We're in the same Boston area, and we have a natural gas boiler with steam heat. The boiler dates from the 1970s, and it works just fine. The water gets drained monthly. However, it's old enough to become problematic, and rather than take chances, we're thinking of replacing it. Besides, a new one would surely be more efficient. Several years ago Bay State Gas gave us an estimate for a Weil-McLain EG35. Prices rise, but at that time, the proposal was $6,430, including everything - electrician, labor, permits, boiler,stock & removal & 1-year service plan. A price like that is about what we see on line, We're just beginning our shopping, and trying to do our best in product quality, workmanship & price. People who know what they're doing (e.g. the staff at Economy Plumbing Supply in Dorchester) think the rebate is much higher than the $200 on the quote though, and we'd like opinions about boilers that might have been bought/installed by area homeowners. Has anyone had work done by Rob Weinstein, Al Pell or Bob Donahue? They seem like competent plumbers, and we plan to find comments on the 'net - and who can tell without experience?

Anything you put in the spot is going to cost at least some money invested. I don't understand what you refer to as all the "maintenance and mess" associated with live plants. There are carefree houseplants that don't drop leaves, don't need to be watered except a few time a year, never need to be pruned or split, ect. What were you growing before?? Maybe one of us can make a few suggestions for low maintenance plants that will fit your decor and zone. You are Zone 6 but does this enclosed porch face the sun all day or is it shaded? Also, maybe you would not find caring for houseplants tiresome work if you were growing something that you can use like chives or lavender? There are lots of pretty plants that you can eat.

I wish I could do a regular downdraft hood, but I can't. I think replacing the old downdraft requires that also I look at the venting and cabinent space carefully.and see if the original venting was adequate and how much space i'll lose in the center island cabinent.. I don't know if I should have an HVAC person look at what was done before. I can see the $ adding up fast! The disturbing part is that after all the $ and work, I'll end up with something that has marginal performance and probably won't be much better than what I have. However, when it fails, I may not be able us us the existing butcher block island because of the cutout and installation of the new induction cook-top. So the choice seems to be, spend a lot for something that won't be much better than what I have, but avoid facing a problem later.. Pick the poison!

Great questions, thank you all! Yes, in my mind the kitchen and the dinette are the same room. The transition in the photograph is the only transition in the house. On the hardwood side, the hardwood extends throughout the entire house. Here, it bumps up against the kitchen/dinette area, which has this vinyl glued onto plywood, which floats a half centimeter above the hardwood, creating a small trip hazard. Our style is definitely mid century modern with fun bohemian touches. We have a lot of artwork that’s fun and whimsical, and it’s a pretty small house. So while I’m open to a bold flooring choice, I also don’t want it to feel cluttered or busy. I love our hardwood and really wish it extended into the kitchen! But I’m worried if we got new hardwood installed in the kitchen/dinette area, it wouldn’t match and it would look weird. And I don’t want to pay to refinish the old hardwood, because it’s in good shape and it extends all through the house! That would be a lot of refinishing! So it seems like the best option would be...something else that’s not this horrible vinyl. Cork titles? A more updated vinyl? Having never had glued-on vinyl before, will I have to replace the subfloor when we pull it up? Should we get something installed on top of the vinyl that’s already there, or will that just further heighten the trip hazard?