As long as you're not leaving it on the same spot for days at a time, the grass should be fine - a little matted maybe, but fine. Any change of color should bounce back pretty quickly.

I live in the city, have a small lawn in front of my condo building that I maintain -- probably 10 ft x 40ft. I do not own a dog, but live in a very dog-friendly neighborhood. I would estimate we have 100+ different dogs walk by our building each day. Many of them like to stop to pee, as I take care of my hard and it is by far one of the nicest patches of grass around. You might think dog owners would notice that and try to keep their dog from peeing on the grass (when there are obviously dead spots from other dogs), or what irritates me even more is when the dog digs up the grass. We have a tree with a circle of dirt and pavers around it, and I posted a sign asking for the dogs to pee on the tree. I don't expect every dog owner to be able to control their dog to abide by that request, but the majority of people don't even bother to try. What I find most odd is how many people own dogs, and now with covid I see many fewer dog walkers, but the owners don't seem to pay attention to their dogs. Why do you have a dog and then act like you don't want it? I cannot control these dog's diets, I cannot control how much water they have (many are likely dehydrated because the owners don't want them to pee in their house). I cannot give them the various supplements recommended here. I do not fertilize the yard, and only occasionally do I use organic manure -- most of the time it sells out before I can buy it in the spring. The sugar trick sounds promising, I will give that a try. I also heard elsewhere that ammonia in a plastic bottle with some holes poked in it can allow the dogs to smell the ammonia might prevent them from wanting to pee to mark the area, so I will also try that. Plastic bottles filled with water aren't very practical to put around my yard -- and it would just look like trash, but I see how it might work for a garden area with different types of plants. I was hoping for something that I could treat the grass with that might last a few weeks.

Do you happen to live to the northeast of Springfield...sort of near that gigantic limestone quarry? I have a feeling that you could apply 1,000 pounds of sulfur per square inch from now on and never change your pH enough to make a difference. First you would have to dissolve all the limestone. Which means you'll have to adjust your expectations a little - but not much. When iron hits calcium at high pH numbers, the iron binds to the calcium and will not release to the plants. When the pH drops a little the iron is released and available to the grass. I'm an organic kind of guy so the first thing I look at is what the soil microbes can do for you. When they are well fed they can acidify the soil right at the root zone. That's where you need it. But when you get a gully washer of a rain storm, the excess water will wash that acidity out leaving you with something like what you have. We get that in Texas (limestone quarries everywhere). If you have something like we have then in the spring you will never know it was yellow. Something happens in the soil over the winter to release the iron. My belief is the microbes are busy acidifying the soil. It happens every year, so it's nothing I've done. One product we use down here to counteract the effect of the rain washing through is to apply green sand. Green sand is a complex assortment of minerals that has the consistency of sand and a dark olive drab color - hence the name. At a rate of 40 pounds per 1,000 square feet it will correct the soil and green up the grass. I would not use it at this time of year, because I'm certain your lawn will look great in April regardless of anything you try now. But keep that in the back of your mind. Your normal fertilizer schedule should be once in May, once in September, and once after the grass stops growing in the fall. Keep that in mind when talking to lawn maintenance companies. Weeding should be done on an individual basis. That means they spot spray the weeds and DO NOT apply a broadcast type of herbicide over the entire lawn. In addition to what the company applies, I would encourage you to apply at lease one dose of an organic fertilizer. On this and many other forums we use raw animal feed like soybean meal, corn meal, alfalfa pellets (rabbit sized), cottonseed meal, or whatever kind of ground up nut, bean, or seed you can find at your local feed store. The application rate is 15 - 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. What this does is feed the microbes living in your soil. If they are not happy, then you will not be happy with your lawn. Once a year is enough, but I use it exclusively about 5 times per year. You can do what you want with that. Most of the serious grass gurus in the forums are 90-100% organic with fertilizer. You said you did not over or under water. Since you were just establishing a new lawn I'll let that go. As the weather warms up in the spring, you should water approximately once in March and April. In May, as the temps get into the 70s go to once every 3 weeks. When the temps get into the 80s go to once every 2 weeks. When it's in the 90s all week, go to once per week. When you water apply a full inch all at one time. Set out some tuna or cat food cans and time how long it takes your sprinklers to fill all the cans. That is your watering time. Mine takes 8 hours but my neighbor's high flow system takes only 20 minutes. Your time likely will be between those extremes. That time will be how long you water EVERY time you water from now on. That's the secret to infrequent watering and infrequent watering is the secret to having very few weeds. DO NOT LET ANYONE TALK YOU INTO WATERING A LITTLE BIT EVERY DAY. Here's an incentive picture for you on that topic. The picture was taken in July. Most everyone waters once a day except one.

Hi guys - Thought you might like to see the results after following your suggestions. Who says you can't grow Kentucky Bluegrass in Southern Utah at 6,000 ft. elevation? It's thick, it's plush, it's beautiful. I'm watering now every 3rd day through this heat (95+) and wind (15-25 mph) but staggering the watering at 3:30 4:30 5:30 a.m. to drop a total of 1". I'm sure I can cut that down to once a week this fall and in subsequent years. The areas that are still challenging area along the hardscape and have rock or some hard construction substance under them, but even those areas look 100% improved. I've used shampoo 1/week for 4 weeks at 3 oz. per 1,000. Thank you again for getting me over the hump. Woo hoo.