Green Carpet Needs Your Help! :P
Mia og
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
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Mia og
4 years agoRelated Discussions
need winterizing help a.s.a.p.
Comments (34)Leon, you are right that I am making an envelope out of it just one layer thick. I think it is important to have a wide contact area on the ground, to get as much heat out of the ground. Remember that a couple feet down there is a 55-degree heat radiator which is downright toasty when its 0F in the air! So I would not make it too narrow. I don't tie down my branches at all, I just prune them. Fignut, I must have used around 120' for my two rows: 30' of row length, two sides, and double height. To figure out how much to use on a tree just go run a string around it at the widest spot and measure the length. I built the covers in-place: I just wrapped the stuff around the trees. If anyone is going to try this, here are a couple more tips. I found the best attachment technique to build the envelope is to staple every couple of inches. The staple seam I use is an "outsie", with the two sheets put back to back and stapled an inch or so from the edges. I originally used somewhat more widely spaced staples but it ripped apart there so I went to 2" spacing. You need to have the cover low enough that it touches the ground on all sides. If it is not touching everywhere the wind will come in and ruin your effort. It is also very important to have some way to firmly attach the bottoms and to "cinch" a rope around it. Before I figured out how to attach it well I had the covers blowing all over my yard. Running ropes over the top does some good but the cover can still slide all over if it is not attached to the ground. To attach to the ground I mainly use ground staples (6"-long tine staples). If you hammer them all the way in and use enough of them, say one per foot, that cover is not coming up. If you don't use enough ground staples the cover may come up and rip a hole where the staple was. One other thing I do is when I get them on there may be a few branches keeping the cover from getting on all the way. I then get under the cover and prune back the offending limbs. I do prune before putting the covers on but there always seems to be a couple limbs that are keeping the cover from coming down all the way. Scott...See MoreAnyone have frieze carpet upstairs? I need your help!!
Comments (5)We installed Friese throughout our upper level as well as the stairs and love it! We've had it for 2.5 years and if you look closely you can see where we walk the most on the stairs, but it doesn't bother us because it doesn't show any dirt, feels so soft on your feet and it still looks/feels brand new. No offense but I hate Berber because it lacks all of the qualities that the Frieze has. And for years I've heard the professionals push the Berber claiming it's easier to maintain and cleans well, but I've yet to seen an installation that proves that to be true. On the other hand, we have an older cat that has gotten sick a couple of times on our Frieze and it cleaned really well. We took a tiny bit of laundry detergent watered down on a wet towel, blotted out the mess and then blotted it dry afterward and it cleaned beautifully. I would have happily installed it on the entry level as well, but we have wood flooring. Instead, I'm considering having a large piece cut & bound to use as a rug in our living room....See MoreCarpet Novice Needs Help with Karastan SmartStrand Carpet Choice
Comments (6)Hi all, Just wanted to circle back for the benefit of anyone in the future who looks at this question. We went back and compared the carpet we chose to the "true friezes" and "true saxonies" they had. This Essential Living is something Karastan calls a "textured saxony." Fiber is much, much thicker, and considerable looser than a real saxony. Unlike the saxony, you can't make lasting footprints (or draw smiley faces as my son did), in the Essential Living carpet. About the same texture as the friezes, just a teeny bit longer and a little bit looser, and a bit softer. It's not as long as I remember it, and carpet vendor says they've had lots of experience putting it on stairs with no wear or safety issues. With his guidance we did scale the padding on the stairs back to a dense, thinner, pretty unyielding felt that should reduce concerns about too much padding/curve on stair treads. Thanks so much for all your help!...See MoreI need HELP, before i have to refinance my house to care for my p
Comments (12)Ahhh...so you've used Baquacil for the last 6 years until now? Yes? You didnt' say that in your first post. And right now you're using chlorine tabs in your skimmer and shocking the pool with a chlorine or non-chlorine based product for sanitizer instead of the Baquacil peroxide "shock"? Just trying to get this all straight. Are you in the middle of a Baquacil to chlorine conversion? That is a specific process, and it takes some patience to do, during which you'll see different water colors and clarity as you convert. Of course, as you already probably know using an OTO test (which shows yellow in the presence of chlorine and tests up to 5 ppm of Total Chlorine only)...a brownish red color means that you have a much higher level of Total Chlorine (Free Chlorine plus Combined Chloramines)in the water. You'd need to use an FAS/DPD drop test to very accurately determine up to 50 ppm how much Free Chlorine, Combined Chlorine and Total Chlorine you have. I use this test on my own pool frequently and it's very easy to use. I still stand by my advice. There are detailed instructions and help on TFP for Baquacil users who need/want to convert to a less expensive product, as well as immediate help with your specific issues. Cheers and I hope you get your problem solved and get back to enjoying your pool!...See MoreK Laurence
4 years agoBeverlyFLADeziner
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