Just harvested a mess of Chantarelles!
7 years ago
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- 7 years ago
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vermicomposting mess!!!
Comments (5)Most of your worms will be in the top few inches of material...stuff that has the choicest food in it. Scrape that off and put it into another bin (is this a standard 18 gal. tote?). That would be the bin you keep when you move. The material towards the bottom should be good enough to use as vermicompost for the garden. Since you have several weeks, I'd suggest the onion bag harvesting method (see link below). Repeat the process a few times to harvest most of the worms. If you really have tons of worms, then give them away as has been suggested. Otherwise just add them to the new bin. Once most of the worms have been harvested, the remaining vermicompost can be put into a cardboard box and left for the community garden to use. You should take some of the vermicompost to use in your new garden...maybe a small box or bag. Good luck. It sounds like you did a great job with your first wormery. Andrew Here is a link that might be useful: onion bag harvesting method...See MoreNext step for pocket feeding when you like to mess w/bin
Comments (10)I'm sorry if my first post sounded critical or unsympathetic. That was not my intent. I was simply offering "thoughts" that you had initially asked for. So, just answers to your questions. I would not shift compost from one section to another. I would move any unfinished food or bedding (the paper you have in section #3) into the active feeding section. Bedding is food if kept damp enough. I would also make sure that each section is touching the sections beside it. Visually, your lateral migration bin appears to be similar to the compost pile turning system. But in your case you would not need to "turn" a section until it was either ready to harvest or it was needed because the final section was full. Ideally section #1 would be ready to harvest just as #6 was getting full. In your original post you describe each of the 4 sections. It sounds like it's working exactly as it should. The majority of the worms are in the newest section where the prime food is. Just continue the progression and harvest #1 when #6 is almost full. I'm sure you've noticed that a section compresses (reduces in volume) as the worms process it. For that reason, I would fill each section to the brim (instead of 2/3 full) before starting to feed the next section. If you look at the height of material in each section from the side, you would see something like a cross-section of stairs. It won't be this clean cut, but imagine #1 = 4" depth, #2 = 6", #3 = 8" and #4 = 10". Since you are using one of the sections to store bedding, you really have 5 working sections. Harvest #1 when you fill #5. I would not "...leave the whole box alone for a few months after I've cycled through the sections maybe twice". Based on the dimensions you cited, each section holds ~8 gal. of material. With the volume reduction you will end up with 5-6 gal. of material to harvest. I personally would do a quick light/pile harvest to remove the larger worms and use the VC as-is. If you want the coffee grind look, then you'll need to screen with 1/8" or 1/4" hardware cloth and dump the chunky remains into #2 to process a little more. Andrew...See MoreBin harvest...My worms have no class
Comments (7)Well, Chuckie, it's safe to say that those mucky conditions are the favorite environment of the worms in your bin! Earthworms derive most of their nutrients from the microorganisms decaying the organic matter they ingest rather than from the organic matter itself, thus, they thrive best in highly biologically active environments. Think of your compost pile; the fastest rate of decomposition takes place in or near the center or the pile where the mass of material creates an insulated space of optimized conditions for the microorganisms that effect decomposition. The same will be true of a worm bin; the most biologically active areas are not typically at the surface, but several inches below, near the center of bottom of the bin where the environment is more stable and protected, typically more damp, and better optimized to support the massive microbial populations that support the worms. Now, toss into this mix the fact that earthworm castings tend to be more biologically active than the feedstock, even well-rotted feedstock, and it begins to make sense that areas of the bin that contain a mix of castings and decomposing OM will be so microbially rich that earthworms will tend to mass there. Add to this the understanding that the mixture of castings and partially decomposed organic matter hold vast amounts of moisture, which worms are always seeking in the greatest quantities they can find, and one begins to see that the surface material in a worm bin will rarely hold the appeal of the deeper system zones! But the mucky areas are stinky, you say? And stinky like this usually means anaerobic, doesn't it? And worms are supposed to dislike anaerobic enviornments, right? Ah, the complexities of biology! If only the answers were that simple! First, earthworms have an extraordinary ability to attach oxygen, thus, even in relatively low oxygen conditions they are often able to catpure enough to stay alive. Second, earthworms are as happy to consume anaerobes as they are aerobes. It is not the micororganisms themselves that can create problems for the worms, but SOME OF the anaerobic byproducts the anaerobes produce; the terpenes, phenols, and alcohols. The thing is, an earthworm is able to tolerate, even thrive, in some levels of these toxins, meaning "the dosage makes the poison". Further, it is not the terpenes, phenols and alcohols that are the most odorous by-products of anaerobic decomposition, thus, just because the bin smells bad to we mere humans does not mean, definitively, that the bin is toxic to the worms. It may well mean that the anaerobic organisms are generating lots more sulfur gasses than they are compounds toxic to earthworms, thus, the environment is very wet and very microbially rich, which the worms adore, very stinky, a condition about which worms don't really care, sufficiently rich in oxygen to keep the worms respiring even if other aerobic organisms find too little oxygen to function, but not enough toxic compounds to cause worm problems. We make a fuss about keeping bins aerobic because it is nearly impossible to maintain a home verimcomposting or vermiculture bin in an anearobic state that we can be sure will never tip into being toxic, and because the smell of an anearobic bin is offensive to we in or near whose homes the bin will kept. Recommendations that the bin be kept as aerobic as possible can, clearly, sometimes erroneously imply that an anaerobic bin is always, be definition, bad. Chuckie's worms are teaching a valuable lesson! Kelly S...See MoreHot mess of a Thanksgiving table centerpiece (IMHO)
Comments (14)Well, if you're going to serve the adults (yeah, the wine glasses prove it isn't the kids' table) Thanksgiving dinner at the island, with the stove right there (and how does YOUR stove look on Thanksgiving day?), you need something to block the view. It's no worse than some centerpieces, would look better in a bread bowl or something, not the clamshell, and the white pumpkins are cute and trendy....See More- 7 years agolast modified: 7 years ago
- 7 years ago
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- 7 years agolast modified: 7 years ago
- 7 years ago
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Annette Holbrook(z7a)Original Author