Wow have I got one for you guys. This weekend, I'm helping my friend move out. She was thinking of discarding another snake plant- looks like the same species, and from WV as well. Being the green thumb I am, I offered to plant it in the ground instead. "Stay of execution" I said hahaha. The leaves were not attached to each other. Roots maybe 1/2" long in most spots. Here's the kicker. ~~I~~ had a bitter sensation! It reminded me of pomegranate seeds. Googling "snake plant bitter" and "sansevieria bitter" does not get any hits. By the way- I am a "super taster", but have had no luck correlating this plant with the chemical phenylthiocarbamide (PTC) or propylthiouracil (PROP) I'm almost of the mind to dig the thing back up and take it to the Ag Extension office.

I wanted to report back and thank all the folks here for their advice. We did end up using a 2" PE pipe. The interesting thing was that my plumber had never used it. Neither had 4 other who I got quotes from. They were willing to use PVC or PEX but other than my plumber, no one was even willing to look into PE. The city inspector had never seen it and had to check the california code book to see if it was even approved (It is). The local plumbing supply stores (big box and speciality) did not have it or have in the length that I needed (280ft). So the plumber took his van up to San Francisco to buy it. The plumbing supply store also told him that he has to use a special machine for the joints that he can rent but he had to get trained before he could do that. So my plumber did get trained, rented the machine, got the pipe. It took him a few hours to lay the pipe, wrap some 18 guage wire (CA code for non-metal service lines). He connected to an existing copper for a cottage, connected to a landscape faucet, and the main house. The cost was much more reasonable than Copper. We are in middle of a remodel, so we did not need a special permit.. just an inspection. Saga over.

Found good info and thought i would paste here. The i have a continues TDS on my RO input and output and my output is currently around 40 PPM. The Output feeds my Ice-maker and my Instant hot through copper pipes.... I was worried about corrosion and possible leaks and the below paste makes me feel better! Question: Will putting a whole-house reverse osmosis (RO) system on a house with copper pipe cause leaks? aquacareservice@embarqmail.com Answer: Will putting a whole-house reverse osmosis (RO) system on a house with copper pipe cause leaks? aquacareservice@embarqmail.com The simple answer to your question is yes. Copper plumbing that is exposed to RO water will cause pitting; however, the question begs for a more thorough explanation of whole-house RO. To begin with, when most people hear the term RO, they think of water that has had the mineral salts reduced by 99 percent. While this is good for life support water, this is not practical for domestic,whole-house, working water. It is good to keep in mind that the water for this type of application should have a finish TDS of 50-100 ppm. The product water off the membrane should pass through a small column of calcite or equivalent product, or it can be treated with soda ash to neutralize the acidic nature of the water to a less corrosive state. Bear in mind that these products must meet the NSF standard for food service. In addition to neutralizing the acid, calcite will add calcium carbonate to the water. If the water being treated by the RO still contains hardness, then an acid feed is generally needed to drop the pH to increase the solubility of the hardness. This will allow the membrane to reject high levels of hardness while preventing scaling. Therefore, passing the water through a softener to remove any remaining hardness is a very efficient way to provide the kind of working water that most homeowners would like in the first place. Gary Battenberg, Technical Director, Hague Quality Water International As a rule of thumb, if the TDS (total dissolved solids) concentration of the RO water is above 10 ppm (almost all is >10), it should not be aggressive enough to dissolve copper and cause leaks.

1. Isn't the WS supposed to automatically go into bypass mode during regeneration? Yes. 2. Is it possible that the constant brown-outs and power flickers caused an electronic problem with the softener? When I push the Regenerate Now button, it advances on its own but not sure about the timer (although the salty water and lowering of the salt level tells me the timer is working)? Doesn't sound like you have an electrical problem. 3. Is it possible that the resin beads were so coated that when I added the solution it broke it up some and flakes were released and are now clogging something? No. The backwash and fast rinse will clean this. 4. Should I run the solution through again to try to clean any remaining residue? No 5. Do I need to replace the red disc and gasket (they look fine) or is there a valve problem? Unles it looks bad no. 6. Even if it isn't draing in all of the brine, why would it draw it in later so that we could taste it? That is what you need to find out. If it draws brine the entire brining time (about 60 min) the4n you will have salty water. It should only draw for about 20 min but stay in brining cyc le for 60 min. The float assemble must be on the bottom of the tank. Place unit in a regen cycle and see how full the brine tank gets with water. If it puts in too much, that's your problem. Check the drain flow control. If it's cloged, it can cause salty water.