Recommend Vent Hood Insert for 48" 1200CFM
M
4 years ago
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opaone
4 years agoRelated Discussions
36' 1200 CFM hood?
Comments (14)We have some very recent experience and observations I can share. We just put in a 36" Wolf Rangetop and decided to go with a 42" hood per the comments noted above. We also put in a 1200 CFM variable speed external blower. Our solution was an Abbaka liner and a broan external motor. In the end, it was a decision between modern aire and abbaka. It could have gone either way between those two companies. The prestige liner was in the running due to its large capture area BUT it had a few features we could not live with. One was the heigth of the unit. At the time we were selecting the liner, we were unsure if we were going to exhaust through the wall or the ceiling. It would not work going through the wall in our application. The other reason is look where the controls and lights are. They are at the top of the pyramid. Neither my wife or I wanted to have to put my arm up there every to adjust the lights, to turn on the fan or adjust the fan speed. Also, I would expect things to get greasy up there. I know you can get external controls and mount them on your wall but the grease on the lights etc was sufficient to make us look elsewhere. In the end, we are very happy with the results. The unit is MUCH quieter (and efficient which one would expect of the larger CFM) than the vent a hood we have in another house. The external motor is located a couple of feet above the liner so we were unable to put in a silencer but what a difference still. On all speeds you can easily talk in the kitchen and not have to talk over the fan noise. You can hear easily etc. On low/medium, its a low hum. Here's some pictures From finished kitchen From finished kitchen From 30 Nov...See MoreReasonably priced chimney 48"x25" deep/1200CFM wall hood?
Comments (6)What about Summit brand? Sales person from AJ Madison is recommending the Summit over the same price models from Broan or Zephyr. Maybe because the actually intake area is bigger on the Summit??? Summit Link Broan Link Zephyr http://www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin/ajmadison/BVEE36AS.html If you think I can get a much better unit for just $200 I can definetely go for it. But want to stay under $800. There is this other one by Zephyr: Link Kobes seem to be good, but are all over $1000. Thanks so much...See MoreWill a 1200 CFM blower be just as effective in 63" hood vs a 48" hood?
Comments (15)Unfortunately, most wall ovens do not have their own vent interfaces. What I did was put a pair of registers in the ceiling over the ovens, with their connecting ducts joined in a Y-adapter, and the output duct connected to a roof blower. The blower was a re-purposed NuTone down-blast roof blower purchased many years earlier to provide a boost to the vent of a Litton "kitchen center." The register boxes take (IIRC) 12 x 14 furnace filters to help keep grease particles from the ducts. Note that not even a commercial "eye-brow" hood will capture the smoke escaping a broiling oven when the door is opened. What these registers do is help pull effluent from the ceiling area and slowly clear the kitchen in concert with the main hood. The only way to successfully deal with opened ovens is a large hood right over them, or a commercial porous ceiling ventilation system, such as illustrated here: http://www.kitchen-ventilation.co.uk/heydal Yes, the MUA now becomes more complex because the control has to be "closed-loop" instead of "open-loop" and thus needs a servo control system to control an even larger MUA blower. My kitchen blowers' combined output is 2500 CFM (zero static pressure rating), and likely pull a total of 1500 CFM when there is sufficient MUA. With both blowers having variable control, the actual CFM can be anything, windows can be open or not, bathroom fans can run or not, etc., so the scheme is to control on differential pressure between my kitchen and the vented attic. Not all parts of this system have been purchased and integrated. My excuse is that my honey-do list is very long and keeps expanding. Items in place: Roof down-blast housing on pedestal for air intake interface with attic Hydronic heat exchanger in attic with its separate control loop to my furnace (functioning) 3-ft square diffuser in hallway facing kitchen Sensing system installed Control system components mounted in basement; Fuji computer purchased but not yet incorporated Key elements yet to be obtained (mostly from Fantech, I expect) Big axial blower sufficient to flow around 1500 CFM through the pressure losses of the ducting, air filter, and heat exchanger. It also has to fit through the attic access stairway. Current-loop control fan motor driver Pleated air filter box Damper Various sheet metal interface sections I should add that my only combustion appliance is a blown oil burner that has its own sealed MUA supply, so delay in completing this kitchen MUA system is an annoyance, but not a hazard. In your case, a carbon monoxide warning sensor is suggested. kas...See MoreHeated, passive MUA for 1200 cfm hood
Comments (10)@sarah hossain: I think furnaces are generally not designed for the MUA task. Adapting the MUA to the furnace would need to be well thought out with both flow rate, pressure loss, and heating analysis. Maybe the $$$ is related to all that they would have to do to make it work. I think your mud room plan is a good approach. Whether passive or active (with blower) depends on whether the combustion appliances have their own MUA. By "own" I mean that their air source is not also connected to the kitchen. Either deliberate MUA is brought to the appliance (may be passive but must be sealed), or to the utility room and the utility room closed off from the kitchen, air flow wise. Passive or active, you will need heating in Minnesota. I think if you can go passive I would get a Fantech or similar without a blower but with a heater Is Your hood 600 CFM rated? If so, the actual flow may be only 400 CFM. In either case, the heating has to have the capability of the chart I provided for your temperature extremes. If the MUA system is in the garage, it must be ducted to the roof or somewhere well away from any automotive exhaust. It also should take air up wind of the hood exhaust and any chimney effluent. I believe I have read here that Fantech uses hood blower current as an estimate of air flow rate and runs their MUA blower accordingly. They may have other schemes. With additional exhaust fans (5 x 80 CFM maybe), you can compete with the hood. So if appliance MUA is difficult, then you may need pressure sensing in the house to control the kitchen MUA so the appliances don't back-draft. There was another supplier of MUA mentioned here that showed a design (mounted in the attic in their illustration) that was based on pressure sensing, but I can't presently find a link or paper in my data. I will add that if the existing auxiliary blowers are not back-drafting the appliances, then it may be simplest and still safe to use the Fantech and scale it to just deal with just your hood....See MoreM
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