Engineered Wooden Floor. Help Please!
CC in Ohio
4 years ago
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Milo Pompeii
4 years agoRelated Discussions
help please, engineering wood floor
Comments (21)"What is "sawn wear layers"? The wood is not engineering wood?" The wear layer is the top of the constructed board. Thick sawn refers to the thickness of the wear layer, compared to the thickness of the core plies. It is not engineered as defined what they specify engineered wood to be. Balance construction is one requirement. All plies are to be of the same species and the same thickness. The direction of the bottom of the board is to be oriented in the same direction as the top wear layer. An odd number of plies, meet this criteria. What is being constructed more and more, is a thick wear layer. it is bonded/laminated to thinner plies of differing species of wood, for cost, Some of the core plies are of very soft species of wood, with much different shrink and swell numbers. The thick wear layer shrinks and swells just like a solid wood. I see no cupping, which leads me to believe there is no moisture concern with the substrate. Substrate moisture would have taken less than a month to be noticed, and buckle the floor. High humidity and the ability for the concrete to be below dew point temperature.... That is why I asked if you have taken a vacation recently, turning the HVAC so it won't waste electricity while your not there....See MoreLike you cherry cab & engineered wood floor color combo? Please s
Comments (4)These are cherry cabnets with a ginger stain. We considered red oak but thought it looked like we were trying to match colors and didn't quite make it. Also DW didnt like the pore pronounced grain of oak and at $1.00 SQ. foot more Maple was affordable. http://i469.photobucket.com/albums/rr54/jaksown/DSC00933.jpg We decided on maple with Natural stain to add some red highlights but more of a subtle contrast. Floor looks lighter and less red in person. http://i469.photobucket.com/albums/rr54/jaksown/DSC00931.jpg This was wood planks sanded and stained in place so I dont know engineered prices except this was less expensive than prestained. We consideres a deeper stain on the Maple but didn't like the "blotchy" look that maple takes on with other than a natural stain....See MoreStruggling with engineered wood floor choice, please help!
Comments (11)R S, yes it felt smooth, but not "slick" smooth. It does have texture, but nothing like hand-scraped. You can feel the texture of the wood through the finish. I had the Lauzon wire-brushed sample and a sample of the Hamptons series "natural" white oak here at the same time. The Hamptons sample is not wire-brushed and has a semi-gloss finish. I could not feel the texture of the wood under that finish. They definitely felt different underfoot and Hamptons flooring was smoother feeling. The wire-brushed is really beautiful. I would not order a whole house full of flooring based on the sample, though, because I'm not quite sure it's a true depiction of the actual flooring. I've always believed that flooring companies use their very best material for the sample boards, so I'd want to look at a full box before committing. If you do get a box, be sure to post what it's like!...See MorePLEASE HELP, NEED HELP NOW! About putting in engineered wood flooring.
Comments (18)I prefer site finished. It is easier to refinish when it needs it. Your friend has probably done "buff and coat" procedures. This is normally done ONCE and then a FULL sand and refinish. If your friend has been doing the buff and coat MORE THAN once, then she's doing it "wrong" (could be "right" for her, but it isn't the regular way for hardwood). Traditionally the FULL sand and refinish occurs around the 20 year mark. So the floors, after 20 years SHOULD look like this. That's kinda what tells you "it's time". A buff and coat only adds a coat of finish (to freshen up the floor). It doesn't "correct" anything. The FULL sand and refinish will do 10 TIMES more for the look of the floor than a buff and coat. The sand/refinish will strip the old finish off and then carve off 1-2mm of WOOD. That means 99.9% of all dings and gouges will be taken care of. The "dirt and food in between" (the planks) is MUCH MORE likely to occur with factory finished floors. These floors have bevelled edges (a little shoulder on every plank that creates little valleys between each plank). But it can occur with floors SHRINKING from LOW humidity. The floor can create little gaps between planks. That's normal if the humidity is too low or is uncontrolled. The THINNER the plank, the LESS the wood will/can shrink. That's why narrow/strip hardwood is the BEST option for uncontrolled humidity. Those big, beautiful, expensive, wide plank products that are SUPER trendy = not an option for uncontrolled humidity. A factory finished hardwood (with Aluminum Oxide = AO) is going to be SUPER expensive to refinish and here's why. The AO finish is SOOOO tough (how tough is it SJ?). It is SOOOO tough it takes 2-3 TIMES the amount of effort/material to strip it from the wood floor. Once the AO is gone, the wood turns into a normal hardwood floor. And just for fun, the 'refresh' buff and coat is almost IMPOSSIBLE to do. Even the toughest finish looks tired around the 15 year mark. Sadly, AO finishes often prevent a recoat (the finish is chemically very slick...almost nothing sticks to it = HELL to add '1 coat'). The average cost of a full sand/refinish = $5/sf. The average cost of a sand/refinish of AO = $7-$9/sf. Yes. It is THAT TOUGH to remove. A traditional buff and coat = $2.50 - $3/sf. So if you do the math, the site finished hardwood may cost a bit more on day 1....but by year 30 it will be MUCH cheaper/easier to deal with/live with. It allows you to freshen up the finish around year 15 (if you wish). It allows for a routine sand/refinish without adding a HIGHER COST of labour. So "cost effective" today can be much more costly by the time you plan on refinishing. In fact, so many people look at the extra costs and figure a new floor is cheaper....and they are right. Sigh...so there goes the idea of using up all the life on the hardwood (3/4" solid hardwood). That goes out the window when the owner realizes the costs are much higher and they choose to rip it out and throw it out; thus negating the benefit of a solid hardwood!...See MoreCC in Ohio
4 years agoCC in Ohio
4 years agoJennifer Svensson
4 years agoOak & Broad
4 years agoJAN MOYER
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoHelen
4 years agoSJ McCarthy
4 years agoJennifer Svensson
4 years agoUnique Wood Floors
4 years agoUnique Wood Floors
4 years ago
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