Peach and Cherry tree problems, pictures, need advice please

13 years ago

Problems with peach and Cherry Trees:

We have 3 peach trees in the middle of a field. They are about 9-12 feet tall and 8-10 in around. They have fruit but we also see some clear orange yellow goo on some of the branches and few of the fruit. We have namy deer visitors all the time. There is also one of the trees that looks like the trunk has been eaten on the inside, the other two are in better condition. What do I need to spray? What do I do to get ready for next year? Do I remove the badly looking tree? If I need to plant new trees, what is the best location for peach trees? All the trees flowered and are bearing fruit.

Peach trees:

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Bad peach tree trunk:

Orange goo:

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Orange goo on peach

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healthy peaches:

We have 1 tart Cherry tree, i think. This year is flowered beautifully but few fruit yello pink and only a handful turned deep red. I noticed the same yellow looking goo on the trunk of the tree as well as a crack and what looks like the trunk tearing? Please help.

Cherry tree about 20 ft tall:

One side of tree tear with yellow goo:

Other side of tree:

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Comments (6)

franktank232
13 years ago
That peach tree looks pretty rough. I'd say bacterial canker and possibly borer? I'd think about replacing that peach at some point. Peaches aren't known to be long lived trees, especially with cold winters.
Michael
13 years ago
Deer do bad things to fruit trees in the winter especially between browsing and the bucks rubbing their antlers breaking branches and scraping up the trunks. The peach looks like history via bacterial canker possibly due to wounding from deer rubs or other offenses like borers.

The oozing fruit are either curculio (I guess) or Oriental Fruit Moth (my other guess). Start slicing into the fruit, you have many to practice on it appears, and try to get at an intact worm for I.D. and get some good pics. posted.

Don't know diddly about cherries. That long scrapish area made me think of lightening, do you ever get thunderstorms there? :-)
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To reiterate some points made above. Insectides should not be sprayed when trees are blooming, period (it's also illegal here in the US)! (I'd respectfully disagree with Beeone: when the tree is in bloom you should not spray with insecticide period, even at night; insecticides are designed to retain their lethal effect for quite a while and typically will remain extremely toxic to bees, which will alight on the flowers the next day and die.) This means that the combo-fruit tree sprays found in garden centers, which contain insectides as well as fungicides, should not be used when the trees are in bloom. I looked up Fruit Plus on line. It is a combo-spray, made up of the insecticide Phosalone and the fungicide Ferbam. If you read the instructions carefully -- and you should -- you will see that it should not be used when trees are in bloom. The label will tell you exactly when you should use it. I take it that the recommendation you mention was to use one of Fruit Plus, Ambush or Diazinon -- not all three at once! Of course, whether you need to spray will depend on your conditions. Here in Maryland, for example, if we do not spray at petal fall our stone fruit and apples will all be destroyed by plum curculio and/or oriental fruit moth. But I have no idea whether these are a concern in Canada where you are. Call your local extension service (or its equivalent) and see what kind of pest pressures are typical of your area. You might well be lucky and not have to deal with the pest pressures we have down in the Mid-Atlantic. Why mess around with toxic chemicals when you don't have to?
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cut all the dead wood out now to your lowest living bud. I put tangle foot on landscaping tape about two foot up on the trunk. That will keep the ants of the tree if there isn't any bridges like twine to steaks or other tree branches or such. The ants are protectors to the aphids because they like to eat the aphid honey doo. Without ants the ladybugs will eat them, and so will other good bugs. You need to figure out what kind of spray program you need. You should be spraying for fungus and bacterial canker at least a couple times a year. Best when applied right away after wet periods. Bacterial canker thrives in the warm moisture. You may have it already and that will cause die off on top too. look for split trunks and branches that have cracks. It might just be areas that look like sap is oozing out like bores. Fruit trees need to be taken care of in every season. I would mix up some water salable fertilizer and feed it now, but don't over feed it. Then mix in some 12 12 12 into the drip line of the trees on the ground. You need to get all that grass away from the drip lines and put some good mulch down. Mix the fertilizer into the mulch. Look up how to fertilize fruit trees on u tube. There is a formula that goes by trunk thickness. You know if your trees need to be fertilized by how long last years growth is. That's in those videos too. I watched every video I could find to figure out how to take care of my trees plus reading this forum. Its so much easier to watch someone.
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That damage looks a lot like my peach tree. I'm still a novice at identifying diseases, but I think it's a bacterial leaf spot. I've talked to a local nurseryman and he thinks the spots won't harm the tree too much this year, and there isn't any way to treat it now. I'll need to spray a copper fungicide (Kocide 3000 seems highly recommended) in the spring, before any leaves emerge. It might help, though most people recommend planting resistant varieties. I'm in WI, so it was important that I planted a hardy tree, so I went for a McKay peach. It came from the nursery with a canker (which I pruned out immediately), and I'm guessing that is where my bacterial leaf spot came from. I'd be glad to hear what more experienced peach growers think! Here is a link that might be useful: Bacterial leaf spot description
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OK..that's a easy fix, happens allot, tie the side branch, [active growing] toward the dead center, but not to break it. Next year cut the dead branch off. Might need some fertilizer.
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olpea
13 years ago
I agree with others, the peach tree looks pretty bad. You could leave it until you get other peach trees established, then cut it down. Cherry doesn't look bad to me.

Although I can't see the oozing peach in the picture, it is almost certainly oriental fruit moth, which will continue to claim peaches throughout the season. Open the peach up and look for larva tracks, or the larva.

What to spray? That depends on your goal, which I'm still unsure of.

As I recall you have something like 70 mature apple trees, which is more apples than any family can personally use, by a factor of about 10. So if you goal is to sell some of that fruit, I would steer you to commercial products, which are significantly cheaper than homeowner sprays.

For your immediate needs on the peach trees, Triazicide Once and Done concentrate or Permethrin, will control Oriental Fruit moth.
greenhousekendra
Original Author
13 years ago
Frank, Michael, olpea: Thank you. Do I spray the Triazicide Once and Done concentrate or Permethrin, will control Oriental Fruit moth as sson as possible or for next year?

I'll take some fruit and look for some evidence!

We are still not sure of our goal. This season we are going to take time to learn and see what we get. We will share with family, friends, and food pantries, and I think we may try roadside selling depending on the fruit.

I've tried contacting CSA's etc but they won't return calls or emails when they learn that this is our first year.
olpea
13 years ago
The insecticide is for this season, since you still have lots of good peaches.

Don't forget about Craigslist to sell your apples. There are also other websites that offer free advertising.

Buy local is pretty big right now.
alan haigh
13 years ago
Several insects will get the same oozing of pectin response in peaches and they don't all respond to the same spray regimen. You do need to know if it's from OFM or PC on one hand or stink bugs or tarnished plant bug on the other as the latter couple are more difficult to control with standard spray options.

My attitude about peaches is as long as they are giving you vigorous shoot growth as your picture suggests is happening, they are useful as they still produce as good a fruit as ever. Nothing wrong with having backups, and peach trees take very little time to replace, but no need to cut a productive tree down because its trunk is suffering from canker.

Peaches benefit from having a lot of grass and weed free soil during the first half of the growing season- they don't compete well with weeds are other trees. I like at least a 5' diameter mulched ring for them.

Peach and Cherry tree problems, pictures, need advice please

Comments (6)

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