I know of no building code in the US that recognizes "equivalent" R value for a reflective radiant barrier (other than the R value for the air space) although the barrier will definitely lower your energy costs. Maybe there is a performance trade-off you haven't told us about or a code amendment for your jurisdiction. I would have expected the designer and/or builder to have anticipated providing space for the code required insulation before starting the foundations. Why are insulating companies proposing R 20 if the code requires R38? What R value was shown on the building permit drawings? Your entire post is a conundrum. Even with no venting and closed cell spray foam you will need at least 2x6 roof framing which looks to be the case although it would be helpful if you told us the space available. I suspect there is something important you haven't told us about this project. For instance, if you are using the Prescriptive compliance method and if the roof insulation is full height over the exterior wall top plate, the R38 requirement can be reduced to R30. Is that the case? This reduction does not apply to the U-Factor, Total UA Alternatives or Performance compliance methods. Another way to reduce the Rvalue requirement is to use software that allows tradeoffs between different parts of the envelope. Any of these insulation design methods must be calculated and recorded and approved in the building permit documents. You should not be discussing the required roof R value with contractors.

Thanks ILoveRed; did you ever build that wonderful house? The forum seems to have taken a turn for the worse when members were allowed to advertise their commercial status. Remember when business use of the forum would have cost you your membership and put a picture of the tea cups ride on your screen? Did you know the PRO badge turns green when you've filled out all of your profile and have 3 reviews, etc.? You get rewards for supporting the new business model. Of course, in the old days the contractors hated architects and that seems to be coming back. MightyAnvil got kicked around a bit but Renovator 8 didn't. Its odd that Corbu2 wasn't pegged as an architect. Rita, thanks for paying attention; I appreciate it. The historic architecture of Edgartown looks wild and crazy compared to Nantucket, however, the variety of architecture on the Vineyard is impressive. I took some French friends through the historic district and it felt like a final exam in architectural history. Of course, they didn't think the 1700's were very old. Unfortunately, the very early buildings have been lost. Vacation houses arrived in the 20's. Ahearn's favorite style is the Shingle Style and its the most eclectic style of all, allowing much room for personal expression and he makes good use of it. I found Kevin's house at 8 Chambers Way, Edgartown. I hope he comes back to claim it someday. $950,000

I really appreciate all your comments and suggestions. In rethinking this, we’ve decided to move the dining room table to the left of the kitchen, ditch the banquette and turn the former dining room into a morning room/library. (I am having trouble giving up my existing house and I was attempting to take many of the rooms we now have and recreate them in this proposed house. Both my husband and the building designer had suggested otherwise but it wasn’t until reading all your comments that I finally realized this just wasn’t going to work. ). I think this arrangement will work really well. Greenfish1234, I love the house pictured in the link you sent. Our proposed house looks very similar, flipped so the garage is on the opposite side, with a shed dormer above. It will then have the master bedroom wing where the garage of your picture is. And there is enough room over the mud room to connect the bonus room with the rest of the upstairs and include a bathroom there. I also think your suggestion about finishing the bonus room later is a good one, and that was our original intent; however, when I tried to fit my husband’s TV into the plan downstairs, it just didn’t work. We compromised by deciding to finish the mud room sooner, rather than later. And if it seems too expensive, we’ll just have it finished to the drywall and flooring and my husband can do the rest later. He’ll be retired at that point, his “shop” will move into the basement and he’d love having a project to work on. My existing furniture will fit there perfectly and it will get the morning sun.

I would leave the left bed other than to add some ground cover shorter bushes (about 1 foot tall) to soften the look. On the right side I would take a hose and layout a large perhaps kidney shaped bed. Play with the hose until you get a look you like. Incorporate the tree. In this area I would plant shrubs of different sizes and textures and some of the same bushes that you plant on the left. Keep what is existing if it is healthy. I would be so bold as to incorporate both trees and have plantings down the front side of the walkway to the door. In other words, a circular area around the driveway tree becoming a straight bed along the sidewalk to the entrance and then becoming the curvy shape on the right side, incorporating that tree. Please remember to check the full grown sizes of the plants/shrubs you buy. You don't want to overcrowd. Also, boxwoods come in different sizes. I prefer to plant small and let it grow, but you might not want to if you want instant impact. Look into flowering shrubs. Try to make sure there is year round attraction (evergreens mixed in with deciduous). Maybe even add a bench under the tree on the right!