Orthonex is a systemic, meaning that the poison is designed to be accumulated in the plant's tissues. If I personally were in your shoes, I would definitely toss any plants that may have come into contact with it. Because I'm naturally paranoid about these kinds of things, I'd also remove all of the soil that might have also gotten sprayed-- but that's just me. Either way, it is toxic and meant only for nice looking plants that you wouldn't put anywhere near your mouth. That's what ornamental means. Orthonex was never meant for edible plants.

What is your objective? Hold the dust down? Nice looking lawn? Best looking lawn? Any kind of seeding you do now will be subject to high summer heat and water stress. Chances are that seed planted in April will be dead grass in July. There is a problem with just seeding with fescue. Fescue grows in little clumps. It is called a bunch grass. Kentucky bluegrass grows and fills empty space like a moving carpet. It is called a sod forming grass. Many people mix the two grasses for the various benefits of each one. Since you planted fescue you will only have one little grass plant for each grass seed. If you want it to become more dense without adding KBG, then you need more grass plants (and seeds). Now is not the time to seed for the reason mentioned above. An alternative is to lay sod, but that gets expensive very quickly. If you can wait and maybe tolerate some weeds this season, then the late summer to fall is the time to renovate. I would try to sit on my hands and read all I could here and elsewhere about caring for lawns. Then when the summer heat breaks, spring for some good seed and get to renovating. Folks here can help you with that.

Nearchicago, Phytotoxic means it does hurt the seedlings. You might want to use a dilute solution of hydrogen peroxide instead of bleach. But don't mix hydrogen peroxide and bleach. When you mix bleach with another chemical you run the risk of releasing free chlorine gas, which can be very dangerous. Chlorine was one of the poison gases used in World War I. A better approach might be to skip spraying to kill the mold altogether and simply water from below and use a small fan to create a breeze. The breeze will have several beneficial effects, including making the seedlings sturdier and keeping the surface of growing medium dry. The dry surface can help avoid damping off and might also retard the growth of the mold that you are seeing. MM

Having discovered this wonderful plant whilst travelling some years ago I have now been lucky enough to source 3 or 4 plants. I live in Devon in the UK (South Western most point), but in brief, our clmate in the UK isn't great (although it does have it moments!), but I have had the plants for a year or so and generally they are fairly happy. They live in my kitchen, which, due to a stove, doesn't drop below 21deg celcius, and at this tme of year is usually around 25 degrees - however the stove does tend to keep the humidity down to around 60%. They do get to go outside when the sun is out, but this year hasn't been great so far (!). I have 2 Plumeria rubra rooted cuttings, one 2year old seedling and a newly rooted dwarf singapore (my pride and joy!). Generally I was after some advise - what sort of temperature and humidity ranges are optimum for their growth and flowering, should I mist their leaves, is it likely that I will get them to flower or should I look into grow lights (something that due to the cost of oil / power at the moment I am not really that keen on) and any other top tips etc so I can try to enhance their environment as best as possible. Thanks! Chris