Understory container tree for Zone 9B? (San Antonio)
bobstrauss
4 years ago
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Epiphyte suggestions for a tree in 9b, CA?
Comments (6)Bahia, Thanks for all the great suggestions. I am a member and I hope to make it to the Strybing sale. I'm a big fan of their sales, but I have yet to go to one of the major ones. My P. 'Mission Dolores', P. gritensis, P. exoniensis, Salvia dombeyi, and Brugmansia vulcanicola (hybrid) are all from their smaller monthly sales. I've seen both P. antioquiensis and P. membranacea at the monthly sales several times, for those who are looking for those plants. The vines are all young, but the P. membranacea is the one that scares me because it grows so fast--I'm constantly hacking at it. The P. 'Mission Dolores' and P. exoniensis are in 5 gallon pots, so they are constrained in size. The other two are much smaller (but in the ground) in a small space. I'll be forced to keep them reasonably small. I do have a couple others in the ground that are fairly large (P. tripartita and P. edulis) and a few others in pots as well. Gary, I used to have a lot more orchids when I lived in L.A. and I really should try more up here. We are right on the edge for being able to grow a lot of high altitude plants (and this includes the Passifloras and Brugmansias I listed above) because of our extremes in temperature and low humidity in the summer. Afternoon shade, a protected spot and lots of moisture are key for growing those guys here. Here is a link that might be useful: Plant sales at Stybing (San Francisco Botanical Garden)...See MoreKeeping tropicals warm in zone 9b
Comments (34)I'm not finding the thread now where I wondered whether I should prune a particular branch on my 18-month-old Alphonso mango or not, just as a flush of growth was winding down during the summer--but I did prune it. I had pruned the rest of the tree awhile earlier and it was growing like crazy, a little too much so in this one spot--it was just one solitary branch going almost to the ground. And then it just sat there looking stumped. In October (!) the tree finally responded to that pruning with a flush of tender new growth, there and in one other random spot; slower than summer, but still, five new branches, and now there's budding. So cool. (Is it normal for it to be budding in November?) But why I most wanted to come back was to thank Stanofh for his help. For the advice that my Alphonso mango needed to be kept warmer than I'd been doing in order for it to bloom. This is a warmer fall than last year's, which helps, but I've been putting my two frost cover layers over the tree right at sundown rather than waiting for the temps to get down into the fifties--what I'd read previously was that it just had to stay above 40 for the inflorescence and that cold prompts it to start budding. That appears to have been incomplete information at best. And I reset the temp control attached to the incandescent Christmas lights to click on sooner. I went looking again for a book, any book, on how to grow them and found one by Lee Reich that had a short entry on mangoes. He said they have to stay above 55 consistently to flower. Which is pretty much what Stanofh had said. So I guess there's cold and there's its idea of what cold is supposed to mean. Stanofh, when I taste my first homegrown mango I will be thanking you for it....See MoreIs it gonna' freeze again in San Antonio?
Comments (24)I could not bear to look at fallen leaves and plants anymore, so I've started to clean all beds and plants. I have pruned back the larger Lantana plants, so now is the shots very vulnerable to wind and cold nights. I'll guess I take one of the branches from our dead christmas tree and lay on top of the sprouts. We often use fir branches for that home in Scandinavia. Garden fleece is also useful for that since fir does not grow here. We'll just cross our fingers and hope for the best....See MoreLandscape suggestions for San Diego (zone 10)
Comments (20)I agree with the advice to hire a local designer. The yard is too chopped up to make meaningful suggestions from the pictures. Based on the "like succulents" comment, I would remove any shrubs that are in the "green meatball" stage which is overly sheared because it was in appropriately planted to begin with and replace with shrubs that are more casual to compliment the tropical palm look. A proper irrigation set up would also be advised when doing the renovation or as a first phase. Also consider using synthetic turf in areas where the old grass died but not as much square footage to save on overall costs. Maintenance should also be a consideration when developing a new design. Homeowners who are not willing to spend time in their gardens should have primarily plants that are diehard and tolerate neglect. Container plants need to be properly watered on their own irrigation station separate from the plants in the ground. The best bang for your buck would be to hire a local APLD certified designer to do at least these three things: 1) Recommend what to keep and what to remove (may or may not need to create a sketch, but could use the aerial photo to create zones or spaces to refer to 2) Develop a plant palette / list of plants 3) Hire them back to perform the placement after demo and irrigation is set up (This assumes no hardscape will be added or modified) Laypersons and contractors who are simply the installers who simply follow a plan of a planting plan don't realize that if the designer were digging the holes for the plants, they would invariably move them to appropriate spots regardless of where they appear on the plan. Field placement is far better than relying on a 2 dimensional plan. But not all designers get to be present during installation. That is one drawback of a design only unless you are willing to do it yourself and hire them back for the install process. If you do hire a designer, make sure the preliminary design is sent to a few licensed contractors who can give pricing and make sure the preliminary design is sufficiently detailed so as to provide meaningful pricing rather than ballpark figures....See Morebobstrauss
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gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)