY to far apart. When they operate it you are lucky if they cover the area. Sad when installers do this to save from putting in 2 heads. They have three head in same distance I have 5 to 6. Heads are cheap and so is funny pipe. And yes you will get over coverage and your precip rate will be high but you can figure out length of time you need to run. Need to now soil conditions too. I just finished my other half my yard. Total for yard of about 95 Hunter PGPÂs (lawn only), 17 zones, over 2,500 ft of poly etc..
...See More
winterize sprinkler system/air compressor??
Q
Comments (8)
Winterization of your sprinkler system is not an area that I would suggest skimping on, particularly up here where it gets cold. If you search around you will find that the recommended compressor stats (for simple residential sprinkler system blowouts) are 10-25CFM at 60-80 PSI, a little further research and you will find that a compressor of this type is LARGE and EXPENSIVE, $1000.00+. Vastly more than you would ever need for blowing up pool toys and bike tires. The volume of air is the crux for consumer grade compressors they just do not move *enough* air to clear the lines completely, the air will override the water leaving the pipe partially full of water, which accumulates in the low areas, and freezes... I know a few folks who use their home compressors and have had no problems, I have also reinstalled systems where the freeze damage was so extensive replacement was the only cost effective approach. BELIEVE me I am a do-it-yourself homeowner, in fact I just this weekend completed replacement of 50' of my house foundation which was do it yourself to the extreme. It is my opinion that winterization by a proffesional is well worth the money. Good luck
...See More
Proper watering lawn with sprinkler system
Q
Comments (2)
Thanks All Wet. That proved that they are idiots and I was right about the amount of water. I only did the park once a month with all night long of watering with multiple zones running by manual valves. Trees grew great despite very hot and dry summer except for August. Bermuda did fine too, better than the new additional side of the park that was watered 3 times a week for 15 minutes each time in the middle of summer. I tried to help out by extending watering period to 2 hours to get water deeper into the ground and reducing to once a week and it worked much better. I don't know where these guys came from...
...See More
Sprinkler System Winterization
Q
Comments (1)
u, Sounds good to me but then again I don't have to winterize. There are many past threads on this subject with the compressor size to use. I don't think any damage will result if some water is left behind as long as there is room for the water to expand as it freezes. Aloha
...See More
Joe BigBlue
4 years ago
Will-

I asked this same thing a couple years ago....this year I never used my sprinklers because of the rain but here's the response I got:

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/5493996/diy-sprinkler-blow-out
Wil Haines
Original Author
4 years ago
Thanks Joe BigBlue - My post in that discussion is exactly what I've done. I think the CFM is more important than the PSI because I believe the CFM is what you need to push the water out of the system. Otherwise, I am doing what I said then and it seems to be working very well. I still hire the professional for the front 5 zones, but there is no doubt that I can start doing those myself as well. All I need is the right plumbing adapters and I may do that next fall. Using my iPhone connected controller, it takes the work out of this project if you have the right air supply. I have a 4 HP 24 gallon air compressor with a belt driven pump and I will post the maximum sustainable CFM that I can achieve in the next day or so. I believe the water is going out of the lines without issues inasmuch that air is all that I see when the heads retract. But..... proof is in the pudding, so to speak. Tomorrow, weather permitting, I'm going to run a second round through the system and see if any water can be found. Thanks again for your link to the information. Much appreciated.

Related Stories

GARDENING GUIDES How Smart Is Your Irrigation System?

By Marianne Lipanovich

New weather- and sensor-based controllers take the efficiency of your sprinklers to the next level

FRONT YARD IDEAS Before and After: Front Lawn to Prairie Garden

By Benjamin Vogt / Monarch Gardens

How they did it: Homeowners create a plan, stick to it and keep the neighbors (and wildlife) in mind

MOST POPULAR Meet a Lawn Alternative That Works Wonders

By Benjamin Vogt / Monarch Gardens

Carex can replace turfgrass in any spot, is low maintenance and adjusts easily. Add its good looks and you’ve got a ground cover winner

GARDENING GUIDES How to Install a Drip Irrigation System

By Marianne Lipanovich

Save time and water with a drip watering system in your vegetable garden — a little patience now will pay off later

LANDSCAPE DESIGN California Says Goodbye to the Sprawling Ornamental Lawn

By Annie Thornton

New state rules will effectively limit turfgrass to 25 percent of the landscape in most new and renovated yards

BEFORE AND AFTERS See 6 Yards Transformed by Losing Their Lawns

By Annie Thornton

Wondering whether a turf lawn is the best use of your outdoor space? These homeowners did, and they found creative alternatives

GARDENING GUIDES Garden Myths to Debunk as You Dig This Fall and Rest Over Winter

By Benjamin Vogt / Monarch Gardens

Termites hate wood mulch, don’t amend soil for trees, avoid gravel in planters — and more nuggets of garden wisdom

LANDSCAPE DESIGN 15 Great Ideas for a Lawn-Free Yard

By Laura Gaskill

End the turf war for good with hardscaping, native grasses and ground covers that save water and are easier to maintain

GREAT HOME PROJECTS How to Replace Your Lawn With a Garden

By June Scott Design

New project for a new year: Lose the turfgrass for energy savings, wildlife friendliness and lower maintenance

SAVING WATER Houzz Call: Are You Letting Go of Your Lawn?

By Annie Thornton

Many facing a drought are swapping turf for less thirsty plantings. If you’re one of them, we’d like to hear about it

Sponsored

More Discussions

Bower's Vine Leaves Limping

9

Renovating drip system-a question for those with experience

12

What threads does the Orbit B-hyve XD with 4 outputs have?

0

Your experinces with expandable garden hoses

0

Fertilizer injector on siphon valve turned to drip irrigation

1