Hardwood Floor Acclimation - Sanity Check
5 years ago
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- 5 years agolast modified: 5 years agosmit2380 thanked Patricia Colwell Consulting
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no expansion gap in hardwood floors
Comments (15)If it moved anything approaching 3/4 of an inch it would tear the nails out. There is still some skill to installing strip flooring. Let it acclimate for multiple days out of its bundles and spread out where it will be installed. Tighter in high humidity (it is going to shrink), looser in low humidity (it is going to expand). Strip floors that are to tight for the moisture content at install can buckle up and pull fasteners part way out. The humps then decrease when the humidity falls. Most of the hump will disappear. Trying to face nail (or even screw) the area will not usually work. The forces generated are larger than the fasteners and/or wood can take. Splitting is not uncommon. You have to remember that if you have 5 inch wide strips 10 feet wide you have 24 strips of wood. If each one move 1/32 inch from damp to dry, the total movement you have distributed is 3/4 inch. It only sows as the joints between the strips opening and closing by 1/32 inch though (and yes it is probbaly off by 1/32 since 24 strips only have 23 joints)....See MoreHelp! Refinishing hardwood floors nightmare
Comments (3)Sounds like a whole boat load of miscommunication between you and the finisher. What kind of "poly" is being applied to your floors? For the clearest look you need a non-yellowing two-part commercial quality waterborne polyurethane. Most oil-based polyurethanes are not clear and will impart a yellow cast to anything you apply it over and it will continue to darken with age. It is OK to use the first coat in gloss or semigloss. Some of us claim that you get a cleaner-looking result if the first coat is gloss or semigloss. I don't like putting two coats of gloss or semigloss on a floor where I will use a satin as the final, as any missed areas with that final coat show as glossy areas. If you want your floors to be given a 'clear coat'...then you must use a "quality" two-part waterborne polyurethane; oil-based is not going to give you that....See MoreHardwood floor installed before HVAC - now problems
Comments (19)Thanks Charles -- I did look at the guidelines that you mentioned. However, it refers to gaps 'at completion' of the job and not within the 1 year warranty period. Everything I've read indicates that installing hardwood without controlling the temp / humidity for what the living conditions will be is a big no no. Re: your comment about the 'difference in moisture content of the wood floor & subfloor' -- if they are both swollen from the high humidity, then they would both shrink under the normal living conditions right? Do they both shrink at the same rate, etc? There are numerous gaps, face checking (cracks on the tops of boards -- some with the grain and some against the grain), and gaps under the baseboards (where I can easily insert a penny). I thought this was a GREAT article that directly discusses the topic of installing with no HVAC: http://www.floordaily.net/floorfocus/challenges_involved_with_installing_hardwood_wood.aspx I noticed many installers recommended waiting or turning down the job if necessary. It sounds like my builder and the installer both made a bad decision. So, isn't this something their insurance would cover? I just want my floor fixed -- not with a band-aid for a short term solution (until the warranty runs out). I just want a good quality floor and to enjoy our new home. Sigh............See MoreFlooring Pros; Need nail down hardwood floor acclimation/finish HELP!!
Comments (21)The acclimation you've been recommended to use is generally how we've done floors forever EXCEPT when using wider planks. As was noted above, have the plywood and wood checked. If they're too far apart the area can be dehumidified to bring the plywood moisture down and/or the wood will add moisture if it's particularly dry. Make sure the contractor is putting a vapor/moisture barrier (not retarder) between the concrete and the plywood. I don't recommend any barrier between the wood and plywood. Some pros have been burned using (probably cheap) water based finishes and refuse to use anything other than oil based. Others think you should use only the newest technology finishes and exclusively use water based. We use both. With a stained, hand-scraped White Oak, I would choose oil based polyurethane. No water based finish compares to the durability of oil modified. Considering the cost, it's a no-brainer unless you have special circumstances. As to staples vs. nails, we've used both and seen little difference in the performance. My preference would be for nails but the industry seems to have moved more toward staples....See MoreRelated Professionals
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