Several insects will get the same oozing of pectin response in peaches and they don't all respond to the same spray regimen. You do need to know if it's from OFM or PC on one hand or stink bugs or tarnished plant bug on the other as the latter couple are more difficult to control with standard spray options. My attitude about peaches is as long as they are giving you vigorous shoot growth as your picture suggests is happening, they are useful as they still produce as good a fruit as ever. Nothing wrong with having backups, and peach trees take very little time to replace, but no need to cut a productive tree down because its trunk is suffering from canker. Peaches benefit from having a lot of grass and weed free soil during the first half of the growing season- they don't compete well with weeds are other trees. I like at least a 5' diameter mulched ring for them.

im sorry.. i didnt read every post, but i read atleast half temp is likely 1 of a combo of issues its an eco system so theres variables high temp breads bad pathogens requiring more vigorious work sterilzing the water so if your temps are high try adding hydrogen peroxide, you could also try using sm90 in the res or dutchmaster zone, hygrozyme.. some use chlorine but its tricky! if you could keep the temps at 65 you would need less of these sterilizers but likely still need them marginally as for lack of air...not likely since the roots are suspended in air.. or are the sitting in the water 24/7 like a DWC cuz then ya it could be loss of air inn the water but with it spraying around consently i dont think so i use an areo but only for cloning so my roots dont sit in the water personally i would use the hydrogen peroxide every 3 days at 11ml /gallon using the 3% stuff from the grocery store .. or if you use the food grade 35% 1 ml/gln the roots you have are pretty bad so im not sure theyre gonna ever look good but you might be able to spring new healthy roots... the hygrozyme i mention cuz it will also help with removing the dead roots they say (the manufacturer) you can use hygrozyme along with the peroxide but im not positive the peroxide doesnt have an effect on the hygrozyme.. supposably its an enzyme (not a beneficial bacteria) thus the peroxide doesnt harmm it if you wanted to go thru the trouble to keep them seperate.. add the perxide on replacing the res contents and then add the hygrozyme the next day for the remainder of the week and repeat the h202 (peroxide) will sterilze the roots and the water for a few hours,, killing the pathogens and it evaporates quick so the next day add the hygrozyme sometime the water source can have pathogens,, well water hasnt been chlorinated nor is RO water that came from a well... you can use a UV light or h202 or bleach or dutchmaster zone which is similar to bleach... the sm90 is a great product.. im not sure why theyy advertize the spreader/sticker aspect so much cuz its great for cleaning up roots and encouraging growth,, but not strong enough alone to fix your problem i would consider the sm90 as a preventitive option.. its got oils in it that i assume disrupt the bad bacteria i also suspect it has some root enhancing hormones cuz the effect on root growth is wow i have never actually used dutch master zone cuz i can by bleach much cheaper lmao basicly its a longer lasting form of chlorine.. only benefit over chlorine is that chlorine disapates rapidly and this product doesnt next issue will be bugs eating your dead roots and attacking your sickly plants so you might as well look at some serenade and maybe some biological misquito control (BMC same as gnatrol but liquid) if you get fungus gnats as for your design.. i dont think it has anything to do with the root issues except perhaps the issue of stagnent water with low o2 i use http://www.altgarden.com/hydroponics-testing/air-pumps/micro-pore-air-diffusers-4.html and a high quality high output air pump the above mention diffuser makes a big difference and lasts forever as long as you dont drop it and break it

If you can access the middle of the plant you can thin out the leaf branches as needed to improved the air circulation if needed. Remove a few completely or trim some back by half as needed. So much of adequate air circulation depends on local environment - dominant wind direction amount of wind/breeze, etc. - which is so different for all of us So if the amount of air circulation in your garden is minimal and prone to 'none' then yes some thinning will help. But if your garden is in an open area where there is a steady breeze blowing most of the time it is probably fine as is. Dave

So you have the Broan 6" MD6T and you have it unfiltered, unconditioned, and ouputting under the fridge for conditioning purposes? So you are relying on the exhaust heat of the fridge to cool the incoming air? How cold did it get this past winter for you? How cold was that make up air? Detectable at all? Here we had -20 real feel in NY with the wind chill at times. It was brutally cold and cold often. I think I might have to put in a heated MUA. So update on Broan. The lady I spoke to today was completely useless. To make a long story short she had absolutely no idea how to use the Make Up Air Specifier on her site. It was quite pathetic and my impressions of Broan's customer service = suck. I spoke to Dean at Electro Industries at length about all the factors I'm thinking about. We went over two options - one using the MA-10 (10kw all in one 10" heater with damper, blower, filter, and current detector to control blower speed) and the less expensive heater unit EM-WX1025R. The broan MD6T comes with a 24volt 20VA transformer so I could then use the one signal to turn on both the Broan damper and the heater unit. Both options unit can accomodate up to 637cfm in a 50 degree temperature rise. It's a 10kW unit though and would require a 50A or 60A two pole (240V) breaker and its own dedicated lines (of course). I can take care of the electrical so no problem there but man I'm guessing my heating bill (which was astronimical last year) will be more than I can tolerate this year. Temperature Rise Needed/CFM EM-WX1025R 10000 Watts 80/395 70/452 60/527 50/632 40/790 30/1054 MA-10 $1917 + freight EM-WX1025R $800 + freight. I think that should be sufficient - it's better to have 50 degree air coming in than 0 degree air. I'm thinking that maybe I can get away with non-heated air if I can get fresh air to come up that old supply register near the range. The opening is closer than the fireplace but it might work if I put a blower in-line as well.