An addition to existing home.
Pat Morton
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
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jck910
4 years agoJAN MOYER
4 years agoRelated Discussions
1st Post - Building an addition on an older home
Comments (5)We did a large addition in 2008 (added about 1050 sq feet, gutted the kitchen and 3 bathrooms, added a new FR, mudroom/laundry, and master bedroom and bath, refinished floors, etc.) FWIW, here's the thought process we did when we started: If our house is worth approximately X and an addition costs about Y, then let's look at homes for sale in our neighborhood in the X+Y price range. Well, there weren't any (we love our neighborhood and didn't want to go more than a few blocks away.) We also knew our house would need some updating if we were to put it on the market. So we moved forward with our addition, which was pretty costly, at least for us (well over $200/sq ft which I think is normal for this area, at least in '08.) For us it has been very worth it because our house suits us so much better now and we are here for the long term. We worked with our local bank on the loan. There were 2 options we considered: one was a lower rate, but we would have been responsible for doing all the payments to the builders. The second was a slightly higher rate (or fee or something), but the bank did the payouts to the builder, and made the builder hit certain milestones and provide some information (like receipts and proof of paying subs) before getting payments. For us, this was worth it - kind of a safety net. So, I'd recommend setting up a meeting with your banker to talk through different options and expectations with them. That might help you set a ballpark budget, too, and give you a reality check on what they're willing to loan. You may know this already, but for me it was part of the learning process: We had a plan drawn up by an architect and submitted it for bid to a few places that we had interviewed multiple times and really liked (all had local references that we checked.) Well, 2 of the builders are design/build firms and won't bid on plans other than their own. This made it very hard to compare apples to apples, and it put one of our top 2 choices out of the running. (They do beautiful work but are on the pricey side, which is why we wanted to do a comparable bid.) So anyway, if you're interviewing builders that's something to keep in mind....See MoreHow is the concrete/ elevation measured?
Comments (4)Thank you all for your honest feedback. Sorry it was SO long,I was upset when I wrote it. I hoped people not interested in detail could skim/skip. I will take the time to edit future posts for everyone else's sanity :) The roof drains attach into "canale" openings. Copper/ squared "scuppers" (?) enter the parapet wall, then becoming round and connect to fat PVC. They were installed by a plumber, who pressure tested after he installed. Yes a grill fits over the roof opening and needs to be kept clear. They are less ideal than an open canale due to increased clog risk in the 20+ feet of pvc in the roof. I believe we get a roof top swimming pool, and/ or leaks if they clog :) (We hope to check/clear regularly.) They are installed correctly, they just were not expected. Somewhere something was missed or changed so they were needed....See MoreProMar 200 - Quality Paint?
Comments (6)Id say it has alot to do with your painters. Promar 200 is an excellent product. Duration is over 40 a gallon...... Promar is 20's.... Alot of times you get what you pay for.... I dont know the situation, but you have to consider the budget... You get what you pay for.... In most cases. Promar 200 is fine you people are silly...... Primer? lol right.... We use it everywhere at Ga Tech, and Emory..... I have been a painter for a looooooooooong time. Promar 200 is fine. you probablly use lame tools..... Get real - Purdy Moose Brushes and Lambswool Roller Covers are the key..... all the other stuff is toys for children....See MoreCritique floorplan for new build/addition
Comments (20)Mark- Yes, it's upside down for more ventilation, views and natural lighting in the main living space. We live in a tropical climate and aren't planning on putting in A/C on the upper level. We live in a valley and get strong tradewinds, especially on the upper level. We went back and forth about whether to put the kitchen upstairs and bedroom downstairs, or swap. Our architect wasn't super thrilled, but in the end said it was our house so if we wanted the living space on the top, we could do it that way, so I guess that's our fault, not his. Where we live, it's quite common for homes to have this set up to maximize the winds and the mountain and ocean views. We spend most of our time in the living space, not in our bedroom, and I can't stand any light in the bedroom when sleeping, so it seemed a waste to have the bedrooms upstairs. We are going to do scissor trusses on the upper level, but that also seemed wasted in the bedrooms. Since our lot is surrounded by neighboring homes, we are also afraid the lower level won't get enough natural light for the living space to be down there, and no skylight option since there will be a floor above. Regarding the tutu... Not sure what this means and if you're genuinely confused or making a statement about the architect's drawings. Are you referring to the roof lines? I asked for a wider door entry because the space is tighter and we also have no wider sliding door or other entry on the lower level. I asked our architect if it would be strange, but he said he thought a 5' double door would be fine. We really like our architect! He's licensed, I promise. We may be guilty of drawing layouts and showing them to our architect, though I did tell him to change things that didn't make sense etc. and that I defer to his professional expertise. Any suggestions to make it better? What would you do to improve it?...See MoreVirgil Carter Fine Art
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoUser
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoPatricia Colwell Consulting
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoSummit Studio Architects
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4 years agoUser
4 years agoPat Morton
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoPat Morton
4 years ago
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Mark Bischak, Architect