help.Cabinets in today-duct in floor&no duct to toe kick register?
Hi all...we're in the middle of a new build-cabinets are being installed today-question on toe kick a/c register.
The hvac company put 2 standard rectangle openings under cabinets-one under kitchen sink cabinet, and one under master bath sink cabinet. Gypcrete was poured, and the floor is flush with the metal piping.
We called them this morning, realizing they havent installed the hvac ducting from the opening in the floor that will go to the register in the toe kick....they said they werent going to-they were going to leave it open.
(sorry-only pic i could find with short notice...in the bottom mid of this pic-see (part of) rectangle duct in floor--they're going to leave this and let the air blow into the bottom of the cabinet, then out the toe kick duct. This doesnt seem right? It should be ducted from the hole in the floor to the toe kick register, right?)
This cant be right?
To add to my concern, we are installing cabinets directly on unsealed gypcrete (with shims)-which I've heard can be dusty over time.
I also dont understand how they could plan to do it this way----when, previously I'd let them know I wanted to get some different register covers than the standard ones they provide-and they made a bit of a fuss over needing to have me let them know exactly which ones we were getting-so they could check with the manufacturer on the specs to see if it would work with their calculations on pressure, etc for the system. How can they do any type of pressure/blower test when it blows out under a cabinet?
Help. Am I off track in wanting the hold in the floor ducted to be connected to the toe kick vent-so we dont lose pressure, we dont blow dust from under the cabinet out into our room, and we dont waste energy cooling off under the cabinet area-which is not sealed?
We're going to call back after I do some reasearch-but would appreciate any input you could provide...as I'd like to be informed when I have the conversation with the PM.
At this point-cabinets will be installed today--so I guess we ask the cabinet guys to remove the floor from those two cabinets and keep the toekicks off if we end up 'special ordering' the parts to have this ducting installed.
There are so many details in doing this build---its such a gift but we're so tired. We thought we were all ready for the cabinets to be put in :(
Thanks for your input.
Comments (13)
PROPatricia Colwell Consulting
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Comments (42)Any time the flow of air (or part of the air) has to change its velocity vector (direction and/or speed), even slightly, work is done on the air, and this requires either heating or force times distance. Pressure is force over area. Velocity change occurs not only when a duct bends, but when there is turbulence in the duct or at the duct walls, or when the air is forced through a filter, around baffles, etc. Thus, there are many ways that pressure drops occur along a flow path. If not, one could blow through a straw without having to build up pressure in one's mouth. I use a large (three-foot-square) vaned ceiling diffuser to introduce MUA into a hallway adjunct to the kitchen. The diffuser is about 18 feet from the edge of the hood. This configuration was the best option relative to where I could take the air from the roof area. It is my expectation that by the time the air gets to the vicinity of the hood it is flowing relatively smoothly and low in velocity due to the size and length of the hall. Certainly other approaches would work for other kitchens depending on where the air is taken from and how a house is architected. Test kitchens use a porous diffuser panel in an adjacent wall to the hood under test. I am sure that from a functional point of view, MUA flowing out from enough toe-kick area would also work, so long as it wasn't somehow directed at the stove. For example, if a cooktop were on an island, and the entire toe-kick area were grilled using a set of registers, the MUA would flow out and then up in a way that did not disturb the rising effluent from the pans. Even down flow behind a refrigerator can work if the path behind and underneath the refrigerator is relatively open (several times the area of the supplying duct.) Never forget that perfect is the enemy of good enough, and what we are trying to accomplish is good enough capture of grease, moisture, and odor. Good enough is also user dependent, so not everyone needs to put up with the compromises that a nearly perfect MUA system would impose on a house. So, my best advice is to find a way to introduce the air that doesn't blow at the cooking zone and disturb the natural rise of the cooking effluent. kas...See Moremodern-functioning kitchen in a pre-1850 house
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Karenseb
4 years agocountry_girl_at_heart
4 years agoerinsean
4 years agocountry_girl_at_heart
4 years ago
acm
4 years agomike_home
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agovinmarks
4 years agoUser
4 years agolast modified: 4 years ago
PRODebbi Washburn
4 years agoI am not sure why they are saying they need to order a special piece - I would think a simple elbow and length of ducting would be enough. Your picture doesn't show the location well of where the vent is compared to the toe kick. I feel like any tin guy should be able to handle this fairly easily - but do not install the cabinets - this all needs to be set underneath.
Here are some pics I found online...maybe they will help
Good luck!
PROCreative Design Cabinetry
4 years ago
PROHALLETT & Co.
4 years ago
mike_home