We ended up with a Broan 'Power Pack' with an external blower. (see link below photo) We had the upper cabinet constructed with a center channel for the duct so we could still have shelves on each side, plus the duct is covered so it looks great. The results are mixed. On the plus side, the appearance is great. The Broan Power Pack (the part that installs in the cabinet) it only four inches high, so it eats very little cabinet space, and it uses just an eight-inch duct, so the channel width is reasonable. (Need a bit extra width in the channel so the installers can tape the duct connections.) With the cab doors closed, everything is covered up. With the doors open, it looks clean and we get the convenient shelf space. And with the 600cfm blower, cooking odors get sucked up nicely. But there are negatives. One is that the Power Pack is cheaply made, but what should you expect for a mere $400?!? (We would have spent more on something nicer, but neither Broan nor anyone else makes something similar with better quality.) Both the fan and lights are controlled by flimsy plastic sliding switches. The housing and the decorative cover bend out of shape easily. And it's difficult, if not impossible, to get the decorative cover to lay flat against the bottom of the cabinet. (Spent only an hour on that issue so far...hoping another 2-3 hours will get it to fit right.) The remote blower (another $400) is in the attic just above the cabinets. I think the installers had never installed a remote blower. They have it sitting right on the joists so some vibration transfers to the cabinets. In the upper cabinet just to the right of the vent hood cabinet, and right below the blower, are drinking glasses. If the glasses are touching each other, we hear the tinkling sound of the glasses vibrating against each other when the blower is on. Separating them fixes the problem. The blower is a bit noisy, but not excessive. But, in some parts of the kitchen you hear an annoying low frequency noise. It's weird. You don't hear it standing at the cooktop, but three feet away you do. The installation instructions include an option to hang the blower from chains attached to the roof supports, which might have addressed the issue. I'm thinking of putting some sort of rubber-like material between the blower and the joists to act as shock absorbers. The point is if you get an external blower, think thru where and how it's mounted. (Note on photo: Backsplash tile is, literally, on a slow boat from China...was on backorder for 2-1/2 months.) Here is a link that might be useful: Broan Power Pack

Our Zephyr Cyclone range hood is now installed. No assistants were needed. The trick was to screw and tape the 3.25 x 10 to 6" round adapter pipe to the new hood so that when lifted into position the pipe pokes through the wall and supports most of the hood weight. By holding the front of the hood up to the cabinet bottom the 1" electrical shielded electrical cable access hole and the four support screw holes were marked. Using a 9" drill bit extender I was able drill the the support holes with the hood in place. The hood was functioning by the time dinner needed to be cooked. DW's only critical comment was that the two 40 watt lamps were too bright on the high setting. They are not recessed enough to be completely shielded by the hood for shorter folks, so they become a glare source. A PAR 20 50W halogen lamp also works in the hood fixtures but sticks out about an inch rather than being almost flush like the 40 watt non-halogen bulbs supplied with the hood. To finish tomorrow I will install a new Broan exterior duct cap with damper. There is an impressive outflow of air at all three fan speeds as felt from the outside vent opening. The lower two speeds should be adequate for nearly all cooking activities and the noise is acceptable. If we had billowing smoke then the 650CFM third speed would be welcome. The prior hood was rated 180CFM and was very loud at anything beyond the minimum speed. This black hood looks great with our new black Electrolux slide-in range. The 22.5 inch hood depth matches the 22" maximum front burner distance from the back wall.

houses14, my Imperial range hood is not an insert, rather an under cabinet ss hood. However, the materials used, and the quality of construction, the fan motors, are the same with minor variances to allow for space restrictions within the smaller size of my hood. Construction wise, it is all that I had hoped for, was easy to install, and has functioned beautifully. Packaging and shipping were excellent. The ss is marine grade. This means that the amount of chromium in the ss will prevent rust from forming in the interior of the hood over time. The electrician informed me that their fan motors and switches appeared to be top quality. The warranty for my hood is 7 years, which is almost unheard of in the industry. Their specifications and installation instructions are right on to allow for optimal operation. For example, my duct is 8" from hood to roof jack and had to have a certain rise in height from the hood before the first angle in the duct work. Baffles remove and reinstall easily for cleaning. It was a joy to call Imperial direct with technical questions at their manufacturing headquarters in California. Someone was always immediately available to answer my questions regarding their vent hoods or recommended installation. My installer was promptly referred to their engineer for technical assistance as I requested that the wiring that would automatically turn on my hood once a certain temperature below the hood was reached be disconnected as I did not want that feature. To me, having that level of service available when answers are needed means a great deal. I found that the folks at headquarters were always honest even if it wasn't the answer I wanted and that they knew their stuff. Their light and fan switches are continuously variable which is rare on vent hoods. This means that they both function like a rheostat with a continuous increase, or decrease, rather than clicking up or down discreet notches, such as level 1 to 4. Also, I liked having the option of installing the switches wherever I wanted remotely, rather than being mounted to the underside of the hood. The hood easily handles removal of odors, steam or grease beneath it's surface. I've found that if the hood is allowed to run for about 10 minutes prior to cooking that it can be operated at a lower level and do a good job. The hood on low is fairly quiet but is noisier than I had anticipated at higher levels with having dual fans and baffles. Also, highest cfm level is 1000 which is a factor. However, I used a different size led bulb than Imperial recommended. I now have a gap around the bulb that needs to be filled with a rubber gasket. Also, the temporary roof jack is too large, and the correct one is waiting to be installed so the jury is still out on the noise issue. Noise level was quite an issue for me, but even if it remains unchanged, I would still buy the same hood given how pleased I am with the overall operation and that I can easily live with the noise that I now have. I'll have to look up the name of the online vendor I used and will add that information tonight.

I would not trust screws only into the cabinet bottom. Build out the wall behind where the hood will go, using lumber, so that you can also screw into something solid along the wall. Better yet, find a deeper hood...