In another thread there has been quite the controversy about this very issue: How to have the wall tile meet the floor tile. There are really only two options (wood not being one of them): cove (sanitary) tile versus just caulking the joint between the floor and wall. Cove moulding is generally more commercial looking but by the nature of its construction would be easier to clean (just like a coved backsplash is easier to clean than that 90 degree joint between countertop and wall). However, your choices will most likely be limited as not all tile collection include a cove piece. It's just not used all that often. Experts suggest that if you simply meet the wall tile to the floor tile, that joint must be caulked. For more information on that method, ask the tile expert here on the forum, Bill Vincent. That is his preferred method. I am doing this very thing in our laundry room in a few months and I have still not decided what I want to do. If it is cove, that piece will be installed first and then the floor and wall tile abutted to it (no cove on top of any other tile). If I find a tile I cannot live without, however, I'll choose Bill's preferred method and have the installer caulk that seam. In any event, I'll ask my installer to make sure the floor and wall are watertight as there is no guarantee my washer one day won't leak.

We are having this dilemma in real time. they just stained the 1st floor of our 2013 built home. I wanted to refresh because the kids beat them up with scooters, etc when we first moved in and also the color ambered a lot over the years and was looking VERY orange... so we said let's just do the first floor since the 2nd is in relatively good shape but does have that more warm/amber tone. So now we have a custom blend downstairs going up the front stairs and the existing Early American on White Oak on the 2nd floor. See pics... I thought I could live with it, but now I'm 2nd guessing and wondering if we need to do the 2nd floor too... thoughts, photos welcome!

I'm getting 2 styles and 2 colors by 1 mfr -- one for perimeter, one for island. I like the beadboard look (cream island) but didn't want a whole kitchen in that (maple Shaker-ish perimeter). I was careful to make sure the door styles "felt" right together (they have the same size recessing, if that makes any sense, and generally the same plain-ish feel). I had a negative experience in replacing a broken door in my current kitchen -- the guy tried hard to match the style but it was a little off, and eventually the stain faded differently than the stain on the original cabinets. Based on these 2 experiences, I'm ok with the idea of 2 separate cabinet doors in 2 separate spaces (I think it's a trendy idea, if you care), as long as there is some design continuity. On the subject of stain/color, even if you buy the exact same stain from the same mfr who has never changed the formula (lots of ifs there), stain that is 5 years old will look different than stain that is brand new, so I would vote for not hoping they match. Is buying paint grade & refacing all cabinets an option for you?

You don't NEED to match the stain color of the floors, as they are not adjoining - however, you should at least keep the floors in the same tone family. Grey and dark honey don't seem to fit. I have to agree with your husband on this one.