Contractor went with 8' studs instead of 9' for 9' ceilings?
jsbr5000
4 years ago
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4 years agojsbr5000
4 years agoRelated Discussions
9 1/2" I-joist or 11 7/8"?
Comments (5)Ren8, L360 is the 11" joist. The builder has not specified which 9" one we would use; I presume the heaviest. We do have laundry on the second floor, but I guess that's more of a constant vibration, not something which would cause a lot of bounce? The reason I'm considering this is to give us more room in our entry. If I have to do the height between floors with the 11" i-joist, then would have a 109" floor to floor distance. For this, I need 15 rises/14 treads on the stairs (14 rises would give me 7.79", too tall for the code's max of 7.75"). Using Ren8's formula, 15 rises and 14 treads should be R=7.26R T=10.3, leaving only 3'8" between the front door and the stairs. If I could have a 107" floor to floor, I could do 14 rises/13 treads, R=7.64 T=10, with a 14" shorter running, leaving 5' between the front door and stairs. I can push the stairs back without making upstairs bedrooms smaller (they are already at a minimum). While the 3'8 isn't the end of the world, the 5' entry sure would be nice, which is why I'm trying to get a handle on the difference between the i-joists. I really have no idea which is appropriate, and I don't know how I would decide unless I could find similar houses with each joist, obviously not really a possibility. Thanks for the thoughts. Here is a link that might be useful: Link with floor plans (stair rise/run shown is not ideal)...See More9' Ceilings- should cabinets go to ceiling?
Comments (36)Jakuval: I like that plinth idea. How can I use that idea at the end of a run? On one side of my kitchen the side of the cabinets face the family room. Since the crown is so big, my return of the crown means I would have to pull that cabinet in from the end of the wall about 5" + in order to return the crown. The cabinet there is already not that wide and to take another 5" off of the width of it shorts me too much cabinet space. Here is a sketch. How can I finish the crown here and still bring my cabinet almost to the edge of the wall?...See MoreAdvice on renovating a tiny 8'9 x 8'3 kitchen in a 150 year old home!
Comments (41)I am so gracious for all of these comments and feedback. You guys are really helping me to target my objective here. While I could spend more on a total remodel, it really is "unnecessary". I realize that the decent sized formal dining room is a plus. Also, optimally, at some point down the line, I'd like to extend the back of my home by five feet and add a floor (giving me a larger kitchen and enlarging the size of the bedroom above it, which is the same size). At that point, a total remodel would make the most sense. So perhaps for now, the NON PERMIT route might be the best path to take to get some modernity in the home while keeping the expenses low. I've been looking at homes in towns near me which have kitchens with similar square footage, yet sell for $200K+ more than my home. Here is an example. Their kitchen is 12x7. They have their refrigerator in an adjacent pantry (this home is over $200K more than my own!) A NON PERMIT route with "storage tricks" (i.e. slide out spice racks, smaller fridge, ceiling cabinets) sounds like the right path. I get to save on not having to move plumbing/gas/electrical. @mama goose_gw zn6OH and @mnmamax3 I see your point about the off-putting feeling of coming out of the powder room into the dining room/kitchen area. While this might be the cheapest way to get a powder room because of the existing closet door, since I'd need a permit to construct a powder room anyway, perhaps a better entrance would be a new door constructed along the door of the hallway, sealing off the existing closet door, or turning that existing closet into a shallower closet. I believe the wall down the hallway is load bearing. This could be the modified floor plan which puts the entrance to the powder room in the hallway. Would it be a 100% NO to put a 24" refrigerator where my drop leaf table pot rack and radiator are? If I were to put it in that spot, there would be 3" between the fridge and radiator. On the other hand, if I went with the 24" refrigerator in the place of where the 30" one is now, I'd get 18" of counter space between it and the 30" oven instead of the 8" I have now!...See More8 ft French doors with 9 ft ceilings?
Comments (11)If all the other doors are 6’8”, no, it won’t look right. Consistency is important. The issue here was the original decision to use 6’8“ doors in the first place. It has locked you into an expensive all or nothing change scenario. You’re also potentially introducing incompatible structural alterations, and exterior cladding changes, with moving the header up. It depends on the load that the wall carries. Get out your plans and have the structural evaluated first. Improper flashing won’t be confined to the doors. Start inspecting all of the penetrations. From the roof through the dryer vent. All require flashing. https://www.buildingscience.com/documents/information-sheets/common-flashing-details...See MoreUser
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