Trim! Help solve our problem.
The plan was to have our trim match our refinished and new red oak hardwood floors. We went with water-based finish to get rid of the orange tone in the floors. But now that some of the trim has been installed I’m pretty sure they used oil-based on it, and it’s just not working.
we are loathe to paint trim because we love natural wood, but that’s the only solution we can come up with on our own. So, I am turning this dilemma over to all of you.
The trim goes throughout the main floor as does the floor. We intended to keep the windows as is, but again, the trim is really clashing there as well.
Thanks!
Comments (16)
branson4020
4 years ago
PROSabrina Alfin Interiors
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Pls. help us solve our animal mystery....
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Comments (2)I thought about that but had hesitated for a couple of reasons . . . first, the affected part of the chimney runs from about 8 feet to 17 feet above ground, and over the HVAC units, so the access to it is limited and precarious. Not that it couldn't be done, but it's a lot colder and more dangerous than working on the inside. Probably the bigger concern is just not wanting to mess with the "envelope" of the house, even though in this case it's not a very effective envelope :-) I was concerned that pulling out so much caulk and having it exposed might lead to other problems. I'm posting a photo of the space. If I go in from the outside I'd be filling a gap about 8 inches deep, an inch wide (between the stud and the chimney)and the same 9 feet tall. The space marked on the left photo below is what I'd be aiming for if I go through the bookcase. If I go from the outside I'd be in the space to the right of that space. Those are 6" external studs, plus one more turned sideways, so probably about 7 or 8 inches of lumber, a 1" gap, and then the brick chimney. Is Great Stuff reliable for keeping out moisture until the caulk goes over it? Once it's cured I don't think it's water soluble, right?...See MorePlease Help Me Solve An Awkward Ceiling Problem
Comments (20)If I understand what you are saying, you won't see a triangle at all. If you create a flat wall across the front that finishes the tray (you may have to move those recessed fixtures) from the kitchen you will see the flat wall straight across. If you are at the sink and look up, you will see the edge of the wall and then you will see the angled part of the ceiling as it rises to meet the flat part of the bkft nook ceiling, just as you see the angled part on the sides and back of the tray. I wish I had an electronic way to model it for you, but I don't have any fancy software. Maybe someone else does. Or maybe you can model it yourself. Take a piece of paper and fold it in half lengthwise, then fold one half in half again, but cheat it so the fold is closer to the center fold. Then create tray...the half is the flat ceiling in the nook, the short quarter is at a right angle to it, the long quarter is angled toward the nook. Then hold it up over your head. That is what you will see when you look up...of course in real life the ends will be flat across the kitchen wall, angled with mitered corners into the breakfast nook, just as the other corners of the tray are angled....See MoreHelp me solve this difficult problem.
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4 years ago- PRO
Sabrina Alfin Interiors
4 years ago Shannon A
4 years agolast modified: 4 years ago
jhmarie
4 years agoTrim does not need to match floors - it often does not. It is good that the trim and floors be in the same color family - one would not mix gray floors with warm wood trim - but your mix is fine and I think more interesting because it does not perfectly match. Also, different wood cuts can absorb stain differently as well as the reflection of light on horizontal vs vertical surfaces will make differences.
Examples:
Shannon A
4 years agoyvonnecmartin
4 years agocsevene
4 years agomle0782
4 years ago
PROBeth H. :
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoeven if he used oil base, it doesn't yellow (or amber) for many many years. what stain did you use? red oak is naturally pinkish toned, so if you use a red based stain, it will look warmer or more orange toned. That's what you're seeing. it's not the clear coat.
you can try changing your bulbs to a cooler temp which give off more blue tones (blue will neutralize some of the yellow tones). try something above 4000K temperature.
the only other way is to sand and stain. or you could try going darker. say an ashy medium brown. like a walnut. anything ash or green based will cancel out the red in the wood. stay away from any warmer, red toned stains.
any of these would take away the orange look
ci_lantro
4 years agoShannon A
4 years ago
PROAnderson Woodworks
4 years agocat_ky
4 years ago
jhmarie